I've had a 700 VS in .22 collecting dust for years (16-18 years). It's a serviceable shooter, and accurate enough, but the long barrel and slow twist are limiting.

I don't believe in selling guns, and it's not like I'd get much money out of it if I did, so I'm looking to repurpose it into something I would actually shoot.

I have relatively consistent access to a range out to 300 and once or twice a year I can get out to 1k. I don't intend to ever shoot PRS or anything.

So what can I do with this VS action? What calibers can I squeeze out of it? Is a "bolt conversion" or some such possible to open the bolt face to allow for cartridges ike 6.5 grendel or 6 ARC?

Also, is there any conversion possible to allow the use of detachable box mags vs. the internal mag? Preferrably something along the lines of an AICS pattern, since cheap magpul mags are available.

So gurus, give me some conversion options and thoughts.

I'd like something like a 20" barrel in a 6.5 or 6mm class chambering (short action, obviously), shot suppressed almost exclusively.

True your action/bolt, re-barrel in a 8 twist 223. Drop it in a chassis/stock, all accepts AICS pattern 223 mags these days.

I know you stated don't believe in selling guns. But if you want to change to a 308 based case, dollar wise better off selling the rifle. Find another R700(still should be trued $250) or buy a Bighorn Origin action (offered with different bolt heads 308, PPC/6mmARC) build of of it....

I had a 700 VSSF in 308 that I had rebarreled to 22-250 just to have something different. Obviously, that caliber isn't an option in your case, but the rebarreling is the way I'd go.

If 300 yards is your limit then I'd also recommend sticking with .223. Changing to a 6 or 6.5 Creedmoor or Lapua would mean changing to a .308 size bolt in addition to rebarreling. A 7, 7.7 or 8 twist will get you into heavier/longer bullets with better BC's and correspondingly better wind resistance. You'll also likely get somewhat longer barrel life with .223.

I don't know if there is replacement bottom metal that supports a box magazine that will fit on your original stock or not. But there are any number of replacement stocks or chassis systems available that do. Somebody else will know more about that than I do.

I had my own 700VS in .308 rebarreled a few years ago to 6.5 Creedmoor and I've been very happy with it. But my max distance is 1000 yards, not 300. I didn't bother to have it trued up so I can't speak to the benefit of that. I replaced the stock but the new one is also an internal magazine. I also replaced the factory trigger with a Timney Calvin Elite that I've adjusted down to a reliable 1.0 pound. The original trigger was OK but tended to vary between 3.5 and 5.5 pounds, which made it hard to predict when it was going to let go.

Offgrid offered some good advise. You have a .378 bolt face in a short action which limits options to:
221 Fireball
222 Remington
222 Remington Magnum (round will not fit in magazine)
223/ 5.56

If it makes you feel any better, I am in a similar position - I have a 223 Remington PSS with 5400 down the tube. I am sticking with 223 with a quick twist to get out to 400 yards with 69 or 70 grain bullets.

I put a rem 700 in .223 into a XLR chassis(element) and it uses asic mags. Also tightened up the groups. Besides that I haven’t done anything else to it, figure when I wear out this barrel I will have a remage barrel put on.

quote:

Originally posted by offgrid:
True your action/bolt, re-barrel in a 8 twist 223. Drop it in a chassis/stock, all accepts AICS pattern 223 mags these days.

OP -- sound advice from offgrid

I shoot a lot of 223 at my range. It's quite easy to be accurate at 300 yards, and well beyond. Suppressed 223 produces minimal recoil, and the cost per round is lower than just about any ammo that is capable at that distance.

What kind of chassis do we recommend? Or stocks that accept AICS mags?

What needs to be done to the VS action to make it compatible with mags? Anything?

Barrel recs?

I'd like to keep the chassis/stock and the barrel under $500 each, if possible.

quote:

Originally posted by Oat_Action_Man:
I'd like to keep the chassis/stock and the barrel under $500 each, if possible.

The cost of buying a barrel blank plus the cost to chamber the blank in 223 Remy can easily reach $500 -- and more. You might consider a new barrel first, then a new stock down the road. At least you can shoot ammo with bullets heavier than 55 grains.

It's my understanding your current barrel has a 1/12 twist rate, which means it has limited ammo options.

Since you mentioned shooting suppressed, another rebarrel option would be 300 Blackout, although that is probably not the best choice for 400+ yards.

quote:

Originally posted by Oat_Action_Man:
What kind of chassis do we recommend? Or stocks that accept AICS mags?

What needs to be done to the VS action to make it compatible with mags? Anything?

Barrel recs?

I'd like to keep the chassis/stock and the barrel under $500 each, if possible.

A barrel blank $360. Gunsmith fee to chamber $250, $75 to thread muzzle. Ideally should get your action/bolt trued $250.

If you don't have a gunsmtih near you, Sigforum member/gunsmith jelrod1 does great work, he's chambered several barrels for me.

Bought several barrels here, good service. https://www.bugholes.com/category-s/1818.htm
Bartlien, Kreiger, Rock Creek, HawkHill all good brands.

20" barrel suggest a heavier contour, Heavy Palma, M24. Balance a little nicer.

Chassis. KRG Bravo, XLR Element

The KRG Bravo chassis was one I was looking at.

Does anything need to be done to various chassis like bedding, or are they mostly just drop in? Just seeing if there will be additional gunsmith charges incurred there.

quote:

Originally posted by Oat_Action_Man:
The KRG Bravo chassis was one I was looking at.

Does anything need to be done to various chassis like bedding, or are they mostly just drop in? Just seeing if there will be additional gunsmith charges incurred there.

Most of these chassis are aluminum overmolded, meaning you screw your action directly to the aluminum block, eliminating the need for additional bedding.

quote:

Originally posted by bigwagon:
Since you mentioned shooting suppressed, another rebarrel option would be 300 Blackout, although that is probably not the best choice for 400+ yards.

Of all my rifles, the 300blk has been the most challenging to find an accurate load for.

Suppressed subsonic ammo is quiet. It is notoriously inaccurate in my AR15 at distances beyond 25-30 yards. Vertical stringing is measured in inches at 50 yards. At 100 yards it was a challenge just keeping rounds on an 8" plate. At 200-250 yards the subsonic heavies became unstable, as evidenced by keyhole impacts on my targets.

Supersonic 300blk ammo can be really finicky on many barrels. FMJ rounds can show worse accuracy than cheap 55 grain 223 FMJ ammo.

I found Vmax 110 loads to be pretty accurate horizontally at distances out to 400 yards, but still produced odd fliers vertically.

SMK 125 loads were the most accurate in my barrel, with the obvious best from Aussie Outback. This is the only ammo that rivals accuracy of my 223 match ammo.

However, 300blk bullets have poor ballistic coefficients, and thus are more easily pushed about by the wind at distances beyond 200 yards.
110 VMax bullet G1 BC is .290 (300blk)
125 SMK bullet G1 BC is .330 to .340 (300blk)
69 SMK bullet G1 BC is .310 to .320 (223 Remy). Although rated lower than 125 SMK, I find the 69 SMK does a little better in wind in real life.
75 Hornady HPBT G1 BC is .395 (223 Remy). This is noticeably better crosswind performance than 300blk bullets.

If you're just punching paper, and a reloader, definitely consider a faster twist .223 barrel in the length you want with some heavy bullets. I build precision long range rifles, and I'm not sold on the chassis concept, yet. I like the AI chassis, but have or have tried a few others, and talked with a number of military gunsmith peers that have tested various ones for adoption, or been stuck with certain ones that were adopted and had to figure out how to make them work as intended. Personally, for my money, I'll take a good fiberglass stock from McMillan, add an AICS-compatible bottom metal if you need a detachable magazine. Some of the chassis systems seem to be a savings, but by the time you buy the accessories to make it usable, you could have had a nice, custom McMillan stock.

Back to your rifle. If you're wanting more caliber, the 6.5 Grendel in a bolt action is pretty neat for a light recoiling, long range capable cartridge you don't have to reload for. A buddy just built one on a Model Seven, and I plan to do the same...have had the parts sitting for a while, now.

Your best bet is to pick the gunsmith you want to use, tell him what you want to end up with, and let him advise on how to go about it. I learned the hard way that piecing together every part myself from internet research doesn't save me any money in the end over having a professional do it right the first time. It took going to gunsmithing school to realize the error of my previous ways. I still have custom rifles in my collection that I look at and think I should have just done this or that and would have had less money in it and a better end result. Most gunsmiths have preferences of certain parts they know work better than others, and it conflicts with internet forums' opinions/trends sometimes. In the end, that gunsmith is the one putting his name on the product and going to get trashed on the forum if such and such part fails and he doesn't want to replace it with the original part he prefers out of his own pocket. Being in PA, I'd highly recommend Montour Custom Rifles.