To cold to go out and shoot. I wouldn't last an hour so I had to do something to satisfy myself.

I built this 308 with mostly Aero parts from black friday/xmas deals. I would say it is a mid tier build running about 1500 with glass. Mostly for shooting 3-400 yards.

I watched a lot of reviews of the Arken optics (SH4 6-24X50 GEN2 FFP MIL VPR Illuminated Reticle with Zero Stop - 34mm Tube) and gave them a shot. Just looking through it around the house I would say it is worth every penny of 450 especially when you factor in all the odds and ends it comes with. I'll have to see how it stands the test of time.

For now some pics of me installing it with the wheeler level kit. I'm not sure if they have a new version or a better system now, this one is at least 10 years old, but it still works for me.

I mounted the mount to the very end of the receiver, It's the Arken mount that came free with the scope and it's good. I actually like it more then the aero mounts with their crap locking ring. The eye relief is good but I'll have to try it at a bench maxed out to really tell if it's the right position.


Using bench vice and trusty cardboard box to prop the gun up securely.



Leveled the receiver.




Leveled the barrel while receiver leveled.




Leveled scope to the barrel.



Leveled the scope bubble level to the barrel.



I adjusted the windage with a bore laser to help me get started on the zero.

Now I just need the temperature to cooperate.

Good project.
I will, though, recommend you confirm the leveling of the scope because I have found that despite how commonly it’s recommended, the top of the elevation adjustment knob may not be level with respect to the reticle. I checked a few of my scopes and the one that was off the most was the most expensive sight.

Let us know how it works. I have been wanting to build an Aero AR-10 from one of their camo or fde sets.

Now you just need a bore sighter to make sure you are on paper at the range.

Getting on paper at a reasonable distance is easy with an AR-type rifle.

Remove the upper from the lower, remove the bolt carrier, and set the upper on a rest that holds it more or less securely. Look through the barrel and adjust things so it’s pointed at the target. Then without moving the upper, adjust the sight so the crosshairs are on the target as well.

After the adjustment fire a shot or two to confirm being close to the target. Then move the target to 100 yards and fire to check POI again. Adjust the zero from there. It helps to have a large target at 100 yards to ensure you’re on paper, but if you’re on at 25 yards, there should be no problem at 100.

A bore sighter can make the initial step a little simpler and faster, but is hardly required. I have zeroed many rifles without one.

Nice, looks good.

I just got an Arken 4-16 mounted on mine.
Pretty solid deal with the combo pack.

I had a 6-24 Vortex on it then sold it and went with the Arken.
Should have done that to begin with.

The Ariska wedge wouldn't work with this scope and the 34mm tube so I just did it like the rest. Bubble level and plumb line.

I just bore sighted it with the upper in a Bog tripod at 25 yds.
I need to do it again as I'm trying out a .5" riser.
If that works out for me at the range then I'll get an ADM 1.93" mount.
So far just messing around I think it's much more comfortable for me at that height.

Maybe if it's not cold and raining with a 30 mph wind I can get out this weekend and try it out.

I'm curious to know how the Arken holds up. I looked at those a couple of years ago when I was looking for a scope for my 6.5CM, then again last year when I was looking for something to put on my R700 in 308. Both times I ended up with a Vortex Strike Eagle 5-25x56 V2.

After dealing with the $400 Cabela's 5-30x56 I am wary of anything that cheap though. That one actually looks and seems like a decent enough scope, until you shoot it. The image is clear and bright, but the parallax adjustment screw is coming apart internally, such that the recoil impulse actually changes the parallax adjustment, but on the inside of the scope. Now the parallax knob has full travel but the adjustment is a small fraction of the total turn of the knob. That's right, it was literally shaking itself apart with every shot.

quote:

Originally posted by sigfreund:
Good project.
I will, though, recommend you confirm the leveling of the scope because I have found that despite how commonly it’s recommended, the top of the elevation adjustment knob may not be level with respect to the reticle. I checked a few of my scopes and the one that was off the most was the most expensive sight.

When I get out to the range I usually bring my Torque wrench and levels with me for the first time and confirm everything works in practice. Also I'll take the turret cap off for the level. I've noticed sometimes the cap is slightly different from the Stem due to threads.

quote:

Originally posted by SIGfourme:
Now you just need a bore sighter to make sure you are on paper at the range.

I used a bore laser to get the windage adjusted and I'll start at 35 yards on a 4x4 foot target backing. Shouldn't take too much to find the paper then walk it out.

quote:

When I get out to the range I usually bring my Torque wrench and levels with me for the first time and confirm everything works in practice. Also I'll take the turret cap off for the level. I've noticed sometimes the cap is slightly different from the Stem due to threads.

You can't get the level in the middle if you remove the cap on these with the post that it has.
The top of the cap is level with the reticle on my sample.

I leveled the rifle, shone a light from the front and adjusted the reticle to a plumb line behind the rifle.
A level on top of the cap was reading level as well.
Bore sighted 2"(7.75 MOA) high at 25 yds.

The mount has a 20 MOA cant that has to taken into account as well when dialing it in at first.