I've started having a problem with my P365 not ejecting the spent case and jamming with the incoming round. The spent case stays in the barrel chamber. I don't know how many times the brass has been reloaded and was wondering if weakening brass could be the issue. I've been reloading for over 30 years and this is a first. No problems with the same ammo in my G19.

Does it extract and eject
factory loads and
reloads in once fired brass?

I only tried a few factory loads that I had and it did fine with those. I plan on experimenting more this weekend. I've just never had this problem before.

What is the load? Could it be weak or with a less than optimum(slow) powder?

I’d take the barrel out & do the ‘plunk test’.

The load is 4.5 grs titegroup with 115gr bullet. I've been using this load for years with no problem until recently.

Yes, that load should cycle just fine.

At first blush I'd say your extractor is the place to start looking for the problem. I'd suggest you shoot a few magazines of your hand loads and a couple of magazines factory ammunition.

If the extractor is bad you should experience this problem with all the ammunition. If only your hand load fails to extract the problem is with your pistol. If that happens it would help a good bit if can post some clear close up pics of the fired cases from various angles.

From the information in your post I would guess you have a damaged extractor.

FWIW

Chuck

I had a similar problem with my RIA and I started using the Lee carbide factory crimp die and it fixed things.

Thanks for the replies.
I just shot 40 rounds of winchester 115 gr and about 30 of my reloads. It failed to eject one of the winchester and 2 of mine. What I can't figure is why it just started doing it. I ordered a new extractor kit and plan on trying that.

The new ejector didn't fit so I'm going to contact sig about that. I ordered and receive the lee factory crimp die and reloaded 100 round using it. I also purchase 50 rounds of federal 115 gr. fmj. The new reloads with the lee die worked fine as did the federal ammo. I did some measuring of the reloads that were causing the problem and can't really find the difference. Anyway the problem seems to be fixed.
Thanks for your help.

Sounds like it’s mostly fixed.

My son’s friend friend had a jam with his 320 years ago. They left it for me when I got home, action jammed with case or round, forget if empty.

I first cleared the gun, yes extra force. After that I noted the newly purchased gun, year or so prior, was desert bone dry. On top of that he was using steel case ammo, also bone dry.

I disassembled, cleaned & lubed his gun, later a few comments about lube and care. Never a problem again.

I’m sure your gun is in top shape, just relating a story that may not pertain.

I have the XL and use 4.7 and 4.8 Titegroup with 115 grain without a problem. I did have a few with 124gr and 4.2, loaded some 1 & 2/10 hotter and problem went away for what it's worth.

Update on problem.

I purchased a Lee undersize die for my dillon press. Problem solved. I don't know if it was the brass or the RCBS die that I have been using for 40 years but the undersize die solved the problem.

^^^^^
Are you talking about the Lee Bulge Buster Kit?? If so, that is the trick, ESPECIALLY if you're picking up range brass that may have been fired from a Glock and is susceptible to "Glock Bulge".

Glad you got it figured out!! [thumbs up]...

It's just a resize die that undersizes the case.

https://www.midwayusa.com/prod...012827841?pid=386755

Ah...OK. Guess it's similar to the Bulge Buster Kit but not exactly the same. Maybe more similar to the AR Small Base Resizing Die for pistol brass. Good to know!!!!

I would suggest a good cleaning and through inspection of the slide rails. Because one small bit of jacketing from a bullet strike could cause enough drag on the slide so that it doesn't cycle properly. Then you will want to inspect the recoil spring assembly to insure you don't have a cracked recoil spring. Next I would test every single magazine to determine if this is limited to just one magazine. Because if you drop a magazine on it's feed lips and they get bent you will have feed issues. Next check the fire control unit and rear pin to insure it's not "flopping around". After that then pull the FCU and swish it around in a bowl of acetone to get all the oil cleaned out and then use a cheap tooth brush to clean any remaining lint you can reach. After that you can set the FCU to dry off and then give it a close inspection for hidden lint or crud and pick that out with a tooth pick. Once that is done the apply a SMALL drop of oil to anything that pivots or slides and re-assemble the frame and FCU.

Yeah, this does sound like a routine "Yearly" cleaning and it is. Fact is that carry guns pick up so much lint and other debris so quickly this should be done every 3 or 6 months. Anytime you have cycling issues the first place you should start is with a thorough inspection and cleaning. Because odds are more than 10 to 1 that the issue is caused by crud.

In closing I will note that the FCU on the P365 is very well made and every single part that might be subjected to wear appears to be fully hardened and properly tempered for it's specific application. As a result the primary cause for an actual part failure is the plastic "frame" of the pistol because every plastic I know of is subject to "plastisizer migration" and the resulting brittle failure. Basically if you get an aluminum frame module for it the pistol will probably last as long as a 1911 provided springs are replaced every ten years or so.