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I started shooting IDPA this spring and recently switched small pistol primers from CCI 400 to Winchester WSP. I switched because my carry sometimes light struck the CCI's. I read that the WSP was thinner and would help with light strikes and they seem to do just that. I reload for lighter practice ammo and use this in IDPA (but they still make the Minor PF). My P226 .40 S&W I use in IDPA never had light strike issues; but I have had a FTF in my last two matches using the WSP primers. WTF??? The primer appeared to be well struck, but gave no love; even with an extra hit. I never had that issue with CCI. Guess I'll have to buy a case of CCI. Is there a way to glance at a primer to tell if it is bad? | ||
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Have you changed the stock mainspring in your gun to something lighter? | |||
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To all of you who are serving or have served our country, Thank You |
You lost me CCI 400 are small rifle primers. Have you tried Federal primers? They are some of the most sensitive primers made. | |||
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1) My bad. I used CCI 500 small pistol primers for several years. When I ran out the last time I did bridge with some of my #400 small rifle until I ordered the Winchester. My P226 fired the #400 just fine but my carry pistol (9mm Shield) would not. Thanks for the Federal recommendation. 2) Yes, my main spring is lighter. It was part of a Grayguns action enhancement years ago and I still have the original spring. But I don't believe it's light strike. I am asking if anyone else has had issues with Winchester WSF. | |||
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I have not yet begun to procrastinate |
I've been lucky, no issues with CCI, Rem, or Win primers. I bought some Fed primers just because some of my guns have very light mainsprings. Haven't needed them. (and they hog space - I hate their packaging!!) I haven't had a dead or "unwilling" primer in easily the last 15 years. (not counting rimfire) -------- After the game, the King and the pawn go into the same box. | |||
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On the FTF did it fire on the second attempt? If so it a problem of not setting the primer fully in the pocket. A primer has to have the anvil preloaded for them to be consistent. David P229R 9mm, Nitron, Beavertail Frame, Night Sights, DA/SA, SRT & Short Reach Trigger | |||
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But thanks for the clue. Maybe my well-used hulls with dirty primer pockets could cause primer FTF. Several hulls show resistance inserting the primer. If I then clean the primer pocket, they set easily. I vow to hand clean ALL pistol primer pockets, just as I do rifle! | |||
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I always buy Federal primers; they are known to be softer than others | |||
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IF the heavy hammer strike of a 226 isn't setting them off, I would suspect they are not seated to the bottom f the pocket. Push harder, they are not going off in the press. IF YOU AREN'T HANDLOADING, YOU AREN'T SHOOTING ENOUGH! NRA Instruc: Basic Pistol & Met Reloading | |||
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Over the years I have found CCI primers are the hardest on the market... including the Russian primers sold a few years ago. As a data point, my Dillon 550b instruction booklet advised against using CCI primers. Other than CCI, I don't find any noticeable difference in primers... I use Winchester, ALCAN (now discontinued but were made by Fiocchi) Remington, Wolf, S&B, Fiocchi and Federal. Other than price I don't see any difference... Primers seem to be very uniform and work well for me. FWIW Chuck Hoist on High the Bonny Blue Flag that Bears the Single Star!!! Certified SIG Armorer Certified Glock Armorer | |||
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