I went out for my first range session shooting handloads that I made and my .223 reloads did better than I expected but my .243 rounds had issues. The first .243 round was shot without incident but I couldn't get any of the other reloads to function in that the bolt would rotate closed about 25% of the rotation and then it got pretty tough to close. Not being sure how much force I could or should use to close the bolt I just called it a day and packed up. I'm assuming that I have an issue with my shoulders but I could use some guidance on how to verify this and how to fix it.

Thanks.

This is not uncommon. Had this happen to me on my first 300 B/O reloaded rounds and I followed the process below and it fixed my issue.

Gonna say it is due to your loaded rounds needing a little more shoulder set back. The other thing to check the OAL on your loaded rounds but I am betting it is the shoulder.

If you do not have one get a good quality case gauge.

You can set the shoulder back without having to disassemble each round by turning your resizing die down a quarter turn at a time. First - Remove the de-prime and internal resize assembly and then carefully run a couple of rounds through the resizing die and then check to see if they allow the bolt to close without force. If not turn the die down another quarter turn and repeat the process.

Also check you overall case length (without bullet).
Trim to correct length as listed in manual if they haven't been trimmed.

PC

Yes to the above. I usually check at least a few loads at home, for chamber fit(safely).

Just to back up, I 1st check max COL so the bullet isn’t jammed into the rifling. I doubt that’s the problem. I’m sure you have checked empty cases for proper trim length?

At least with a bolt gun it’s all easier for you. Having that tight round get fed into a semi-auto action can really ruin your range day.

Right now I’m loading up some 22-250 rounds, either of two guns. I don’t mind just a little bolt firmness as the round goes in, just a little.

I checked the max COL and I’m under that and I’m fairly confident that I checked all of the casing lengths before I loaded them so my assumption is that it’s the shoulder.

The only other odd detail that may or may not be related is that I have had one factory Winchester round that does the same thing. I did order some Lyman case gauges so Monday we’ll have another piece of the puzzle figured out.

Thanks to everyone for the knowledge and guidance.

IMO the very first thing you buy when setting up for a new bottle neck cartridge is a Case Gage. Then you can order up the reloading dies.

Because as you have just discovered without a case gauge what you make can be 100% useless.

Note, fire forming cases to the chamber is something that can provide for a slight increase in accuracy but if you do this you may find that at some point your case can check as "long" but still fit just fine in your rifle. Because chambers do wear and headspace can get longer in time. However once you find a point where the bolt starts to drag you should measure the deviation shown with your Case Gauge and call that the point where a full length sizing is required. BTW, this a particular procedure that I will NOT use for ammunition to be used in a Semi because jammed bolts are just not fun. Also be aware that you need to watch for a ring forming in the case wall a bit down from the case head. This ring is an indicator of excessive case stretch and any cases with a ring should be discarded immediately.

I bought a case gauge and I think I may have a chamber issue on my rifle.

When I originally purchased and tested the rifle over a year ago I had a single round of Winchester Ballistic Silvertip that wouldn't chamber. I chalked it up to a fluke round and kept the round for a memento.

After checking some of my handloads today with the case gauge they all seemed to be at the larger end of the spectrum but still within the limits of the case gauge.

I then went back to the remainder of the box of Silvertips and started feeding the remaining rounds through the rifle. They all fed but one of them had the bolt feeling a little tight on closure. I then threw the old "bolt won't close" round in the case gauge and it was flush with the max length indicator, then the "bolt is snug" round in the case gauge and it was below the max length indicator, and finally the "bolt is smooth" round in and it was noticeably lower than the max length indicator.

I also checked the case length of the loaded Silvertip rounds and I'm coming up with:
2.040 (bolt won't close)
2.044 (bolt is tight but will close)
2.040 (bolt closes fine)

Am I correct in thinking that my rifle may have a chamber that is a few thousandths smaller than what it should be or where should I look to next for figuring out what my issue is?

So the bolt won’t close on certain factory ammo? If so, that would be very suspect, rather unlikely too.

What make of gun? You bought it new?

Here’s another way to test it. Get a new empty case, trim to length, champher/ debur, load a bullet(ideally after measuring the chamber for max COL). That round should easily slide in.

If you ever contact the factory, they don’t want to hear your reloads don’t fit, they’ll only care if factory ammo doesn’t fit.

If you bought the gun used, the previous owner may of messed up something.

While case gauges are useful and very relevant, at the insistence of the guy who dragged me kicking and screaming into the world of precision shooting I moved to headspace and bullet comparators.

Two components are necessary:

- Headspace comparator
- digital caliper

Put your comparator on the calipers, then put the unsized case in the comparator orifice and zero out the caliper. Size some, and check against the original size you saved until you get your 0.02" or whatever your preference is of shoulder bump. You can also approximate it the way I have in the past by testing in the gun then bumping the shoulder until you get a smooth close. Either way, check oal to make sure it stays at or below trim length.

For the utmost accuracy, I'd add a bullet comparator and seating depth gauge (and associated modified cases). This lets you know what your max CBTO (cartridge base to give) is, which can help you dial in your seating depth more accurately - CBTO can give you a much more accurate read of how far you are from the lands.

I have a Mitutoyo caliper. I also wood/metalwork as a hobby. You can just as easily do this with a cheaper brand.

I noticed the same thing with some first time handloads on my newly built 6.5 Creedmoor (I'd just abbreviate 6.5cm but then comes the centimeter jokes, ).

It was only for a few but from what I can tell I need to look at the shoulder bump or the bottom of the case.
This was just yesterday so I haven't fully investigated yet but I did see a video that said to take a FL 308 die sans the insert first then the 6.5 resizing die.
I was mostly sighting in and breaking it in, love the round though.
It wasn't bad and it did close with a tug and it shot fine.

I have all the Comparator tools so going to have to figure it out.
Interesting lesson here anyway.

do you over cam on your resizing die? I had that issue with my 223 they just were not sizing the whole case soon as I overcamed the reloader this worked so much better case gauge them all and trim.

quote:

Originally posted by XLT:
do you over cam on your resizing die? I had that issue with my 223 they just were not sizing the whole case soon as I overcamed the reloader this worked so much better case gauge them all and trim.

Yeah, I have it set up that way. I may just have to focus on keeping my sizing towards the minimum side of things instead of the maximum as that appears to solve the problem (at least as much as I can tell).

The Sheridan slotted case gauges are IMHO the best answer to any chambering issues when reloading…they are somewhat pricey compared to other common case gauges and often out of stock…but they have solved problems and answered questions for me …their being the minimum SAMMI spec and by allowing you the advantage of viewing your brass fit in real-time is a plus available with no other case gauges that I know of…I have one for every rifle cartridge I reload for…

https://sheridanengineering.co...lk-ammunition-gauge/

Another thing, I didn’t see brand of dies mentioned. I’m not a ‘die snob’, plenty of Lee, then RCBS & Hornady.

I realize they go higher, but at my level, I put Redding up the list of what I normally use. I will often mix & match, several die brands of the same cartridge. This is even before talk of ‘small base’ dies, another discussion.

It wouldn’t hurt to try a resizing die of a different brand. As to the resizing itself, look at factory ammo, has to fit any gun. Yes, sizing a little more than necessary can work the brass, but it’s paramount the rounds chamber.

Yes, slightly older thread, just general musings.

Amen to Bisleyblackhawk's preference for the Sheridan slotted case gauges. Most all of my others are in the surplus/junk box as the Sheridans are made to tight tolerances. I find them to be admirable after spending many years in and around high precision machining and the measurement of the products thereof. Think of optics and wavelengths of light level tolerances.

I often check components and lesser gauges with top drawer Mitutoyo instruments (and gauge blocks) to the ten-thousandth. Possibly only because I have them and being retired I like the warm and fuzzy comfort of knowing that whatever errors occur aren't due to tooling dimensions' tolerances chosen perhaps with different objectives than mine and thus which may not deliver the conformity consistent with those I seek for a particular component's dimension.

Each mfr's gauges have their own intrinsic tolerances. I have spoken a few times with mfrs of case gauges about such before purchase while also knowing that every machining operation has its own built-in objectives(such as managing the higher cost of greater machining accuracy) and issues which can force possible design compromises and/or shortfalls for picky users. Not everyone owns Hardinge lathes. IMHO the Sheridan gauges are terrifically improved designs, and precision made. The 'proof' is in the pudding!

quote:

Originally posted by Bisleyblackhawk:
The Sheridan slotted case gauges are IMHO the best answer to any chambering issues when reloading…they are somewhat pricey compared to other common case gauges and often out of stock…but they have solved problems and answered questions for me …their being the minimum SAMMI spec and by allowing you the advantage of viewing your brass fit in real-time is a plus available with no other case gauges that I know of…I have one for every rifle cartridge I reload for…

https://sheridanengineering.co...lk-ammunition-gauge/

Now those are cool. I’ve wondered more than once when a case was too large what was actually hitting first and causing the issue. Thanks for the heads up on those.

OP, did you ever figure out the issue?

put a light coat of fingernail polish on 1) the bullet ogive, and 2) the case shoulder. Push the cartridge in, pull it out and look at the polish. If the nail polish on the bullet ogive is buggered, your bullet is hitting the rifling lands or forcing cone, meaning you need to increase the bullet seating depth (if possible other things being equal). If the nail polish on the case shoulder is buggered, your case head to shoulder resize die is set too high, lower it and repeat.

In no case should you force it closed. The resulting internal ballistics could get wonky on you and damage the gun, injure you, or worse. Esp. in 243 Win, that's a necked down 308 shooting a 25 caliber bullet, that's a pretty high pressure round depending on how you load it. You should fix it before you pull the trigger.

Just to get this working, you don't need to spend more $ on go/no go gauges, case length or oal gauges etc. Those things are nice to have, but not really needed unless you're working on precision shooting or just enjoy the tech aspects of reloading.