I finally got all my stuff and am ready to set dies and go. Dillon 650 with Dillon carbide dies.

The load:
147gr 9mm Berry’s plated round nose
Blazer Brass
WIN SPP
CFE Pistol 3.7gr and going up to 4.2gr
1.14 oal to start

Data is a joy as as Hodgdon lists 3.7 to 4.2 and Speer 4.1 to 4.7 for the same powder using an XTP and GDHP respectively.

The only concern I have at this point is crimp and oal variation. These will be shot from a variety of 9mm guns, primarily Glocks. Is there a measurable way to set the crimp? For the oal length, as long as it’s above 1.10 min will there be any pressure issues? My goal is 900ft/s to stay above the 125 min power factor for USPSA.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Riley,

If shooting a 5" gun you will see a bit more velocity than the data. Crimping plated bullets requires a light crimp. Measure with you calipers right on the case mouth when the bullet is seated. For plated and lead, mine measure at .378", light enough so as not to leave a crimp groove in the soft plated bullet. Like Autocomp, CFE burns a bit dirty on the lower charges. In my M&P Pro 5" guns, 3.4-3.5 gr CFE @ 1.130-1.140(depends on your chamber, do the plunk test Using your barrel to get correct seat depth). Start there and check thru a chronograph. While you only need about 880 fps to be safe for PF, I find that 147's are most accurate at 900 or near that. My current Accuracy load for USPSA is 145 gr LRN on top of 4.5-4.6 gr of HS-6, PF of 132ish. Dirty dang powder but stupid accurate and knocks down steel with authority.

I just found my notes : 147 gr LRN, 3.7 gr CFE Pistol, Avg= 965 fps. My HS-6 load at a chrono stage had a avg at 945+. Hope this helps.

Thanks!

I’m shooting a G17 for now so 4.5” barrel or so. I’m glad to hear that it thumps steel. I’ve been shooting factory ammo, Blazer Brass 124gr FMJ RN and its not all that authorative. I want to make min pf plus some for error, a chrono is on the list.

Berrys says to use data for lead/cast bullets, or low speed FMJ data so your info helps.

I'm sure you guys are talking about taper crimp here, not roll crimp; the 9mm headspaces on the mouth of the case.

Nikon, yes sir good point to bring up. This is not always clear to the new reloader.

Yep, Dillon taper crimp.

I only ended up with a 3.8 and 4.0 charge for now and bumped the COL to 1.135 as 1.14 would not fit comfortably in the Shield chamber. Too late to shoot tonight.

Went smooth except for some Win once fired brass that wouldn’t feed into the press, it would hang up half way into the green funnel section. The rest was once fired Blazer Brass and fed fine.

I need a thinner 1” wrench so it’s easier to fit and tighten the dies, more light, add a primer drop tube for spent primers and probably the roller handle.

Overall, I’m very happy I bought the 650 vs the 550. The 550 would have been easier to set, but I think the output of the 650 will suit me better in the long run. I’ve already decided to buy a new tool head assembly for the next caliber I load for to make it easier to set up so I can leave the dies set.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Riley,

quote:

Originally posted by TRshootem:
Crimping plated bullets requires a light crimp. Measure with you calipers right on the case mouth when the bullet is seated.

I find this very hard to do. A slight movement of the calipers up, or down, results in different measurement on a taper crimp. How do you determine with accuracy the real taper crimp size? I have found that using the Redding Micrometer adjustable taper crimp die to be the most accurate. Cost more?, yes, but much easier to deal with.
 
ETA, a new technique (new to me) I have been using to measure the taper crimp is to set a micrometer to the desired crimp size, and then adjust the die until very end of the shell that has been crimped passes into the micrometer opening.
 
 

This message has been edited. Last edited by: henryaz,

I had decent results measuring the crimp, but not enough to rely on. I crimped a couple dummy rounds until they cleared the case gage and barrel fit test. I then cycled the dummies through the pistol a couple times to ensure I didn’t get any set back.

So far, so good. Tomorrow is test fire day if the weather holds.

The 147s are noticeably softer shooting. Quieter too it seems.

The 3.8gr loads were very soft in both the Glock and Shield but I had a couple empties almost dribble out of the Glock, so I switched to the 4gr. Those ejected better though a few landed on my arms and chest. In comparison, the Blazer 124gr chucked them back and right.

After I finished up the 4.0 load, I went back to the 3.8 and had a squib. I’m sure it was an empty case though by the sound and recoil and the slide didn’t move. By luck, it was the last round in the magazine. Embarrassing and ended the session, I had some factory loads I was going to shoot to make more of a trip out of it but I didn’t have tools with me.

I have better lighting and a powder check die on order, maybe a mirror to see inside the case. I’m currently on the quest for a chrono as well.

Henry: I am certain your taper die works well, just not practical to use on my Dillon 550's and multiple pistol calibers. Using the caliper for measurement is simply a way set the die to a value that accomplishes two goals. First is to set so the plated, coated or lead bullets are not crimped too much or too little based on a drop test(aka Plunk) of the loaded round in the barrel(removed from firearm). This also helps determine if the bullet is seated deep enough to not engage the rifling and have best reliable function. Once the adjustment meets the above requirements, the die will insure repeatable results.

TR, what lead bullets are you shooting?

quote:

Originally posted by Riley:

I’m shooting a G17 for now so 4.5” barrel or so.

.

Factory recoil spring?

G17/147's at a similar PF to your load and my grip, 13lb spring works best for me.

Yes, factory spring.

Do I need a different striker spring as well? I’m looking into a ISMI recoil spring.

Lighter striker spring will reduce trigger pull weight. If that's a interest, try a 4lb Wolff.

Suggest to try both 13 and 15lb ISMI recoil springs.

Have fun!

Thanks! I ask about the striker spring as some reading had me concerned about firing out of battery with the lighter recoil spring based on the way it was explained in the reading. I’m not sure it’s an issue and I’m not really looking to lighten the trigger though.

The lighter spring will wear out faster, not go into battery. I've replaced the 13lb recoil spring twice on one of my G17's, guessing 5K rounds? Springs are cheap! Comp gun, not carry.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w3UVLm2GajI

Different gun...but a good video on tuning springs to load.

Riley: I use 145 LRN or the coated version from summersenterprisesllc.com. Very nice product at hard to beat prices. He is a USPSA shooter as well. Offgrid is on the money regarding springs, I use a 13 lb in my M&P 9L Core, Carry Optic. Also using a bit heavier guide rod. Nicer recoil impulse and faster dot pickup Aging eyes...I'll be a Super Senior this year

What guide rod and springs do you like? Gen 4 Glock 17.

http://jagerproducts.com/index..._page=index&cPath=35

This one has worked well for me. No problem with the captured style.

Can't imagine there's a performance difference between Wolff and ISMI springs. I'm using ISMI, that's what a local shop carries.