I want to load some .223/5.56 practice ammo.
I have a lot of 55grn bullets that I will use.

Never have reloaded any .223/5.56 so I could use some tips, like crimping, suggested powders.
I intend to use my Hornady progressive press but could use a single stage if that's of any benefit.
My brass is mostly one time used. I have a Dillon primer crimper tool for those crimped cases.I also have new cases.

Tac, Varget, H335, CFE223 all work for me.
I use Magnum Small Rifle Primers.
I also trim all brass to the length specified in reloading manuals.
I do not crimp .223/5.56.

PC

Have you loaded for other rifle calibers before?

I like AA2230 and BL-C(2) powder for practice rounds. Small rifle primers. I also have a Dillon Super Swage tool and have had to swage even non-crimped primer pockets to get some primers to seat smoothly. Some of that will also depend on the primer brand. I always full length resize and use a Lee factory crimp die, since mine are all shot in semi-autos. Don't forget case lube. I use Hornady One Shot. Case trimming probably isn't a huge deal yet, but I would likely want to trim them all on the next round.

What's the reason to use magnum primers, PCWyoming? I don't recall seeing recipes in load books for that.

Get a small base sizing die.

quote:

Originally posted by flesheatingvirus:
What's the reason to use magnum primers, PCWyoming? I don't recall seeing recipes in load books for that.

Here in Wyoming, where is a bit colder than New Mexico, I like the hotter primer.
My Speer book recommends them for H335, BL-C(2), and AA2520

PC

For semi auto I use a light crimp especially if the bullet has a groove. Do not usually crimp for bolt action.
Ball type powders tend to meter more consistently, which I like in a progressive press.
Winchester 748 has been good for me. Load data needs to be checked for type of primer used.

Thanks for the tips.
No, I have never re-loaded rifle rounds before.
The more I pre-think this the more inclined I em to use the single stage press.

I have a LE Wilson full length bushing sizer. Love it.

That's the extent of my super esoteric gear for 223. I use a bog standard rcbs seater, though I do want a LEW chamber seater so I can use it for my bolt action ammo [loaded long] and put the rcbs back on the progressive for the AR. I don't crimp anything, ever, except straight wall rounds (pistol). Haven't had any issues whatsoever except for stuff that would have hung me up anyway (failure to extract, etc).

As mentioned, there's a lot of good powders that have been verified. Varget, any 4895, CFE223, etc. my go-to for accuracy is Varget, my go-to for bulk is H335. Of course, my chosen bullet (69+gr) is a little bit heavier so you have options I don't.

Bolt action, semi automatic, or both?

quote:

Originally posted by sunburn:
Get a small base sizing die.

Agree 1000%. Ask me how I know.

Tight chamber can result in stuck case. I also purchased case gauges for every round I reload now, including all rifle rounds.

A biggie if reloading for a semi-auto is making sure the case is properly resized & the COL is acceptable. As mentioned a ‘case gauge’ is handy.

It can really mess up your day if the bolt slams ‘almost home’ on a case that doesn’t quite fit.

quote:

Originally posted by armored:
Thanks for the tips.
No, I have never re-loaded rifle rounds before.
The more I pre-think this the more inclined I em to use the single stage press.

That wouldn't be a terrible idea because of the extra steps involved in loading rifle over pistol. I started on a Dillon 550 because that's all I had at the time. The way it's set up almost allows you to run it like a single stage press. I'd also recommend watching plenty of videos. Search for "reloading 223 basics" on YouTube.

quote:

Originally posted by vulrath:
I have a LE Wilson full length bushing sizer. Love it.

That's the extent of my super esoteric gear for 223. I use a bog standard rcbs seater, though I do want a LEW chamber seater so I can use it for my bolt action ammo [loaded long] and put the rcbs back on the progressive for the AR. I don't crimp anything, ever, except straight wall rounds (pistol). Haven't had any issues whatsoever except for stuff that would have hung me up anyway (failure to extract, etc).

As mentioned, there's a lot of good powders that have been verified. Varget, any 4895, CFE223, etc. my go-to for accuracy is Varget, my go-to for bulk is H335. Of course, my chosen bullet (69+gr) is a little bit heavier so you have options I don't.

Bolt action, semi automatic, or both?

In this case its for a semi. I do have a TC Contender that I shoot in .223 but that's another story.The twist rate for that barrel requires the lighter bullets.

When ever I buy a firearm I buy all the reloading dies, a supply of reloading components, and anything else I might need to re-load for that cartridge.I also buy case gauges for each cartridge.
I have full length sizing dies (Hornady), Do you think that going to a small base sizing die for this application is worth the investment over the full length die I have?
I just took a look at powders I have on hand and see 5# of TAC, is this a good choice for the 55grain bullet?

This message has been edited. Last edited by: armored,

Yes, Tac is a popular choice for that. How it shoots in your individual rifle will tell you if it is a good choice. Many people find good loads with it.

The chambers on my rifles did not need a small base die and the loaded rounds fit in the case gauges.

I prep the brass first then complete the loading process on a turret press.
Seems to run pretty smoothly.

TAC has been great for me over recent years, Exterminator with lighter bullets.

I got a deal on 7 lbs of 8208 a while back, similar burn rate. I use that now, lots of data, various cartridges.

All the powders mentioned so far work well. Varget is supposed to be finicky to meter. CFE has a reputation for being dirty.

It sounds like you have everything you need. Use the case gauges if the ammo will be used in multiple guns. You might want small base dies if this will be used in multiple semi auto rifles, or if the brass was fired in unknown or questionable (generous) chambers. If it will only be shot in one semi auto, then you can creep up on the sizing using your chamber as a guage. Size the brass in the die until your bolt closes with no resistance then keep sizing until you move the shoulder back .002”-.003”. You can do the same to any brass that will be dedicated to the Thompson, then neck size after that but I have never played with fire formed brass so read up on that if you choose to do it.

Use lube as was suggested but don’t overdo it. Using too much lube if your die doesn’t vent or has a plugged vent, can cause a hydraulic compression in the die and the brass is the material that will fail. It will dent the hell out of your brass.

Most don’t bother to crimp .223 but it’s good insurance in my opinion if used in a semi auto.

Make an effort to remove the lube from the outside of the cases before chambering them. I know Hornady one shot and a few others say it’s not necessary, but it can increase the back pressure on your bolt when firing as the outside of the brass won’t grip the chamber walls as tightly when you touch one off.

Since you have the Dillon super swage, watch this:
https://youtu.be/C34sRku4ASY
It’s worth your time.

Happy reloading.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: 400m,

Thanks for all the info.