I’ve always wanted one of these but it’s one of those guns I really never thought I’d own but here I am. I assume most of you can forgive me

The thing is I don’t know much about it. I bought it off a friend new and unfired and it’s the NY version so it doesn’t have a compensator. He sold it to me with the ten round mag and 4 additional 20 rounders and 80 rounds of AAC ammo. Since I bought it last week, in preparation for the election I ordered another 200 rounds of Igman M80 and four additional 20 round mags, and a Specter Gear butt stock mag pouch.

But I have some questions for you all.

First, I’ve read that these don’t like soft point ammo and that out of the box they aren’t the most accurate guns. I got the Igman M80 frankly because it was the cheapest option and I wanted at least some ammo in case things didn’t go our way yesterday. Now that they did, what ammo should I be looking at? This is a range toy mostly but I don’t mind paying extra for quality ammo they will improve accuracy.

Second, I would like to put an optic on it. I have several electronic sights including a few Eotech holographic sights, an MRO and some cheap red/green dots but they all have homes on other rifles and I was thinking I’d like this to be a true scout rifle. From what I’ve read there are two good options, the Burris 2-7x32 and the Vortex 2-7x32. There is a pretty decent price difference and I like buying American but is the Burris really worth the extra money? Any other recommendations for optics?

Third, is the lack of a compensator going to screw me? I have seen options for aftermarket compensators that can attach to this barrel without having it threaded, but is that a waste of time and money or something I should look into?

And forth, any other observations or recommendations for accessories?

Thanks in advance and here’s an obligatory pic!

Congrats on your purchase, these are fun rifles to shoot.

I've always thought the USGI slings paired well with the wood stock.

USGI Sling

I have this exact rifle. I did not set mine up as a scout configured optic, but went with a mount from Smith Enterprise. Like you said, accuracy isn't precision, but it's good enough.

Shooting 150gr M80 NATO works for having fun at the range. My groups weren't bolt gun tight, but adequate. I picked up Hornady Black 168gr and my groups tightened up a bit.

Have fun!

A flash hider or compensator isn't strictly necessary.

And your current configuration actually offers a nice advantage in OAL. The standard Scout has a traditional M14 front sight/flash hider combo, which screws onto the end of the barrel. This adds ~3.5 inches to the end of the barrel, resulting in an overall length of ~40.5".

Whereas your version, with no muzzle device and a front sight installed on the gas block, is only 37" long. This is the same overall length as the smaller M1A SOCOM, but with a 2" longer barrel than the SOCOM for better ballistics. (Actually very slightly shorter than the SOCOM, at 37" vs. the SOCOM's 37.25"...)

This makes for a shorter and handier M1A carbine, all without the SOCOM's sacrifices of a shorter barrel and a proprietary gas system.

Some Scout owners (like me), convert their Scouts to a gas block front sight in order to gain these advantages. Yours comes with it baked in.




If you want to add a muzzle device in the future, you could always have a gunsmith thread the end of the barrel.


The factory scout rail is fine, but not great, and is just held onto the barrel with a few set screws. If you try the scout scope and decide you really like the scout concept, I'd recommend adding in an Ultimak rail in the future. It offers a much better and more stable forward rail option for the M1A. It's what I have on my Scout rifle shown above. https://ultimak.com/product/m8/

I'd have a gunsmith thread the barrel if getting the OEM setup/FH isn't an option at this point. It looks weird as is and you will notice some flash.

As for ammo, GGG (lithuanian surplus) is probably the better of what's left. If you can find some portuguese get it, but it's probably $1/round now. Pretty much everything is actually. PPU ball is okay but not the most accurate. It's good brass though. Save all your brass. GGG is boxer primed, at least the stuff I have is. It's also non-magnetic, unlike all USGI surplus like Lake City/Winchester M80. It has bimetal jackets and lead core. So if your range prohibits any magnetic ammo, M80 or XM80 or Winchester white box is out FYI.

This one has a Vortex 2-7 Scout Scope on it and is quite accurate.

These are nice, soft shooting rifles.

Nice rig.

For any interested, heres a tactical rifle match I shot last week with my M1A. Warning: disturbing images of a fat guy running LOL

https://youtu.be/aeWugrrYaNw?si=gXeKMrOYgR3saQhD

Thanks for the replies. I’ll definitely look into upgrading the rail and I just ordered a GI sling and cleaning kit to put in the stock. I doubt I’ll ever use it but it’s kind of cool to have.

I’ll take it to the range as soon as possible and run through some of the ammo I have. I have always loved the Mini-14 so I’m excited to have the big brother finally.

Congrats! Where in FL are you? For a scope mount, the Bassett low Picatinny mount is the easiest choice for an easy on/off mount and it holds zero pretty reliably. For a more permanent solution, I recommend a Sadlak steel mount.

The barrel can't be threaded for standard 308 brakes. When you're ready to change the barrel, I can help with that. A bedding job and unitizing the gas cylinder will be the best accuracy enhancements you can do to it. Make sure you seal the stock well. The factory wood is simply stained. Seven coats of pure tung oil would do the trick, or Gun Savr Pro custom oil.

When shooting ball ammo, expect three or more MOA. When swtiching to match ammo, it should shrink to 2.5 MOA without bedding or other accuracy mods.

Consider a Shooting Sight M14 match trigger. I use them on my accuracy builds.

Scouts can shoot very well when built right.

Here's my scout with a Kreiger stainless sporter barrel.






Also make sure to get a Bradley Cheek Rest, adjustable.

Tony.

Can you co-witness the red dot and irons with that set up?

quote:

Originally posted by RogueJSK:
A flash hider or compensator isn't strictly necessary.

And your current configuration actually offers a nice advantage in OAL. The standard Scout has a traditional M14 front sight/flash hider combo, which screws onto the end of the barrel. This adds ~3.5 inches to the end of the barrel, resulting in an overall length of ~40.5".

Whereas your version, with no muzzle device and a front sight installed on the gas block, is only 37" long. This is the same overall length as the smaller M1A SOCOM, but with a 2" longer barrel than the SOCOM for better ballistics. (Actually very slightly shorter than the SOCOM, at 37" vs. the SOCOM's 37.25"...)

This makes for a shorter and handier M1A carbine, all without the SOCOM's sacrifices of a shorter barrel and a proprietary gas system.

Some Scout owners (like me), convert their Scouts to a gas block front sight in order to gain these advantages. Yours comes with it baked in.




If you want to add a muzzle device in the future, you could always have a gunsmith thread the end of the barrel.


The factory scout rail is fine, but not great, and is just held onto the barrel with a few set screws. If you try the scout scope and decide you really like the scout concept, I'd recommend adding in an Ultimak rail in the future. It offers a much better and more stable forward rail option for the M1A. It's what I have on my Scout rifle shown above. https://ultimak.com/product/m8/

Yep!

The factory scout mount doesn't allow for cowitness. But the Ultimak rail sits lower, and allows you to cowitness irons and dot.

Rogue, what is the sight picture like when you have a can on that? Also, does the Ultimak rail add any weight?

That's good to know. I have that rail, but I was trying out the scout rifle concept which I ended up not really liking due to the limited number of optics available.

quote:

Originally posted by RogueJSK:
Yep!

The factory scout mount doesn't allow for cowitness. But the Ultimak rail sits lower, and allows you to cowitness irons and dot.

Gents,

Here's a picture of my "scout" built on an LRB M25 action and rail with an EOTech on it. Very nice set up.

Wes

Shortie Reconfigured by Wesley Howe, on Flickr

quote:

Originally posted by Shackelford:
Rogue, what is the sight picture like when you have a can on that? Also, does the Ultimak rail add any weight?

The AAC Blackout 51T flash hider is set up to accept a can, but I don't utilize that, since I don't have a .308 suppressor. So I can't speak to that.

It's just one of the only muzzle devices available for the M1A's funky .595-32 threading, plus I got it for free. (Though there are adapters out there that will adapt .595-32 to the much more common 5/18-24 to utilize any of the .30 cal muzzle devices or suppressors.)

The Ultimak does add a little bit of weight. The factory scout rail is ~4 oz, with another ounce or so for the factory plastic upper handguard. The Ultimak is ~10 oz. So you're gaining ~5 oz.

quote:

Originally posted by SgtGold:
That's good to know. I have that rail, but I was trying out the scout rifle concept which I ended up not really liking due to the limited number of optics available.

I was the same way. I wasn't a fan of the magnified scout scopes, but a forward mounted red dot works great. I also use Ultimak rails on my Mini-14 and AK-103, with forward mounted red dots.

I initially started with an Aimpoint PRO in a low ring mount on my Scout, before moving to the H2 Micro shown for a little weight savings.

All good info. Thanks for elaborating.

quote:

Originally posted by RogueJSK:

quote:

Originally posted by Shackelford:
Rogue, what is the sight picture like when you have a can on that? Also, does the Ultimak rail add any weight?

The AAC Blackout 51T flash hider is set up to accept a can, but I don't utilize that, since I don't have a .308 suppressor. So I can't speak to that.

It's just one of the only muzzle devices available for the M1A's funky .595-32 threading, plus I got it for free. (Though there are adapters out there that will adapt .595-32 to the much more common 5/18-24 to utilize any of the .30 cal muzzle devices or suppressors.)

The Ultimak does add a little bit of weight. The factory scout rail is ~4 oz, with another ounce or so for the factory plastic upper handguard. The Ultimak is ~10 oz. So you're gaining ~5 oz.

quote:

Originally posted by SgtGold:
That's good to know. I have that rail, but I was trying out the scout rifle concept which I ended up not really liking due to the limited number of optics available.

I was the same way. I wasn't a fan of the magnified scout scopes, but a forward mounted red dot works great. I also use Ultimak rails on my Mini-14 and AK-103, with forward mounted red dots.

I initially started with an Aimpoint PRO on my Scout, before moving to the H2 Micro shown for a little weight savings.

Nice grab!

I have this one and love it:

https://www.springfield-armory...two-tone-desert-fde/

I added an Aimpoint Micro to the stock rail and a Spectre Gear sling in Coyote.

Hey Benny I’m in Sarasota about 2 hours from you. My kids are looking at college right near you though so in a couple years I’ll hopefully be your neighbor.

I’ll definitely be hitting you up if I want to have any work done to it and thanks!

Sounds good! Let me know if you're ever passing by. I'm in Auburndale, just east of Lakeland.

Tony.

quote:

Originally posted by benny6:
Sounds good! Let me know if you're ever passing by. I'm in Auburndale, just east of Lakeland.

Tony.

I definitely will. My oldest is looking at FL Poly there in Lakeland so if we are lucky it may soon be my home.