Just sharing my latest M14 project that came out really well.

I just tested this for a customer. I also cut the selector cutouts in the McMillan stock and installed the dummy kit.

This is a LRB M14SA rear lug receiver with a Kreiger medium weight SS barrel, black oxide, a plug welded unitized gas cylinder, a Badger NM spring guide and a McMillan M2A. I also did a trigger job on the TG. Labor costs alone for this rifle build was just over $1,000.

He has the correct scope and will install it when he gets the rifle. in the meantime, I have my Leupold MK4 ER/T 4.5-14 on top of it. Final result was 0.66 MOA. This is exceptional accuracy from a M14-type rifle. I did the complete build and all the bedding, including the steel pillar at the rear. Bedding these rifles is way more complicated than building/bedding bolt guns. The bedding has to align the action in a way that creates a pressure point at the gas cylinder and stock ferrule. We call it "draw pressure". The draw pressure is where the black magic lies in making a M14 shoot well.

The customer has seen the results and is very, very happy!





















Thanks for looking!

Tony.

That's impressive accuracy Tony. Nice work.

Beautiful work, Tony. Congratulations. Wes would be proud.

you mention steel pillar at the rear, so double lugged?

did you add the lug?

Just rear lugged. A double lug has a screw and pillar/bushing at the front of the magwell. The rear lug is a factory rear lug from LRB. The rear lug is welded onto the receiver before heat treat and it's heat treated at the same time as the receiver.

This is a factory rear lug...

I though you were supposed to measure outside to outside then subtract the bullet diameter?

0.6675 - 0.308 = 0.3595

So you're just over 1/3 moa? Or are you not shooting at 100 yards?

Either way - nice work!

quote:

Originally posted by dbgeek:
I though you were supposed to measure outside to outside then subtract the bullet diameter?

0.6675 - 0.308 = 0.3595

So you're just over 1/3 moa? Or are you not shooting at 100 yards?

Either way - nice work!

I open my digital calipers to 0.308" and hit ZERO, then I measure the outside edges of the group and it gives me the center to center group size.

Look at the bottom number scale on the body of the tool, it's almost at the number 1.

Tony.

Got it - makes perfect sense. Thanks!

I'd be very happy with that rifle also. Lucky guy.

Great job.

Measuring the maximum size of a group, outside edge to outside edge and then subtracting the size of the bullet to get the center-to-center size, obviously works fine, and is often the only way of determining the size of a group that consists of multiple overlapping holes.

For maximum accuracy, though, two factors are important.

First is determining where the actual outside edges of the bullet holes are. That’s why I never use “splatter” targets that are mostly useful for seeing hits at long distances when one doesn’t have an adequate spotting scope. Whenever possible I use targets printed on heavy paper, and normally it’s 80 pound card stock that allows a closer identification of the edges of the holes.

It’s also necessary to know what size hole the bullet makes in the target, and that’s not what we might think (something I first learned here on the forum—fritz?).
In the card stock I use, a 0.308 caliber bullet makes a hole that actually measures about 0.3025", which means that my groups are a tiny bit larger when measuring outside edge to outside edge than if I used the bullet diameter of .308".

None of that matters, of course, for general approximations.