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I looked around the internet and could not find the answer, so came here. The reason for the question is I have a Marlin 1894 in 357 mag coming my way. The majority of the 38 Special ammo I have looks is FMJ that is taper crimped with no cannelure(Norma, PPU). I’m a bit hesitant to use these bullets in the lever action in fear of bullet set back. If it’s possible to get a lee crimp die and recrimp the factory ammo, that may be the solution. Maybe it’s not possible since the bullet lacks the cannelure. Eventually, I would like to reload the cartridge but need to burn thru this stockpile as well. ThanksThis message has been edited. Last edited by: ugeesta, We will never know world peace, until three people can simultaneously look each other straight in the eye Liberals are like pussycats and Twitter is Trump's laser pointer to keep them busy while he takes care of business - Rey HRH. | ||
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Member |
To me, one would have to break down completely the ammo that you have, add a cannalure(they sell a tool) to the bullet, and then purchase a roll crimp die and reload the ammo. In other words.....not worth the effort, to me. To try to re-crimp the factory ammo will likely loosen the bullet in the case. | |||
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Member |
OP - I do not know the answer to your question but one might think that if a round is taper crimped that in a single process that loaded round could be carefully roll crimped. I was not aware (but ready to learn) that a cannalure is required to roll crimp a piece of brass into a piece bullet, but I understand the reasoning behind GT-40’s comment/thoughts on this requirement. Adding a roll crimp is basically taking the top most area of the brass opening and ever so slightly rolling the brass inward to allow it to “bite” into the bullet ever so slightly more than a taper crimp. The only thing I would question would be if a bullet contained a taper and a roll crimp, could this cause excessive pressure because there are two areas of resistance. Curious to learn more on the OP’s question. | |||
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I THINK you will be all right, even an uncannelured bullet in new brass should have good bullet pull. But you can check, push a bullet against the wall, bench edge, floor, or the bathroom scale if you want a number. If the bullet doesn't set back, shoot it. Test in the gun; load it up, shoot one, eject one, shoot one, eject one. Are the ones that have been under the magazine spring and recoil set back? If not, carry on. | |||
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Uppity Helot |
Probably the factory new ammo will have adequate neck tension and not set back when you load the tube mag. Probably your worry will not come to fruition. If the PPU/Norma does set beck, You are better off with either: Buying ammo that features a cannelured bullet like the Federal 158 grain JSP loading. Or Buy a cannelure cutting tool, like the one made by CH4D and cut a cannelure into the case of the factory rounds. Average the overall length of 10 loaded cartridges. Then, Pull a bullet and determine the overall length of the bullet. Next subtract the oal of the bullet from the cartridge, take this length and subtract a few thousandths (probably 10 thousandths) to account for minor variations in cartridge seating depth. This final number should be a good spot to cut the cannelure in the factory cartridge. It will only be a few thousandths away from the base of the factory loaded bullet but will not allow for set back beyond that point. | |||
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This Space for Rent |
Thanks for the response. Think I will check a batch to 40lbs on the bathroom scale. If they pass, should be good to go. If not, revolver loads only. Thanks. We will never know world peace, until three people can simultaneously look each other straight in the eye Liberals are like pussycats and Twitter is Trump's laser pointer to keep them busy while he takes care of business - Rey HRH. | |||
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You for sure can shoot them single-shot without any problems. Open action and drop one in, or load one via the loading gate and chamber it....shoot it....eject and repeat. Maybe this is over safety, but you do not want a kaboom, for sure. | |||
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Make sure they are really FMJ and not plated. | |||
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If it's the common 130 grain FMJ that people seem to like because it's the cheap ammo option, I'd be more concerned with the bullet nose profile in a tubular magazine than I would with bullet crimp. | |||
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Previous poster is correct, a factory taper compression crimp should be gtg for a tube fed lever gun. I would not however take a factory taper crimp and run it through a roll crimp die, it might actually disturb the taper crimp and release the bullet grip, and might actually be worse afterward, particularly if the bullet used in the factory cartridge doesn't already have a cannelure. Your best bet is probably to look on some lever gun action shooting websites, in their reloading section, and see what those guys are doing. They shoot a metric shit ton of all kinds of straight wall cartridges from low pressure to medium pressure, and they probably already know the answer. Lover of the US Constitution Wile E. Coyote School of DIY Disaster | |||
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