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Remington 870 pros, I need some guidance, please. Login/Join 
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Picture of vthoky
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(Whew.) Thank you for clarifying.




God bless America.
 
Posts: 13324 | Location: The mountainous part of Hokie Nation! | Registered: July 15, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Irksome Whirling Dervish
Picture of Flashlightboy
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All 870s, except for the Tactical model in the pic, use the same barrel lug location on every barrel. This is on purpose because this is how Remington advertises you can swap out barrels, depending on what you're doing. It's a feature on all 870s, 20 gauge too.

I have the 12" LOP on my 870/20. I didn't have the forend problem that you are having which makes me think it's the forend and definitely not the gun.

I have several 870/12s and an 870/20 that I had built to be a Mini Me version of my 870P/12. Lots of furniture swaps over the years and this is first time I've heard of a problem that a little love tap didn't solve.
 
Posts: 4042 | Location: "You can't just go to Walmart with a gift card and get a new brother." Janice Serrano | Registered: May 03, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of vthoky
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I do appreciate your input. I think this one's more than a love tap will solve.

I like your "Mini Me" thought. Once this one's sorted, I'd like to build up an 870/12 like it for myself.




God bless America.
 
Posts: 13324 | Location: The mountainous part of Hokie Nation! | Registered: July 15, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of vthoky
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Well, friends and neighbors, maybe I had a fundamental misunderstanding of the way this was supposed to fit together to begin with.

I did get a message back from the lovely Kimberly at Hogue this evening (I presume[i/] she's lovely -- she was certainly pleasant to talk with yesterday), as follows:

"Our forend is a longer style and will require a forend wrench to install the nut inside. It also has a molded adapter in the rear. If you continue having issues with install, I ask that you provide more photos with the forend on your shotgun for further investigation."

It looks now like the surface I thought the nut was supposed to bank against is not actually that, for the nut will fit [i]inside
the area behind (to the left of, in my photos) that spot. Totally my misunderstanding.






That said, it appears I have a new problem: I can't start the nut onto the threads. It'll start backwards (notches toward the stock end) and thread all the way down, but I can't get it to start in the correct orientation.

Anyone know the thread design on this forend? Some things I've read tonight say it's an Acme thread, others say it's proprietary. Either way, I can't see thread damage, but I darn sure can't get the nut to start on there. (Grrr.)




God bless America.
 
Posts: 13324 | Location: The mountainous part of Hokie Nation! | Registered: July 15, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of vthoky
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Fifteen-minute-later update:

Yep. I think I misunderstood. After a little quality time in the garage with some light oil, some patience, and chasing the threads (with a thumbnail), I did find a hair-thin metal sliver in the threads. Clean, oil, repeat.

And now the forend tube is in place in the new Hogue forend. Now it's time to reassemble.




God bless America.
 
Posts: 13324 | Location: The mountainous part of Hokie Nation! | Registered: July 15, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Mistake Not...
Picture of Loswsmith
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Excellent. First, as I make the second statement let me be clear that I have 1) made this exchange on an 870 and a Mossberg, and 2) actually built a Glock lower receiver from parts and a frame as well as other gun related tasks.

Second, its things like this that now, as I'm older, just pay a professional to do. The feeling I get from "yay this is easy-peasy" to "oh f*@k what did I do" to "RRRAAAGGGEEE!!!" to "oh f*@k what did I do" to "now what?!" is now built in to whatever project I do. I wish I were as confident with my hands as many of you are.

Anyway, I'm glad that it all worked out. And Pics or it didn't happen.


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Posts: 1933 | Location: T-town in the 253 | Registered: January 16, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of vthoky
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I'm not quite to the rage state yet, but I can't post any pics yet because I haven't got the darned thing put back together yet. I'm doing something wrong when I slip the action bars back into the receiver, and for an hour last night I simply could not get it right. I finally got to where I had to set it all aside for the day and will try again tonight.

Grrrr.




God bless America.
 
Posts: 13324 | Location: The mountainous part of Hokie Nation! | Registered: July 15, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Fighting the good fight
Picture of RogueJSK
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Are you forgetting to depress the shell latches when reinserting the action bars?

Insert the action bars into the receiver, apply slight rearward pressure on the forend, and after a short distance it should stop.

Then reach up through the loading port on the bottom of the receiver and depress the inner right shell latch while applying slight rearward pressure on the forend. The forend should travel a fraction of an inch further and then stop again.

Now depress the inner left shell latch while applying slight rearward pressure to the forend. Once both shell latches are captured behind the action bars, the foreend assembly should be free to travel back further and fully seat in the receiver.

See https://youtu.be/vceDJd7KrMw?s...AP74t0ysiDLlD0&t=944
 
Posts: 32323 | Location: Northwest Arkansas | Registered: January 06, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of vthoky
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quote:
Originally posted by RogueJSK:
the foreend assembly should be free to travel back further and fully seat in the receiver.



Should be, yes, but isn't. I'm aware of the shell latches, but something's still not right. Thank you for the video link -- I'll check that out this evening. Smile




God bless America.
 
Posts: 13324 | Location: The mountainous part of Hokie Nation! | Registered: July 15, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Irksome Whirling Dervish
Picture of Flashlightboy
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Yes, usually, not always, the forend nut sits inside the front. This is why a dedicated forend wrench is important and not the stamped one with notches. You can tighten it down with the stamped one but it will be a bitch to take off since the tight molding tends to grab and hold on the nut.

Rogue's suggestion is excellent and is the culprit most of the time. Is the carrier bolt oriented corrected on top of the bars? If so and the latches are depressed, it should slide right in.

One last question - Is the trigger housing still out of the gun? Some people mistakenly leave it in why trying insert the forend assembly.
 
Posts: 4042 | Location: "You can't just go to Walmart with a gift card and get a new brother." Janice Serrano | Registered: May 03, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Fighting the good fight
Picture of RogueJSK
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quote:
Originally posted by Flashlightboy:
One last question - Is the trigger housing still out of the gun? Some people mistakenly leave it in why trying insert the forend assembly.


You can remove and reinstall the forend assembly without removing the trigger group.
 
Posts: 32323 | Location: Northwest Arkansas | Registered: January 06, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of vthoky
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This video from Brownells shows well the steps I'm taking, though I don't have the trigger group out of the receiver.

+

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5dhRCwFFmdg

I've done this before with a 12-ga version, and it was as easy as in the video. But this 20 is about to beat me. I even swapped the forend back to original last night to see if there was a difference to be seen. Nope! Wasn't happening.




God bless America.
 
Posts: 13324 | Location: The mountainous part of Hokie Nation! | Registered: July 15, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of vthoky
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I won! Or maybe I'm just too stubborn to take it to someone asking for help.

I had to walk away from the project for a couple of days, and finally got back to it today.
The little beast is finally reassembled, and I think it looks pretty sharp with its new Hogue goods.



Now to get it into TLG's hands for some destroying of paper and clays.... Cool




God bless America.
 
Posts: 13324 | Location: The mountainous part of Hokie Nation! | Registered: July 15, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of vthoky
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Now that it's back together, I can grumble about getting a snap cap stuck in the magazine tube and having to remove the mag extension yet again to poke it out (grr).

And then I'll ask, how tough is it to remove that bead front sight and replace it with something like a hi-viz tube or a tritium sight?

- - - - -

ETA: Oh, wait! Now I see. The XS Big Dot goes over the original bead -- no need to remove the bead. Cool!

(rem870.com link)




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Posts: 13324 | Location: The mountainous part of Hokie Nation! | Registered: July 15, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
semi-reformed sailor
Picture of MikeinNC
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The front sight will be silver soldered on from the factory. Unless you want to heat it, remove it, then re-parkerize it…it’ll be a PITA.

You could grind it off, but you’ll still have the solder.



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Posts: 11184 | Location: Temple, Texas! | Registered: October 07, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Irksome Whirling Dervish
Picture of Flashlightboy
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quote:
Originally posted by vthoky:
Now that it's back together, I can grumble about getting a snap cap stuck in the magazine tube and having to remove the mag extension yet again to poke it out (grr).

And then I'll ask, how tough is it to remove that bead front sight and replace it with something like a hi-viz tube or a tritium sight?

- - - - -

ETA: Oh, wait! Now I see. The XS Big Dot goes over the original bead -- no need to remove the bead. Cool!

(rem870.com link)


I've installed quite a few of the Big Dot sights on the 870.

Here are the tricks to make it a flawless and lasting installation:

1. Scuff up the underside of the XS, along with the bead on the sight. The base where the XS will sit too.

2. Degrease

3. JB Weld

4. A wood clamp to hold it overnight.
 
Posts: 4042 | Location: "You can't just go to Walmart with a gift card and get a new brother." Janice Serrano | Registered: May 03, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Some advice from a really short guy with short arms. Assuming your SO is smaller in stature and typical woman strength, just use the original rear-elongated forend with the 12" rear stock. The elongated flange of the stock forend is much easier to manipulate with shorter/weaker arms because one can hold and actuate the forend with a grip much closer to the receiver. Also, the supporting/pumping arm is not so extended straight and additionally, makes it easier just to hold the front of the gun up over extended lengths of time. The difference is that instead of using the shoulder muscles to hold the front end up, more arm bend uses more bicep muscles, which tend to be stronger (kind of like holding 5 lbs straight out versus holding same weight with arm bent). No the rear-extended forend doesn't look as proper as a standard forend, especially on a "tactical" pump shotty, but it does work easier/better for shorter/weaker arms.
 
Posts: 4339 | Location: Boise, ID USA | Registered: February 14, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Irksome Whirling Dervish
Picture of Flashlightboy
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quote:
Originally posted by Xer0:
Some advice from a really short guy with short arms. Assuming your SO is smaller in stature and typical woman strength, just use the original rear-elongated forend with the 12" rear stock. The elongated flange of the stock forend is much easier to manipulate with shorter/weaker arms because one can hold and actuate the forend with a grip much closer to the receiver. Also, the supporting/pumping arm is not so extended straight and additionally, makes it easier just to hold the front of the gun up over extended lengths of time. The difference is that instead of using the shoulder muscles to hold the front end up, more arm bend uses more bicep muscles, which tend to be stronger (kind of like holding 5 lbs straight out versus holding same weight with arm bent). No the rear-extended forend doesn't look as proper as a standard forend, especially on a "tactical" pump shotty, but it does work easier/better for shorter/weaker arms.


Excellent point with one caveat.

A side saddle that holds more than 4 rounds won't work with the extended forearm.

I have 4, 6 and 8 shell holders from Mesa Tactical and the only one that fits with the standard forearm is the 4 shot. It almost touches but not quite. Your post is very good and spot on.
 
Posts: 4042 | Location: "You can't just go to Walmart with a gift card and get a new brother." Janice Serrano | Registered: May 03, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of vthoky
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quote:
Originally posted by Xer0:
Some advice from a really short guy with short arms.


And thank you for that. I do appreciate it.
We'll test this setup for fit this coming weekend. I did keep the original pieces, so I can swap the original forend back on if necessary.

quote:
Originally posted by Flashlightboy:
A side saddle that holds more than 4 rounds won't work with the extended forearm.


We're getting just a little ahead of things here, sir... Wink
I've gotta get her used to shooting it before we start adding [more] to it. Big Grin

Having said that, I'll point out that I'm seeing the tritium XS Big Dot around for about $65. Hella tempting.




God bless America.
 
Posts: 13324 | Location: The mountainous part of Hokie Nation! | Registered: July 15, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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