Earlier this week I picked-up this new-to-me rifle at my local shop, and I am very excited!

(Sarcasm alert) It is chambered in the highly unusual, somewhat rare .30-06!

Upon close inspection it appears to only have been lightly used. Spotless bore, stock trigger, not floated, not bedded. It came with the Nikon Prostaff BDC 3-9x40, Harris bipod, and sling.

I'm just beginning to learn about long range shooting, having had an intro class (classroom only) a month or two back. I'm scheduled for the the follow-up (range) class next month. I can't wait to see what it can do as is, what I can do as is, and to learn to fine tune both!

Tomorrow at lunch I'll head to the indoor range nearby to see what it does at 25yds. Stay tuned...

Todd

quote:

Originally posted by phxtoad:
I'm just beginning to learn about long range shooting...

Tomorrow at lunch I'll head to the indoor range nearby to see what it does at 25yds.

Good choice. I have an original M77 in .30-06. Mine's the International version, with Mannlicher stock and 18" barrel. Very handy, and a great shooter.

I have a 77 in 30-06 with the Manlicher stock.

quote:

Tomorrow at lunch I'll head to the indoor range nearby to see what it does at 25yds

I predict one hole groups.

Congratulations.

Yes, it’s obvious that 25 yards isn’t “long range,” but if long range rifle shooters can benefit from dry-firing (as I do), there are benefits to be realized from shooting at close distances. Hopefully it will be possible to find someplace to shoot at longer ranges soon.

quote:

Originally posted by phxtoad:
Tomorrow at lunch I'll head to the indoor range nearby to see what it does at 25yds.

We all start long range at some distance. Indoors with an '06 sounds like the time to wear ear muffs over ear plugs.

In theory, virtually any ammo you use should produce a single ragged hole at 25 yards. Given your newness to the game, you will likely see greater dispersion. Especially if you shoot from a hard surface using the Harris bipod. Which is a whole 'nuther topic.

I haven't shot a rifle using your scope, but you will not want to zero it at 25 yards using the cross hairs. Your point of impact at 25 likely should be around the first circle below the crosshairs -- which in theory should be Nikon's guesstimate of 200 yards. This should get you fairly close to a zero at 100 yards, which you must confirm once to shoot at 100.

30-06 is known more as a hunting round than a target round, therefore factory match-grade ammo options are a bit limited. If you handload, your options are numerous, as many good .308 caliber bullets exist. Some of the match-grade factory ammo is intended for M1 Garand rifles, therefore it is loaded to lower pressures and lower muzzle velocities. Essentially one is getting .308 Win velocities from a 30-06 round. BTW, most factory match ammo is fairly expensive -- figure $1.15 and up per round.

Federal Fusion is one of the more consistent non-match rounds that is surprisingly accurate, at least to 600-ish yards. Figure $.90 to $.95 per round if you shop around.

Loads with Hornady's SST bullet generally are pretty accurate. A handful of manufacturer's use this bullet.

Federal makes Gold Medal Match ammo in a 168 SMK (Sierra Match King) bullet. This is definitely an option for quality match ammo.

Fiocchi makes match ammo in SMK bullets -- 168, 175, and 180 grains. Fiocchi is really, really close to Federal in quality and it may shoot well in your rifle. The 175 SMK bullet is better than the 168 at long distance. The 168 may be more accurate at shorter distance. The 180 is a really good bullet, but it can be finicky with which barrels it likes.

Sellier & Bellot sells a 168 HPBT round, but I don't know anything about it.

Creedmoor Sports sells a 167 Scenar round, which should be really good. But it's expensive at $1.70 per round.

Atomic sells 175 TMK (Tipped Match King) round. In theory, this should be the kick ass ammo. Try before you stock up. In my experience with a 308 Win, TMK ammo/bullets are really finicky. TMK bullets probably need handloading to perform well, as the seating of the bullet needs to be tailored to properties of a given rifle's chamber & barrel.

I love my Rugers. Not sure about them long range, but they are great sporting rifles. MKII's from that era are known to have mushy, heavy triggers so beware. I have a boat paddle .270 from about 1999-2000 that I've killed a truck load of deer with. I did not replace the trigger but I've shot it enough that I know precisely where it breaks.

What? It's possible to shoot past 25 yds? But I can't see that far!

Today's range trip will simply be to see where the scope is pointing and how the trigger feels more than anything else. I'm hoping for one ragged hole... (per shot anyway)

My decision on .30-06 is based mostly on already having a Garand. I didn't want to introduce a new caliber (just yet). My search was simply for an old bolt action hunting rifle and this puppy was too nice and too good of deal to pass up!

Plus, I'm a tinkerer and needed a new project. So floating and bedding are planned. Maybe a Timney trigger if the stock one is as bad as most report. Dry firing it, it just seemed heavy. Not that much creep though.

Thanks for the input.


Todd

Just returned from the lunch excursion. Fourteen rounds down range and one sore shoulder later... I am very pleased. It shoots wonderfully. I don't find the trigger to be bad, either.

I shot seated, no bipod, rifle ballanced on bags on the bay's counter, and without any rear support. So by no means stable. Got the scope dialed in enough so I should be on paper at 100.

Looking forward to more class time and longer distances!

Todd

This message has been edited. Last edited by: phxtoad,

quote:

Originally posted by phxtoad:
Just returned from the lunch excursion. Fourteen rounds down range and one sore shoulder later... I am very pleased. It shoots wonderfully. I don't find the trigger to be bad, either.

I shot seated, no bipod, rifle ballanced on bags on the bay's counter, and without any rear support. So by no means stable. Got the scope dialed in enough so I should be on paper at 100.

Getting the rifle on target is a good start. Some type of rear bag would have been better.

Use a rear bag when you start shooting from the bipod. This is a whole topic on its own. Rear bags don't have to be fancy, expensive, uber tactical, or camo patterned. Just something that works for you.

A sore shoulder from 14 rounds could mean a number of things. First, your shoulder just isn't accustomed to recoil. Kind of like pushing weights around in the gym, when you haven't done it for a long time.

Could be the buttstock wasn't placed well on your shoulder. I'm partial to placement on my clavicle, rather than in the "hollow" between pec muscle and point of shoulder. This way I keep my head closer to vertical and don't have to lean very much to the right -- I'm a right handed shooter.

Could be that you didn't have the buttstock firmly up against your shoulder. Felt recoil is worse when the gun slams into your shoulder -- which pretty much guarantees crappy accuracy.

Soak up everything you can learn in the class. Like a sponge.

Spec Tech makes an adjustable trigger for the M77MKII
http://www.spec-tech-industrie...77mkii-triggers.html

It has a pretty good reputation over on the Scout Rifle forum and is reasonably priced. Don't have one myself so I can't give first hand knowledge but it is going to be my next upgrade.

Ken