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Yeah, that M14 video guy... |
I've fully converted to wet tumbling. I enjoy the clean brass, inside and out, and I enjoy the fact that there's no more dusty mess. I use Imperial sizing die wax, a Redding bushing die and Imperial dry neck lube when sizing my super-clean cases. I wipe the cases clean of the wax and the outside of the neck, but don't touch the inside of the neck after sizing. Do I still need to apply some sort of neck lube when seating bullets, or is the residual imperial dry lube left over from sizing sufficient? I've got some real good neck tension when seating my bullets. So far, they are very consistent and tight enough for semi-auto. I use a Redding competition seating die. Tony. Owner, TonyBen, LLC, Type-07 FFL www.tonybenm14.com (Site under construction). e-mail: tonyben@tonybenm14.com | ||
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Member |
That's a new one on me. I've never lubed the inside of a case to seat a bullet. I would say that it's not necessary, but maybe I've been doing it wrong all these years. | |||
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| Yeah, that M14 video guy... |
The argument I've seen posted before is that dry tumbling leaves carbon inside the cases and the carbon acts as a barrier between the brass necks and copper bullets. Since stainless/wet bumbling cleans the outside and inside of the cases to like-new condition, the two metals are so clean that it causes excessive neck tension, or even a bonding effect between the bullet and case neck when seated. As a result, I've seen recommendations of dry graphite lube in the necks. When I size my brass, I use the sizing wax on the main body and stop at the base of the shoulders. I leave the shoulder dry and I dip the necks in beads coated in graphite powder. I size my brass and wipe the outside of the cases. Tony. Owner, TonyBen, LLC, Type-07 FFL www.tonybenm14.com (Site under construction). e-mail: tonyben@tonybenm14.com | |||
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I do mine the same way with the Imperial wax & graphite coated beads. Since wet tumbling though, I've primarily been loading powder coated cast bullets for 300 BO as well as pistol loads. Haven't loaded many jackets, but I would think that the graphite from sizing would still reside inside the case neck. | |||
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Anecdotal with hard data to back these claims up. I wet tumble as well as I enjoy super shiny brass and super clean primer pockets. And anneal every firing. I use Imperial Sizing wax prior to full length sizing using a Whidden FL die with bushing. I don't worry too much with lubing the inside of the neck. After primer seating and powder charge, I dip the lower 3rd of the bullet in Redding Dry neck lube prior to seating. Data showed my SDs when from 12-15 down to 2-5 on a usual basis. Accuracy at distance also improved. Theory holds that the wet tumbling removes any/all residual carbon on the interior of the neck. This usually give a degree of lubrication to ensure consist neck release during firing. So by using the dry neck lube, one is returning a degree of lubrication. Just my $0.02. But it takes a couple of seconds to dip the bullet and documented improvement convinced me it is worthwhile. Andrew Duty is the sublimest word in the English Language - Gen Robert E Lee. | |||
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| Yeah, that M14 video guy... |
Wonderful! I my SD's have been between 14 and 20. But then again, I was working up a load and wasn't sorting brass by weight or water capacity yet. I've narrowed down the powder charge, so my last batch of brass was sorted by weight. I'll see how it turns out before I start measuring water capacity. I'll start dipping my bullet bases in dry lube. Tony. Owner, TonyBen, LLC, Type-07 FFL www.tonybenm14.com (Site under construction). e-mail: tonyben@tonybenm14.com | |||
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| Avoiding slam fires  |
If you have very clean cases lit wet tumbling or sonic clean the copper shell on bullets will gauld and tare at the jacket.copper is the softer metal and will do this. Cast or coated will not. | |||
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Wait, what? |
Buy a 6 oz. or container of pure lanolin, and plain old Heet gas additive at the auto parts store and mix at ratios easily found on the webz. Heet is almost pure isopropyl alcohol and easily dissolves the lanolin in suspension. Source a fine mist fine mist spray bottle (sore throat soothing sprays work well) to apply it to a large quantity of brass at once in a big Ziploc, hand agitate for a minute or so to distribute it properly, then dump out on in a tray. The Heet quickly evaporates (the brass feels cold, its so fast) and you're left with perfectly lubed cases and you're set to resize. Wipe your brass down en masse in a large towel and you're set to prime and load. Only a tiny amount of lanolin makes it into case mouths and really facilitates loading. I'll never use any commercial case lube again. It works that well., and a little bit goes a LONG way. “Remember to get vaccinated or a vaccinated person might get sick from a virus they got vaccinated against because you’re not vaccinated.” - author unknown | |||
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| Yeah, that M14 video guy... |
Thanks for the tips! I'll try the home-brew stuff. I loaded ten cases this morning dipping the bullets in the dry lube and they seated with less effort. I suspect my SD's will go down. Still plenty of tension for my autoloading M14's. Tony. Owner, TonyBen, LLC, Type-07 FFL www.tonybenm14.com (Site under construction). e-mail: tonyben@tonybenm14.com | |||
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Member |
Huh. I've never heard of this before either. Would the same thing apply to new unfired cases in addition to web-tumbled cases? Also, I don't have any dry graphite but do have an old jar of dry mica, would that work as well? Always looking to improve my handloads' consistency. | |||
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| Yeah, that M14 video guy... |
I would assume so. It's virgin brass or cleaned to bare brass if wet tumbled. Tony. Owner, TonyBen, LLC, Type-07 FFL www.tonybenm14.com (Site under construction). e-mail: tonyben@tonybenm14.com | |||
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Benny6, I always resize the cases after cleaning. This includes resizing brand new cases before first use. Lightly rub finger across wax lube, then case and then scrape finger tip across case mouth. Just enough inside case to slide over expander. Do not feel a need for dry neck case lube as it is messy on the bench. This is a tip from the Glen Zedieker Handloading for Competition book. Mostly load boat tail bullets and have not felt a need for lube on them, as I am getting good results with the method I am using. Will think about this. Old dog may need a new trick. | |||
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quarter MOA visionary |
I've never had to lube to seat a bullet ever. Never even known you would need to. | |||
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Lost my vibratory cleaner couple days ago. Motor quit, second one and this one only lasted 13 months. So I am making the switch to wet tumbling with SS pins. Looking for all the help I can get with this method as I have not used it before. Now I'm reading I may have to lube bullets or inside of cases because my brass is TOO clean? First time I have heard of that. Any other input? | |||
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You don't "have to". Its just an added step in those seeking ultra low SD or ultra precise match ammo. For the average hunter or plinker or target shooter, it is not a must do. But for a match/competition shooter seeking sub 5 SDs for match grade ammo.... yes it will help. Andrew Duty is the sublimest word in the English Language - Gen Robert E Lee. | |||
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