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Seeking advice on whether to install a Silencerco Harvester Big Bore ASR Muzzle Brake to my Tikka T3X TAC A1 Login/Join 
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I just bought a Tikka T3x TAC A1 24” in 6.5 Creedmoor. The barrel is threaded and comes with both a thread protector as well as a muzzle brake. With the rifle as shipped, if I want to install the muzzle brake, I need to thread it on, time it, and set it in with a screw. To shoot suppressed, I must remove the muzzle brake and thread on my suppressor.

I am considering installing a muzzle brake that will allow me take advantage of the ASR Quick Attach/Detach mount I can install for my Silencerco Harvester Big Bore (aka Harvester 338) Suppressor in lieu of a direct thread end cap. The objective would be to have a more “permanently” installed muzzle brake which allows me the ability to quickly install my suppressor if I choose and not hassle with re-installation of a muzzle brake when I detach my suppressor. The goal would be to achieve more predictable consistency in shooting the rifle with just a muzzle brake or with the rifle suppressed and avoiding introducing variability with cycle of installation/removal of the Tikka supplied muzzle brake.

The question for the forum is whether this approach would yield the desired results. What other considerations might there be? What am I missing?

Thanks in advance for the wisdom.
 
Posts: 60 | Registered: January 12, 2016Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Freethinker
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If I understand your question correctly, I have a similar setup.

Mine is a TBAC 30P-1 suppressor that was modified to work with the company’s line of brakes and flash hiders. I have either a brake or a flash hider on five separate hosts: two Sako TRG-22 rifles (6.5 Creedmoor and 308 Winchester), two Tikka T3 rifles (223 Remington and 308 Winchester), and a T/C Contender (300 Blackout). The muzzle devices are timed and semipermanently attached with thread locker and peel washers, but the obvious difference is that the can is threaded and must be screwed on rather than using a QD mount.





I consider the system to be about ideal for my purposes. I don’t use the suppressor too much, but when I do, it’s relatively quick and easy to attach or switch among the different rifles.




6.4/93.6
___________
“We are Americans …. Together we have resisted the trap of appeasement, cynicism, and isolation that gives temptation to tyrants.”
— George H. W. Bush
 
Posts: 47852 | Location: 10,150 Feet Above Sea Level in Colorado | Registered: April 04, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by sigfreund:
If I understand your question correctly, I have a similar setup.

Mine is a TBAC 30P-1 suppressor that was modified to work with the company’s line of brakes and flash hiders. I have either a brake or a flash hider on five separate hosts: two Sako TRG-22 rifles (6.5 Creedmoor and 308 Winchester), two Tikka T3 rifles (223 Remington and 308 Winchester), and a T/C Contender (300 Blackout). The muzzle devices are timed and semipermanently attached with thread locker and peel washers, but the obvious difference is that the can is threaded and must be screwed on rather than using a QD mount.





I consider the system to be about ideal for my purposes. I don’t use the suppressor too much, but when I do, it’s relatively quick and easy to attach or switch among the different rifles.


Thanks for the insight Sigfreund...I guess my concern was the combined weight of the muzzle break and the Silencerco Harvester Big Bore Suppressor cause POI shift. Do notice any appreciable POI shift when you attached your suppressor on to your barrels that have the semi-permanent muzzle devices attached?

Thanks again.
 
Posts: 60 | Registered: January 12, 2016Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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For awhile I switched between brake and suppressor on my 6.5 creedmoor competition rifle. Both brake and can are direct thread. The brake is an APA with a timing/tightening collar, therefore it's no big deal taking it on and off at will.

I like how the APA brake reduces recoil. It cuts recoil faster and more effectively than a can. These are good things in PRS-type competition. But the can is just more pleasant to shoot -- less noise and blast. So far I've been willing to put up with a little more recoil, over a longer pulse.

A quick detach can system is nice. I have it with my 223/300 AR-15, for a Surefire can. The important thing is having a solid, repeatable mount so accuracy isn't compromised.

Expect POI shifts from brakes and cans. If they don't occur -- great! IIRC my first 6.5 barrel had less than a click shift between bare muzzle and brake. With a can, the POI shift was about 2 clicks down, one click right. My second 6.5 barrel is....different. Even though it's the same barrel size and contour as the first. With barrel #2 I see about 2 clicks down for the brake and either 6 or 7 down with the can. Due to the larger change between muzzle devices, I only shoot a can on this barrel.

My 308 bolt action sees about 1 click down shift for both can and brake, using the same direct thread devices. This 23" barrel may be approaching end of life. Who knows what the next barrel will do -- I have a 26" blank as a replacement, and I may keep barrel #2 at 26" for additional muzzle velocity. If so, I suspect the longer barrel may be more susceptible to POI shift downwards.

Ultimately your brake/can preference is up to you. But I recommend your sticking to one setup for consistency in recoil impulse, Point Of Impact, and muzzle velocity. FWIW, most suppressors add to muzzle velocity what would occur with a 1" to 2" longer barrel.
 
Posts: 8072 | Location: Colorado | Registered: January 26, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Thanks for the insight Fritz.
 
Posts: 60 | Registered: January 12, 2016Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Freethinker
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quote:
Originally posted by fritz:
Expect POI shifts from brakes and cans.


I do.

The photo shows a typical POI shift that I’ve experienced. Unfortunately I no longer have the details of the load, but I’ve seen the same or greater shifts with different rifles and ammunition. I don’t, however, believe the shifts are entirely due to the weight of the suppressor or muzzle device on the muzzle. My Tikka T3 Tactical models in 223 and 308 both have medium-heavy, relatively short (20") barrels, and I believe that some of the effects may be due to how the suppressor and/or brake affects how the barrel vibrates. What I do is simply determine the POI with and without the suppressor and compensate with the point of aim or the sight setting as required.





6.4/93.6
___________
“We are Americans …. Together we have resisted the trap of appeasement, cynicism, and isolation that gives temptation to tyrants.”
— George H. W. Bush
 
Posts: 47852 | Location: 10,150 Feet Above Sea Level in Colorado | Registered: April 04, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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If you're going to use a suppressor and have the option of using a QD brake system, my suggestion is install the QD brake for a couple of reasons. The main reason for me personally, is the brake acts like a sacrificial blast baffle. Even though most high end suppressors have a lifetime warranty, using the brake will extend the life of the suppressor.

The second reason is I've used direct thread suppressors and you have to constantly be cautious of the can starting to loosen up on the host. It's one less thing to worry about. Since I shoot suppressed in all my rifles, they are all zeroed with the suppressor attached.
 
Posts: 1868 | Location: Westlake, OH USA | Registered: October 17, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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My POI shift is very similar to sigfreund's with a specwar 762 on a .308 CTR. I highly recommend the muzzle brake and QD attachment.
 
Posts: 848 | Location: DFW | Registered: January 04, 2017Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Thanks for insight...when in doubt ask the forum.
 
Posts: 60 | Registered: January 12, 2016Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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