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Member |
Hi, Just a question: I have an AR that I'm going to install a low profile gas block. In researching how to do it, it appears that everyone is simply driving the pins out of the original gas block/front sight. Many folks comment on how hard you have to hammer the pins...... Question: Does anyone use a press to get these pins out ?? The idea of pounding on the end of my barrel, doesn't sound like a good idea to me. Opinions appreciated ! Thanks, mike | ||
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With bad intent |
I dont recall having to use excessive force on any gas block i've removed. ________________________________ | |||
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Security Sage |
It's not a big deal. Use the correct punch. I like to use a longer taper punch, hit firmly to move the small end of the pin flush with the FSB. Then finish driving out with a pin punch. Support the FSB fully while driving pins out, and back in. RB Cancer fighter (Non-Hodgkins Lymphoma) since 2009, now fighting Diffuse Large B-Cell Lymphoma. | |||
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Old Air Cavalryman |
This. Here's a front sight block: http://www.brownells.com/gunsm...block-prod20727.aspx "Also I heard the voice of the Lord saying who shall I send, and who will go for us? Then said I, here am I, send me." | |||
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Member |
The impact force of using a hammer to start the tapered pins is more effective.As mentioned before using the correct tapered cup tip starter punch is the key.Another reason some have so much trouble removing the fsb pins is trying to drive them out from the wrong side.The pins are normally driven out from left to right as per mil-spec but not all manufacturers adhere to it.So some will drive out from the right side.You need to carefully measure the diameter of the pin to tell which is the smaller dia. so it can be driven out from the correct side.Installing doesn't take anywhere near the amount of force to remove.The fsb bench block comes in very handy to support the barrel for doing that kind of work but should be done on a very hard dense surface and not a typical table top so that the hammer blows will not bounce back and too little energy is transferred to the barrel. "The early bird may get the worm but the second mouse gets the cheese !" | |||
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member |
Having a roll pin punch set is key. I use the punch and hammer, with a bench block, to drive the pin out. For starting the new pin in, I find using a press is preferable, but that's just because I have them (25 ton hydraulic and a 3 ton manual). And I use the press to finish the "push" until just down to the slide surface, then the roll pin punch to seat to the optimal depth. The manual press actually works best for this, as it has much better "feel". I figure the less I "pound" on a slide, the better I'll be, not knocking other things out of whack (like the sights). | |||
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Military Arms Collector |
I had to use a press to force out the pins on a Colt A2 barrel assembly. Most other mfg I can just use a punch. | |||
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Old Air Cavalryman |
"Also I heard the voice of the Lord saying who shall I send, and who will go for us? Then said I, here am I, send me." | |||
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