Tossing around the idea to start reloading for my wheel guns. As I’m a complete noob in reloading it seems like maybe I should start out slow and frugal and progress from there. I think that I need to learn the fundamentals and build some confidence.

I’ll probably reload wadcutters only at the beginning.


I normally shoot 9mm, .38 Spl .45 ACP and if and when I graduate to a real loader I’ll probably set up to do those also.

I had never seen the Lee Hand Loader before

It is definitely an intro to reloading

I watched the Lee intro video on it and they say you can achieve 50 rds an hour

Setting the primer is the one step that makes me nervous

<make sure you wear ear plugs and safety glasses>


It probably will not stop with just the purchase of that kit

They suck you in with the kit ,then you need the plastic hammer ,then you may want a tool to clean the primer pockets,
Then a tumbler to clean the brass, then a scale then ……

Go for it, it looks like a good way to get started

While I started with the Lee Handloader in 38 Special in 1975, and Lee’s estimate of loading about 50 rds an hour is accurate, I would recommend you go with a single stage press initially. The set-up cost will be more, but you will be able to load more ammo quicker, and with less effort. Sizing the brass is slow and arduous with the Handloader, and easy with carbide sizing dies. Priming is also effortless on the single stage. And if priming with the Handloader, you need to add in the laundry expenses when the primer goes off and you have to change pants!

Lee makes a series of inexpensive but fully functional single stage presses. Once you have the press, you can load any caliber for just the cost of the dies. Also recommend the carbide resizing die- a few dollars more, but definitely worth it in the amount of time, and effort you will save.

Using Lee’s estimate of 50 rds/hr, using the Handloader you will spend about 15 minutes of range time per hour of reloading. With the single stage, you will spend at least twice that amount of time shooting per hour of reloading.

And don’t worry about saving money reloading because you won’t. I have been reloading for nearly 50 years and have not saves a penny- but I have been able to shoot a whole lot more often than if I had to buy all my ammo!

I started with a Lee Loader. However, used presses are cheap and I would recommend you start with a press.

I started with the Lee Loader also. I agree with the others, I’d try to start with a simple, single-stage bench mounted press.

Yep, just go to a gun show or several and you can pick up a used press. Theu don't wear out in a normal lifetime. How would I know, I've never worn one out....yet. Don't expect to in this lifetime.

The best way to learn is spend an evening with someone who is reloading. If you don't learn in an evening, you're either too slow to reload or learn.

I still have my second single stage press that is a 35+ years old - a RCBS Rock Chucker and still use it for any “dirty work”.

A Quality single stage press can be purchased today for just over $150.00 if you keep you eyes open and with Black Friday just around the corner I am betting you can get a great deal from a variety of different companies depending on which one you want.

I must have loaded over 20,000 rounds of 38 special back in the day on my single stage RCBS press - it was a slow process - but I never had a squib. I still remember my “go to” load - 148gr. Zero brand HBWC sitting on 2.7 grains of Bullseye powder using whatever primer was available at the local gun shop. With a family member back then in law enforcement there was never a shortage of once fired 38 brass because that is what the local city police department carried as their service pistol.

It sounds like you're off to a good start. .45 ACP and .38spcl in particular are pretty cost effective to reload...9mm not so much (but I still load of ton of it).

I agree that you should start simple, but IMO a single-stage or turret press will be simpler and less aggravating than that hand loader. It's more consistent, easier to use, and uses standard dies that will work with any press you might upgrade to later on.

I started on a Lee Classic Turret, and were I to start over, I'd do the same thing. I have added several other presses, including an LNL progressive, over the years but I still use that turret quite a bit. It's nice for low-volume batches, and being able to leave the dies set up in the turrets and easily (and inexpensively) switch between calibers is awesome. I also like that it has four holes, which allows for a Factory Crimp Die, which is a huge help in keeping everything within spec.

I am with the rest. Start with a single stage or maybe turret bench press. My first loading was done on the W.H. English Pak Tool which at least had leverage, not a mallet. I moved up to RCBS in pretty short order.

Why are you futzing with a Shovelhead when the older Knucklehead was a much more reliable engine?

Basically with your Whackamole you are going back the days when Harley actually sold a flat twin motorcycle with the valves in the block where they belong. Heck with that single band type rear brake any more than 15 or 20 HP could get you killed right quick.

Yeah, a bit of tongue and cheek sarcasm here but the point is you'll do much better and learn more with a good single stage press. Note I know that a RCBS Rockchucker seems a bit expensive but every Lee Product I've purchased with the exception of their loading dies has been plastic crap so compromised that they ended up in the trash. The Lee Safety Scale isn't actually safe because if it's on your reloading bench because any vibration will cause the zeroing wheel to shift. In addition it's about the fiddlyist scale I've ever encountered. Spend the bucks for an RCBS Beam Scale and it will last you a lifetime. As for the Perfect Powder measures they leak horribly and then jam with a fine powder such as H110 or Accurate #5.

So Scale RCBS. Press RCBS Rockchucker, BTW it will load some pretty powerful rifle loads right along with the tiny 25 ACP. Powder Measure, RCBS Competition. Yeah the Competition is pricey. However it has a micrometer setting for the powder volume and if you log that setting for a particular favorite load you can return to that value just by spinning the micrometer. It's a huge time saver in the long run and divide that price by 20, 30, or 40 years and the price per year is a cup of coffee. I keep a log book of every recipe I load and the Micrometer setting is right there in that log. Note there are digital scales out there that are pretty inexpensive and quite fast (Frankfort Arsenal). They work pretty well but do have a tendency for the zero to drift in a sinusoidal fashion enough to cause a +/- 0.3 grain variation. So if you want to load a precision rifle load use the beam scale for each load once you have it set. What the digitals are great for is to confirm a first drop, if you use the scale quickly after it's initial zero they are good and accurate for a minute or 3.

Finally Dies. Lee actually makes very good Die Sets and I prefer their 4 die handgun sets over the RCBS 3 die handgun sets. Because every time I've tried to use a combined bullet press and crimp it ends up with jacketing being shaved from the bullet. With the Lee 4 die you press in the bullet and then do the Crimp as a separate operation. Yeah, it does slow you down a bit but it reduces copper and lead fouling in the barrel. Time lost by seating and then crimping versus time spent clearing the barrels is probably a near wash.

PS; when I first started reloading I tried to cheap out on everything but the press. Within 6 months every item I tried to go cheap on got tossed in the trash. Take this as a lesson, it's actually cheaper to go first class from the start. Because I probably tossed 80-100 dollars of Lee Plasicrap.

Scooter's post is right on. Get the Carbide sizing die so you don't have to use the sizing lube pad for the brass. Plus with the carbide die, you don't have to clean the brass after sizing.
Any used press is more efficient than using the hand loader kit in my opinion.

Just a comment on carbide dies & lube. It may not be ‘needed’, but some of us lube every 5th case or so.

Clean brass goin in the die is essential also.