I have a redding .45 profile crimp die in the event that I ever get another .45 acp/.45 auto rim revolver.

This die will put a roll crimp on any bullet if I choose to use .45 auto rim brass. If I use standred jacketed bullets, then I apply a cannelure before roll crimping. I have a Corbin cannelure cutting tool and this process works but it is time consuming and a bit of a PITA.

Many shooters use .45 acp in moon clips with taper crimped rounds in these heavy revolvers and do not experience bullet creep with most loads. Most of the time.

That said I am not a fan of the concept of taper crimps being used in revolvers period. I am not the most experience handloader, shooter nor have I ever been an ammunition manufacturer. I am just opinionated on this subject and a VERY big believer in Murphy and his law on this particular subject. Murphy's Law states the one time I would have to use a .45 acp revolver for something serious the taper crimped rounds in the cylinder will have shitty neck tension and one will work loose tying up the revolver when needed most. Maybe this isn't that realistic but it is the nagging thought that will keep me insisting that any revolver round I ever use has a functional roll crimp.

quote:

Originally posted by divil:
Murphy's Law states the one time I would have to use a .45 acp revolver for something serious the taper crimped rounds in the cylinder will have shitty neck tension and one will work loose tying up the revolver when needed most. Maybe this isn't that realistic but it is the nagging thought that will keep me insisting that any revolver round I ever use has a functional roll crimp.

I shot a 625 with moon clips for several years, with nary a problem, but this alway nagged me, the possibility of creeping. Perhaps that I loaded only just over major power factor kept the gremlins at bay. The only actual gremlin I experienced was a high primer.