This is my 200yd zero for my M25. Do shooters have a standard way of recording this value?



Would you say something like 4/14.25? Or is there some more clear way of recording this value?

Thanks.

Tony.

quote:

Would you say something like 4/14.25? Or is there some more clear way of recording this value?

Thanks.

Tony.

Thats what I would do, but I am no expert on this subject.
Now it has me thinking on what i would do.;

I'd loosen the turret cap and turn it to 4. Then your counting MOA up/down from a fixed value.
I have laminated dope charts on all my scoped rifles for quick reference with +- for windage dope too.
I can only shoot out to 1K yds. though.

You have a quirky way of defining your "zero".

I "zero" my 308 at 100 yards, and the elevation setting on my turret at this distance is "0". This means I dial the elevation turret up for all distances other than 100 yards.

Your "zero" is likely set around 230 yards, which is an extremely odd distance. If you choose to zero at 200 yards, change you turret setting to 0. Currently it's at -.75 MOA, which is roughly what it takes to dial down common 308 loads from 230 to 200 yards. At my altitude with a 308 and FGMM 168, I dial up elevation of about 1.5 MOA to hit targets at 200 yards.

A ballistics program will tell you the dialed elevations you need for given distances. You just need a good "zero" (target distance and 0 setting on the elevation turret), distance from center of scope to center of bore, muzzle velocity, and reasonably close atmospheric conditions.

I believe that is an older Leupold scope, possible a Mark 4 model. The elevation turret shows you have used up 4 revolutions of elevation, or 60 MOA to get close to your zero. I doubt you have much dialed elevation left in the scope. If you intend to use that rifle/scope for longer distances, you should seriously consider adding 20-ish MOA cant to your scope mounting system.

Yes, it's a Mark 4 ER/T 4.5-14x50. I can loosen the turret and set it to the number 0, which I'll most likely do. What I was simply asking was If it's common for scope shooters to develop a system other than "48 clicks from 100 yard zero" or something like that. I didn't know if I was missing a shortcut on keeping track of turret settings to quickly reference distance settings.

Sadlak does sell a 20 MOA rail for my receiver.

Tony.

Once you obtain your true zero, loosen the elevation turret screw and set the knob at 0. Do the same for windage. That scope doesn't have an elevation stop for your zero, so you must remember how many revolution marks are showing on the turret. These are the 4 horizontal marks just above the scope body.

I highly recommend a 100 yard zero. Actually, not just a recommendation -- just set it at 100 yards. Ignore any self-professed internet "experts" who recommend a different zero distance for a target 308 rifle.

No one with any real-world experience in long distance shooting will dial "48 clicks from zero". Or recommend doing that, either. If you know you have to increase turret elevation by 12 MOA, you look up at the turret and spin up another 12 MOA. Sure, you can keep you eye in the scope and dial up 2 or 5 or 7 clicks. But not 48 clicks. Or not 35 clicks. Not 26 clicks. Not 17 clicks.

But you will change your elevation to the number you need to go to. Say you need 9.5 MOA for the distance of your target, which might be 450-ish yards in your neck of the woods. Doesn't matter if you're currently set at 2.75 MOA or 12.25 MOA elevation. You look at the elevation knob and spin it to 9.5.

Oh yeah, and understand that your reticle is calibrated in mils, but your knobs are calibrated in MOA. In my experience, this makes your reticle almost useless for accurate hold-offs for elevation and windage. I know -- I had one of those scopes at one time, and essentially gave it away. The reticle is fine for using at an center aim point, however. But not good for the steel matches I shoot in.

Use a good ballistics program. JBM works well, as long as your input data is good.

Your scope supposedly has 60 MOA of elevation adjustment. Based on your picture, you may have have used it all up just to obtain a zero. Assuming your rifle is zeroed now. Test to see how many more revolutions you can dial up before the turret stops turning. I suspect you need the 20 MOA canted rail. In fact, you may have a 20 MOA rail on now, but mounted backwards. Try reversing your scope mount and see what it does to your zero elevation.

I just checked and I have just over 3.5 turns of elevation left for ~52-ish MOA.

I ran the chrono numbers and according to JBM ballistics, I should need 39.3 MOA more to make it to 1k.

Looks like I'll just barely make it. My scope has the tactical milling reticle. I do like how fine the crosshairs are.

Tony.

It appears the website I went to for elevation specs were wrong. It appears you have at least 70 MOA of vertical travel. If you have 52 MOA of up travel left, you probably have some amount of cant in your rail.

For targets at 1000 yards you will be near the top of your elevation adjustment range. Shouldn't be a big deal, but just something to consider if you consistently want to shoot at 700-1000 yards.

If this is the scope you'll use in the 1000 yard steel shoot you mentioned in an earlier thread, you'll find the TMR reticle challenging. If you don't dial every elevation, you'll hold over/under on a mil reticle scale. Unless you're really good with math in your head, your dope cards will become more complex.

Same for windage -- dial in MOA and hold in mils. You'll find that most instructors recommend holding via the reticle for most wind calls.

So... the more complex a dope card is, the more likely it is to make an error reading the numbers.