I’m a new member to the site and I’m unaware of the rules regarding posting/reviving old articles.
I’ve been unsuccessful in searching for the info on a p229 DAK in 40. That I’ve been looking for.
I purchased this firearm new in 2008 I believe and Never had a single issue with it. It’s been sitting in the safe for years(7?) and I took it out this week and encountered a issue where the it doesn’t strike had enough to fire the round when the trigger is in the lighter pull. Hammer will be partially back and when I pull the trigger it doesn’t go boom. I’ve noticed it will fire every time when the trigger is reset to the heavier pull(every other trigger pull).
Only thing different from the last time I fired it is I put light weight metal grips(sold by sig during the same timeframe).
It does strike the primer hard enough to show a indent but not hard enough to ignite. Tried it out with 3 different ammos. I cleaned the pistol before I went and checked the firing pin it seems to be moving with no resistance.
Any ideas to what this could be? Old springs? Those grips possibly?
|My other Sig|
is a Steyr.
Hello, Our most recent DAK discussion can be found here.
If you work the action with one side of the grip removed, does it appear that anything drags the mainspring?
Good luck and welcome to the forum!
Welcome to the forum.
I just noticed your post and opened it because you mentioned a DAK pistol. This section doesn’t get as much activity as others.
Although double posting is frowned on here, I suspect you’d be okay with asking the question in the Pistols section. Just be sure to make the title informative. I don’t even open threads that consist of a single word like “P229.” What I’d recommend would be something like “DAK P229 fail to fire question.”
But to address your problem.
First to ensure I understand, the lighter pull weight is when the trigger is fully forward, as when taking our finger off the trigger entirely so it resets to its normal rest position. Is that when you have the failures to fire? Does it fire okay when the trigger is reset to the shorter position and not allowed to go fully forward?
Also, what ammunition are you using?
Thanks for the welcome. It seems as though nothing is dragging the main spring in the grip although the clearance IS LESS than with normal factory grips.
I’ve noticed people speak of this mainspring being replaced with a red one at some point in production. I have said red spring.
It seems as though when the hammer works it’s full range of motion(it’s almost flush) it fires. The next round when hammer is partly cocked does not fire. The next round after that goes off(hammer flush again. Then rinse and repeat.
I release trigger completely each time. I thought me half pulling may have been the problem but no.
I used American eagle, blazer brass and some Winchester white box. All ammo functioned the with the same results. I’ve never had a malfunction until this issue.
May I have left it sitting in this cocked position for years in my safe weakening a spring or something?
I’ll try reinstalling the original grips to remove that as a possible problem.
Thanks for the responses and help.
If you release the trigger fully forward after each successful shot and it doesn’t fire then, but you pull the trigger again at that point and it does fire, you’re just hitting the primer with a second strike. A second strike is very often successful when the first wasn’t hard enough to fire the round. That in itself doesn’t necessarily tell us what the problem is.
That said, it just seems to me that there is a problem with the power of the mainspring. Why it would lose that much power just sitting, I don’t know, but it could be a defective spring. I would think that if the grip plates were contacting the spring and interfering with its action, it would be relatively obvious, but perhaps not. Is there any sign of contact between the spring and the grip: paint wear on the spring or paint transfer to the grip plate(s)?
Changing back to the original grip plates would be the best first step, I believe. If the problem persists, I’d get a new red mainspring.
Originally DAK P220, P226, and P229 pistols were equipped with the same mainspring as DA/SA models, but it wasn’t too long before the red, higher power spring was adopted. I suspect that was because misfires occurred with the original lighter springs, and probably in the short trigger reset mode. In that mode the mainspring isn’t compressed quite as much as in the full reset mode.
Then another possibility is that the firing pin isn’t moving freely. If lube or solvent was allowed to enter the firing pin channel and built up and/or thickened, that is a common problem, especially with Classic line SIGs whose firing pins are difficult to remove and clean. I witnessed that myself with a friend’s P226. A sometime fix is to flush out the channel with a “scrubber” type product that doesn’t leave a residue. Spray it into the channel through the firing pin hole in the breech face and/or through the extractor opening and let the solvent drain out the back of the slide. (This would actually be my second step after reinstalling the original grip plates.)
A final possibility I can think of is that the hammer movement is being slowed. That could be due to a gummed-up action due to the lube that was applied a while back having congealed. If it was a proper gun lube that’s also unlikely, but not impossible. A full detail strip and application of new lubricant might help.
Well. Took her apart to see about gunk buildup and came away proud of my younger self for keeping it so clean.
Took this grips off and I’m out here now and she’s going off without a hiccup as I remember. Must be the grips which is odd I bought them from sig but oh well. Maybe I can grind them and get them on. They look nice.
Would the main spring be the only thing being impeded by said grips?
Thanks for your help with the situation
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