I have all the proper tools for muzzle device install and removal - Bev Block, barrel clamps, vise, GI multi tool, wrenches, etc.

But invariably the edges on the flats always distort a bit from the torque needed to time the device on a crush washer. This is not that big a deal with cheap A2 - just file off any burrs and cold blue.

But on an expensive brake or suppressor QD mount made of stainless steel with a nitride finish, I'd like to avoid damage.

Is there a trick to this? Maybe wrapping the device with a layer of duct tape so the wrench fits tight and has some padding underneath? For a side blast brake in this case, I am thinking of maybe a wood or nylon dowel through the large port instead of the flats? Or a screwdriver wrapped in duct tape?

Went to Lowe's and bought a 1/2" oak dowel and put it through the comp ports and tightened the brake like a cork screw.

This is a Surefire 7.62 Pro Comp brake. It's not a SOCOM QD one - I don't anticipate buying a Surefire can, so whenever I get a 7.62 can I'll change to the appropriate QD mount.

It's on a Gunsite Scout with a 1-8X Primary Arms ACSS scope in the normal location using Ruger pattern rings. At 1x with both eyes open, it is fast, and the entire Scout mount concept is moot.

But the eye relief is 3-3.5" and I added the brake to avoid any scope scars on my head.

There are certainly flash hiders that can use a different method of tightening. Like AAC blackout which has its own tool that uses the tines. But I have installed dozens and dozens of traditional muzzle devices and never had this issue. So since the only contact point is the wrench my first suggestion is get a decent wrench and I suspect the problem will simply go away.

You could always use a strap wrench on the round parts of the muzzle device.

quote:

Originally posted by hrcjon:
So since the only contact point is the wrench my first suggestion is get a decent wrench and I suspect the problem will simply go away.

I haven’t installed dozens, but I have never had that problem either, including some times when I’ve put significantly more torque on a device with shims than would have been required to time a device with a crush washer. A wrench that didn’t closely fit the flats of the device was my first thought for the cause of the problem. For example, I found that a 20mm wrench works best with Thunder Beast muzzle devices. That may seem obvious and perhaps you’ve already found that it doesn’t help you, but if not, it’s something to consider.

I have Magpul's amorer's wrench, which seems to work well on my muzzle devices. I recall using a small crescent wrench on an item or two. Down the road, your suppressor QD mounts will get scraped up, they will show marks from taking the suppressor on and off, and they will get caked with carbon. My rifles get shot a lot -- they are long past the point of looking pretty.

quote:

Originally posted by fritz:
I have Magpul's amorer's wrench, which seems to work well on my muzzle devices. I recall using a small crescent wrench on an item or two. Down the road, your suppressor QD mounts will get scraped up, they will show marks from taking the suppressor on and off, and they will get caked with carbon. My rifles get shot a lot -- they are long past the point of looking pretty.

What muzzle device wrench on the Magpul tool? There's no muzzle device tool...

Yep, didn't notice that the keyhole looking thing on the castle nut wrench end is not just for clearance on carbine tubes, but it's a muzzle device wrench, properly sized too.

Previously I used the GI armorer's multi tool that can be attached to a square drive. Also have an open end wrench the right size. Thick tape (I had green painters tape) on the device to get a really snug wrench fit does help.

The torque to crush the washer on the Surefire 7.62 Brake was a lot higher than any 5.56 muzzle device I've installed before. I used some barrel nut grease to make it a little easier.

If you can fit "thick tape" between the wrench or tool and the muzzle device you simply are not using the correct sized or quality tool.

Anytime you are working on firearms and you need to apply force to something. Put some electrical tape on either the tool or the contact point.

Will save your finish.

There really aren't very many fasteners on an AR that you could do that with even if it helped. Let's see other than the flash hider I can't think of any. And (sounding like a broken record) the width of two pieces of normal electrical tape exceeds the allowable tolerance of an in spec wrench and fastener (although both being out of spec is of course possibility and the tape a fix).

It goes without saying: use the correct size wrench. Of course you'll round the corners of flats if you use the wrong tool.

I use one of these. I like it a lot, and haven't damaged any muzzle devices since getting it (mainly for suppressor mounts that don't have very accessible flats)

https://www.forwardcontrolsdes...e-device-wrench.html

The standard armorer wrench for the m16 has a proper cut for the compensator(birdcage).....

A regular auto wrench or crescent wrench will definitely roll the edges of a birdcage.....every time. The slot for the wrench is not as tight as the armorer wrenches

A locking cresant wrench should keep/provide the tightest grip.
https://www.google.com/search?...jYHNj0tAbSybmoAQ22:0

quote:

Originally posted by Excam_Man:
A locking cresant wrench should keep/provide the tightest grip.

If it works the way I assume it does, that seems to be the obvious solution to provide an exact, tight fit to the device being installed. I didn’t know that such a thing existed until this thread, but now I have one coming.

Sig and Q make suppressor mount wrenches. I have had good luck with super thin wrench sets I got off Amazon. Not cheap but well-made. Also, a thin Crescent wrench with a cheater bar over the handle and constant pressure to hold it square on the flats helps too.

I've been using Dead Air flash hiders installed with an AAC tool that inserts into the tines.

quote:

Originally posted by sigfreund:

quote:

Originally posted by Excam_Man:
A locking cresant wrench should keep/provide the tightest grip.

If it works the way I assume it does, that seems to be the obvious solution to provide an exact, tight fit to the device being installed. I didn’t know that such a thing existed until this thread, but now I have one coming.

The Knipex pliers wrench works great too.
However, it's not locking. But will tighten the grip as more pressure is applied.

https://www.amazon.com/Knipex-...gid=pla-486113600597

quote:

Originally posted by hrcjon:
So since the only contact point is the wrench my first suggestion is get a decent wrench and I suspect the problem will simply go away.

I agree. Avoid the adjustable wrenches, pliers, etc. and use a good quality wrench of the correct size. I've only done a handful, but I've never had any issues.

quote:

Originally posted by Excam_Man:
A locking cresant wrench should keep/provide the tightest grip.

That's outstanding.