Hey all-

I didn't want to step on the other casting thread so I started this one.
I would like to start casting bullets for 9mm/38, 40/10mm, 223, and 308.

All I have is a Lee Production pot (on order) and a desire to learn.
Without asking you all to teach me all about it, how can I get the know how to get started?

Thanks,

Bruce

I'll be watching this thread with interest as well. I just purchased a pot, molds, and a ladle. I'm starting with 158gr .38 LSWCs, but I will likely branch into others if it goes well. I've been waiting for a dry day to try it out, but with the weather we've been having lately that may be a ways out, and I'm not doing it inside.

I’ve been a small time caster for a long time, still have a fair amount of lead in the supply. My main bullets have been 357 & 45 cal, I can load them in many loads including the muzzle-loader.

Most of my stuff is Lee, molds & pot. I normally cast outside in warmer weather, picnic table or similar. Just like with reloading, one can get the range of supplies & components, quality & cost to go with it.

I would start with just a mold or two, the pot, accessories & see how it goes. Mind the safety aspects, don’t want to get ‘splashed’ with molten lead.

My 45 cal(.452”) mold is a TL(tumble-lube) design. I just lube them then load, no additional sizing needed. They are near 200 grain, ok for 45 acp, Schofield, & Colt. With the M-L I use a sabot, 50 cal gun.

Wheel weights aren’t what they used to be. I think most all have zinc in them now. You need to find some close to pure lead.

With the time & process involved, I often find it easier to get bulk plated or lead bullets on sale or clearance. Just like reloading, it’s kinda in the hobby department, don’t necessarily have to save oodles of $$.

The best source for casting bullets info:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/forum.php

Lyman cast bullets handbook. If you are going to traditionally lube bullets you will probably need to get a lubesizer. I prefer iron moulds. They have the largest temperature sweet spot that yields good bullets. Lyman 356402 120gr. TC is an excellent 9mm mould if your 9mm barrel is truly .355 inches. My Colt 9mm 1911’s factory barrels and Glock 17 with a Wheaton Arms aftermarket barrel shoot this bullet very well.

I have a 4 cavity 140gr. .358 diameter iron Saeco mould that I am looking to part with. The mold casts good bullets but I already have another .358 140gr. mould in my inventory so this is a bit redundant. Email in my profile if interested.

How do you decide what diameter to cast in? .308? .309? .356, .355, .358?

I am looking to cast for . 223, .308, 38, .357, 9mm, and 40/10.

Bruce

You want to be .001 over bore diameter. Officially 9x19 is .355 but most are really.357. Colts and aftermarket Glock barrels are .355 and this makes .356 cast bullets correct. Most Beretta, Sigs and CZ are more like .357 which makes .358 cast bullets appropriate. 9mm is tricky and generally involves slugging your bore.

No experience with .308 or 10mm.

Ruger and Smith .38/357 are usually.357 bore except the Colts which are more narrow. .358 cast almost always works in this caliber and is a great caliber to begin casting.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?...jfkxkXRtakd3O2OACONG

Fortunecookie45lc on YouTube does a good job of explaining casting with the 38 special....he has a series on his page.

Look into gas checks for rifle rounds ,takes mold designed for those .
I also gas check some 44 mags but then I found powder coating worked better for me.

Lasc.us is a great source of information

Is your 223 a bolt action or semi auto? Getting a 223 to reliably cycle a semi auto can be frustrating for a new caster/reloader. You may want to work your way to that one after some experience with your other reloading choices.

I would be loading 223 for bolt. I expect that there will be issues with semi. Cast for the AR would be just before I start throwing rocks.

Bruce