I have build a 733 clone for home defense. I have it equipped with a legacy Gemtech Trek suppressor. Once the form 1 clears I will add a stock. I will be adding a sling too. My last item is a light. I have considered the Surefire M500A or a scout setup. Cost wise about the same $250-$300 range.

For the M550A the Pros I have are the switches have no exposed wires and possible lower candela NAV lights. Cons are they are no longer made so I don't know how many parts are available.

For the scout light, my only con is if I want a switch besides the tailcap, I will have an exposed wire.

AFter reviewing several of the threads on the forum there is a lot of good information on scout setup. I would appreciate any users of the M500A to please chime in. TIA!

I’m sure everyone else will have some really practical input, but my first thought goes to suppressor shadow. With that much can hanging off the gun and forward of the handguard, I personally think the 500A is the worse pick of the two for defensive purposes even if everything else is equal. At least with the Scout, there’s ways to get it forward of the front sight base to minimize the shadow some, and more importantly, put the shadow around 7-9:00 instead of 12:00.

Here's my 733.
I have a Meprolight M21 on mine.

quote:

Meprolight M21

OP is asking for weapon light, not reflex sight, options.

I have no light. My Mepro is self illuminates so I'm a sneaky bastard.


They can't shoot at what they can't see.

quote:

Originally posted by Mars_Attacks:
I have no light. My Mepro is self illuminates so I'm a sneaky bastard.


They can't shoot at what they can't see.

LOL! Marzy, You are the one who inspired me to do a 733. Mine uses an A2 upper though!

Smudge, that is something I hadn't considered. Thanks.

quote:

Originally posted by am94pm:
My last item is a light. I have considered the Surefire M500A or a scout setup. Cost wise about the same $250-$300 range.

A 500A/550A will have laughably low output for 2026. I think they do 100 or 200 lumens. If you're going for the clone-correct vibe that's one thing, but that's a fraction of modern lights if you're planning to actually use this rifle for defensive purposes. Not to mention modern lights will also have longer runtimes, rechargeable batteries, etc.

On the other hand, the Surefire scout light will have great performance, but a name brand full price Surefire is overkill for a general use civilian rifle. Something like a Streamlight ProTac HL-X or Sig Foxtrot MSR are quality scout-style lights that have similar capabilities, and everything a non-military user needs, at half the cost of a Surefire. (~$150)

They both use Scout-style mounts, and there's a plethora of them out there to get the light in just the right spot to minimize barrel/suppressor shadow like P220 Smudge was talking about. And the the Foxtrot is even cross-compatible with Surefire's various remote switches, though it comes with a perfectly servicable Sig remote switch in the package, and I've had no issues with Streamlight's proprietary remote switches on my various rifles with Protacs either.

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For the scout light, my only con is if I want a switch besides the tailcap, I will have an exposed wire.

On a true retro-style clone, you'd be looking at the old school methods of wire wrangling: electrical/duct tape, zip ties, or black/OD green cohesive wrap.

Whereas on my modern rifles, I address this by using Larue Index Clips on the top rail to route the wire along the bottom of the rail and hold it in place and/or a rail wrap like a Coletac SD Wrap or Wise Men Hotpocket to cover the wire on the side. (Which also adds grip traction and protects your hand from heat from extended firing.)

Index clips wouldn't be useful on your 733 since it doesn't have a top rail on the handguard, but a handguard wrap could still be used to cover the wire and add traction.

Most remote switch wires aren't super long, so by the time you run the wire from the back of the light, down to the rear of the remote switch, and then do a U turn to connect into the rear of the switch, you're generally not dealing with a ton of slack that you have to wrangle. And even less so if you're going to use one of the exaggerated cantilever scout mounts in order to get it forward alongside the suppressor.


While it's not directly applicable to a 733 clone, for the sake of others who might come across this thread while researching scout lights wire management, here's a couple quick and dirty snapshots of what I'm talking about with index clips and a rail wrap.

The remote wire comes out the back of this Streamlight Protac HL-X at 90*, immediately runs underneath the Coletac wrap for a bit, then is held in place by the 4 or so Larue index clips with wire guides just behind the switch, before it pulls a U-turn to pop up top and run forward to connect into the back of the remote.

There's little to no slack in this wire run, and there's all of about 1/4 of an inch of exposed wire tucked up against the rifle in the front, with the rest all gathered underneath the wrap, with a section of it also held in place by index clips.

Hey Rogue, Thanks for your input. I don't care about exact correct clone, but kind a want to keep the aesthetics. As fare as lumen, I don't need high lumen for in the house so 100-200 is just fine.

I have another AR flat top pistol (soon to be SBR) set up similar with a trek suppressor, Primary Arms Aim Point clone, with the Streamlight ProTac 625 Lumen on a Magpul MOE handguard/MOE light mount setup. This is my "outside" the house setup.