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| Raised Hands Surround Us Three Nails To Protect Us  |
Bought a bunch of LBT stuff here recently thanks to their sales as of late. 3 day pack, plate carrier, and EDC wallet. Turns out they have have an AR lower and I happen to like the roll mark. It’s a billet option to which I don’t have any of or really any experience with. I am familiar with the different processes of manufacture just never felt the need to spend the extra money on a billet lower. Normally would not choose to pay the billet price but the sale price savings on those 3 items is more than the lower so figure what they heck. So if you were to get a stripped billet upper or even a built one who would your choice be? They seem to vary greatly in cost. Does one really need a billet upper as well? Will there be a material texture difference? These come anodized black and I would like to have it reanodized bronze any suggestions on who to have it reanodized by?This message has been edited. Last edited by: Black92LX, ———————————————— The world's not perfect, but it's not that bad. If we got each other, and that's all we have. I will be your brother, and I'll hold your hand. You should know I'll be there for you! | ||
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Military Arms Collector |
Stripping anodizing is a very destructive process so you will lose a bit of material and alter the tolerance, especially with hard coat anodizing. So unless you have a really good reason to do it or if you're starting from an unfinished receiver, 99% of the time it's better to leave it alone. That said, there is an easy trick that you could try to get a bronze ish color, that is to go over the surface with a MAPP gas torch. The heat will burn off the black dye and leave a nice even golden bronze color (it could range from anything between a golden tan to a dark plum, depending on the anodizing), so if you're lucky it may just end up being the shade you want. Just know that once the color change occurs it cannot be undone, and be careful not to overheat any part, you want to apply the heat as evenly as possible and only enough for the color change to occur and nothing more. | |||
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| Raised Hands Surround Us Three Nails To Protect Us |
Guess I won’t be doing that with this one. Guess I’ll find a bare lower to have done. ———————————————— The world's not perfect, but it's not that bad. If we got each other, and that's all we have. I will be your brother, and I'll hold your hand. You should know I'll be there for you! | |||
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| Member |
Don't know much about the process but couldn't you have it Ceracoated the color you want over the anodizing? | |||
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| Raised Hands Surround Us Three Nails To Protect Us |
Not a fan of Cerakote. It is a very lack luster finish. I want to keep the metallic sparkle like on a Streamlight TLR1 it looks good. Cerakote does not.  ———————————————— The world's not perfect, but it's not that bad. If we got each other, and that's all we have. I will be your brother, and I'll hold your hand. You should know I'll be there for you! | |||
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| Member |
The best way to get what OP wants is to buy a lower with no anodizing. https://www.foundingfathersarm...-lower-receiver-raw/ The are probably other billet manufacturers that sell in the raw or white. Bill | |||
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quarter MOA visionary |
FWIW, I have always purchased an upper of the same manufacturer so they match physically and cosmetically. I only buy and build stripped ones as well with the exception of some Mega Arms all-in-on integrated sets back when they were available (MTS or monolithic upper). As far as finishing, all you need to do is lightly sandblast for Cerakoting. You don't have to take all the way down to the metal. | |||
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| Raised Hands Surround Us Three Nails To Protect Us |
In this instance I bought the upper strictly because I wanted the LBT roll mark. My understanding is they are Triton billet lowers. I am unable to locate and Triton billet uppers in stock. As far as Cerakoting, I am not a fan of the finish. Especially for what I am specifically looking for in color. Not a huge deal really if it stays black. ———————————————— The world's not perfect, but it's not that bad. If we got each other, and that's all we have. I will be your brother, and I'll hold your hand. You should know I'll be there for you! | |||
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| Member |
Just leave it black. I'm old enough that I think there are only 2 "colors" that belong on a firearm, Black or Silver (as in stainless or nickle). I'm also old enough that I've contemplated getting some Walnut furniture for my AR's. I've stopped counting. | |||
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| Raised Hands Surround Us Three Nails To Protect Us |
I think I’ll leave this one black since it is a limited run. Did not realize removing anodizing was so harsh to the material. However I saw a rifle with a bronze lower and a bronze light with the rest black and it really looked slick. Just enough bronze. ———————————————— The world's not perfect, but it's not that bad. If we got each other, and that's all we have. I will be your brother, and I'll hold your hand. You should know I'll be there for you! | |||
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| Buy that Classic SIG in All Stainless, No rail wear will be painless.  |
Generally speaking about anodizing, the below information is a decent beginners guide. Let's say for discussion purposes we start with a cube of aluminum when it's measured with an accurate micrometer, which is accurate to 0.0001" and it measures 1.000" in it's raw machined state. After hard coat anodizing, it will measure about 1.002" That's because anodizing builds up about 0.001" per surface. Anodizing also "penetrates" into the surface of the raw machined part about 0.001" Anodizing when it needs to be removed is by a chemical process, and stripping anodizing needs to remove what has penetrated into the raw machined part as well as what is above the original part surface. (altered aluminum molecular structure near the surface of the original machined part and anodizing coloring dyes) So starting with the anodized cube which measures 1.002" after anodizing, it will measure at a maximum of 0.998" after stripping. This dimensional change is what destroys finely machined aluminum parts such as AR 15 receivers, or SIG aluminum pistol frames when anodizing is stripped. The devil is in the details when it comes to threads, accurately sized holes for assembly pins, takedown levers, trigger and hammer pins and everything else in/on a receiver. Most parts that are designed for anodization after machining, have the dimensional changes that take place during anodization built into the process. NRA Benefactor Life Member NRA Instructor USPSA Chief Range Officer | |||
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| Little ray of sunshine  |
Anodizing isn't just a coating like paint - it is the conversion of some aluminum metal on the surface of the piece into aluminum oxide. This material is harder than aluminum metal, and won't oxidize further. Aluminum oxide is grayish/whitish but it is porous, and can be dyed nearly any color. The fish is mute, expressionless. The fish doesn't think because the fish knows everything. | |||
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Member |
There are some shops out there that do things a little different, trying to go after that anodized look. https://redactedconcepts.com/gallery | |||
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| Raised Hands Surround Us Three Nails To Protect Us |
I guess I am getting old. Can’t see anything but some computer animated pictures on that site and an about us that tells me nothing of substance about them. ———————————————— The world's not perfect, but it's not that bad. If we got each other, and that's all we have. I will be your brother, and I'll hold your hand. You should know I'll be there for you! | |||
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| Member |
Agreed. That website is stupid. "Elite cerakote for elite people". Guess I won't be counting myself among the elite. | |||
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