Got mine years ago. Do believe it was one of the IH models. Date puts it around the Korean War.
Put one clip through it and put it back in the safe. Was a blast to shoot but to me, it's a collector.

It's here!



Another question: since this is a new walnut stock, do I need to do some finishing? Soak it with boiled linseed oil or tung oil?

You've got two good options:


Option A: Pure Tung Oil

The correct finish for a USGI Garand stock is 100% pure tung oil. (NOT the "tung oil" sold in your local hardware store, which is a comparatively small percentage of oil mixed with various thinner and drying agent chemicals.)

I get my 100% pure tung oil from www.realmilkpaint.com

Starting with a small amount of pure tung oil in your palm, rub the oil onto the stock by hand. Then hang the stock up, wait about 45 minutes, wipe any excess off with a clean lint-free cloth (like an old well-worn cotton t-shirt), and then hang it to dry for a day or two. Do this for each of the desired coats of tung oil. I'd start with two coats, and see where you're at. It may take more. If the stock is really dry, it may take several more. Once you're done applying your last coat of oil, hang the stock to dry for about a week before reassembling the rifle.


Option B: 1/3 Wax, aka "Gunny Paste"

Considering it's a new production replacement stock, it's not as vital to use the real deal, since you don't have to worry about hurting its collectors value.

A 1/3 linseed oil/turpentine/beeswax mix has been used for years for treating gun stocks, including by a number of militaries. It is a good choice for wood stocks in general, even if it's not "correct" for a USGI rifle stock. It will look great, and the wood will be protected and water-resistant, plus it's a bit easier/quicker to apply than a straight tung oil finish.

You can buy it premade from Tom "The Gun Stock Doctor" here: http://thegunstockdoctor.com/

The 1/3 mix is a bit easier to apply than pure tung oil, since it dries faster than tung oil and is a bit less messy (being a paste instead of a liquid). It will also likely require fewer coats. And the beeswax also adds to its water resistance.

Thanks, Rogue.

So... I can't just run to the gun range just yet?


Guess I'll have to get to work!

You absolutely can. You don't have to finish the stock first.

Take it out. Shoot it. Enjoy it. And some weekend when you have some spare time, strip it down and put some tung oil or 1/3 mix on the wood.

quote:

Originally posted by RogueJSK:
You absolutely can. You don't have to finish the stock first.

Take it out. Shoot it. Enjoy it. And some weekend when you have some spare time, strip it down and put some tung oil or 1/3 mix on the wood.

I'll only bring it out on nice, bright, sunny days.

I took it apart, cleaned, and lubed it all up. The reassembly was a bit of a chore. Some of the parts fit a little tight. I guess that's a good thing - CMP seems to have done a great job on refurbishing this gun. My goodness does this rifle have an excellent trigger!

I cannot wait to get to the range!

If I rack the bolt to eject an empty en bloc clip for that "Ping!" one more time, my wife may leave me.

quote:

Originally posted by ShneaSIG:
It's here!



-ShneaSIG

Sooo, how 'Special' is it....What'd you get?

- Springfield Armory or HRA? IHC?
- Date of Manufacture (Based on S/N)?
- Matching/Correct Parts?

Inquiring minds want to know...

Receiver is IHC, in the 5,4xx,xxx serial range. So, 1954-56, from what I understand. The wood and barrel are new. Looks like walnut, and I think it's been treated with linseed. Barrel is Criterion. I think parts may have been refinished or reparkerized, or many parts are new. When I had it apart to lube and clean, there wasn't any wear to be seen. Everything feels very tight and solid - like new. There may not be a whole lot that's original, but I wanted a gun I could shoot. It looks like I got what I was after. I'm quite happy!

Nice choice.
I love my Special. I'm still trying to shoot it enough to break it in. It's TIGHT.
I also recommend only the Turner sling.
Not needed, but I do like the smaller national match sights.

quote:

Originally posted by ShneaSIG:
It's here!



Another question: since this is a new walnut stock, do I need to do some finishing? Soak it with boiled linseed oil or tung oil?

That's a great looking rifle!

quote:

Originally posted by Watergoat:
Lubriplate was state of the art in the 1930s, and is the white grease in the little yellow containers issued to GIs. Works as well then as now. So, it shouldn't matter.

I have had the same bottle for Lubriplate for 15 years. Works great for Garands.

I would also pick up one of the LARGE Flat Screw drivers from Harbor Freight for $2 or less. They work great for taking out the gas plug without stripping the plug end.

A shooting mat is nice for prone position. Also, go online and find a US M5 A1 bayonet as it is more like a bayonet than the old style from WW2 and Korea. It'll require the US M8 A3 scabbard. You can sometimes find unissued or repacked. Also, when the rifle is racked, it looks good with the plastic sight protectors intact. At the range, shooters like to see a colored empty chamber flag/indicator when the weapon is not being fired. Check your local Club as they may have once fired military brass right there for sale. Best to swage the primer pockets if you will be reloading. Dillions bench mount swage tool is the bunk for all calibers of mil brass.

Check out the 'Garand Gear' site:

Garand Gear

Todd

quote:

Originally posted by redlickranch:

quote:

Originally posted by Watergoat:
Lubriplate was state of the art in the 1930s, and is the white grease in the little yellow containers issued to GIs. Works as well then as now. So, it shouldn't matter.

I have had the same bottle for Lubriplate for 15 years. Works great for Garands.

I would also pick up one of the LARGE Flat Screw drivers from Harbor Freight for $2 or less. They work great for taking out the gas plug without stripping the plug end.

just buy a Garand specific cleaning kit,
it will have the proper tool to remove the gas plug, and will not mar it up like a screwdriver will,


it is also the cleaning rod handle, bolt tool as well,



ETA, be sure to only use the jointed rod as a counterweight or just to say you have one in your buttstock,

get a nice Dewey one piece rod to clean the bore, and a muzzle guide

This message has been edited. Last edited by: lyman,