I have a T3x CTR mounted in a KRG Bravo chassis. The current issue that needs some good ideas is that my bolt hits my cheekpiece when I go to remove the bolt so I have to remove the cheekpiece which means that I loose the good position that I used to have for it. So, do I tape some spacers to the stock, under the cheekpiece so that when I remove the cheekpiece I just have to push it back down on top the spacers or do I make a loose spacer that I just keep around and use it as a check gauge every time I have to take the cheekpiece off?

Or are there better mouse traps out there?

**Edited for typos and clarity.

Yes, the cheek rest needs to be removed to remove the bolt. Some KRG stocks come with o-rings on the posts, so when reinstalling the check rest, it returns to the same height as before. Get a pair of snugly fitting o-rings, and that should solve the problem.

I have a KRG chassis for a Tikka, and I didn’t like relying on the O-rings to position the cheek riser at the proper height so I made a spacer of a piece of leather that I punched appropriate size holes through. It usually stays on the posts, and I just push the riser down onto the spacer on top of the stock before tightening the adjustment screw. But there are other ways a spacer could be made and used, even something as simple as proper width tape wrapped around the posts.

Before I switched to the KRG chassis I marked the position of the bottom of the cheek riser directly onto the stock with a silver felt tip marker. But that was a little inconvenient when I decided to experiment with a different height. With a spacer no fiddling or looking is necessary.

Thanks for the ideas guys. I’m going to take off with the o-ring idea and try and cut some short pieces of 5/16” ID tubing to act as my spacers and slide those over the posts. Hopefully it works as well in real life as it does in my mind.

The tubing idea sounds good: easier to set to a specific length and cannot be pushed out of position like the O-rings if too much force is used when installing the riser.

The riser on my Manners T4A has a number of grooves in the posts for C clips. I set it in the posts once I found the optimal height. I do have to remove it when I clean.

I have to move the riser on my ARC chassis as well, but that's a turn of a couple of knobs because that doesn't come off.

If I'm visualizing this correctly, that seems like a design flaw. Why isn't there at least a clearance cut, or even a cheekpiece on the bolt handle side at all?

Keep in mind that cheek risers must be usable from either side of the stock, i.e., including when shooting from one’s left side. Some risers can be turned around for that purpose, but being required to remove the riser to remove the bolt or to at least clean the bore from the rear isn’t uncommon. As I recall, that’s even true of the very highly-regarded Accuracy International line. I just learned that the stock of the Ruger Precision Rifle must evidently be folded to remove the bolt (and a folding stock makes it illegal in parts of Australia, if one is looking for something to add to the “most bizarre gun laws” list).

But in any event, removing the riser from the KRG stock is very easy: loosen the thumb screw and pull the riser out. That’s much easier than some models’, but it’s useful to have some sort of spacer to reposition it at the same height after removal.

A single piece of tubing with an ID just a bit larger than the cheekrest post and cut to a length to provide the height you want is the solution that shotgunners have used for years to insure their cheek height remains the same.

quote:

Originally posted by egregore:
If I'm visualizing this correctly, that seems like a design flaw. Why isn't there at least a clearance cut, or even a cheekpiece on the bolt handle side at all?

My Manners stock has a relief cut, though my preferred riser height means I'm removing it anyway. It has grooves for C clips for retaining riser height.

My ARC Xylo chassis has a riser that doesn't come off, but is on a geared mechanism (there are teeth on the cutout in the channel for the knob, and the knob itself has a gear on it that interfaces with it, so twisting the knob adjusts the height). It's easy enough to drop the riser to remove the bolt, and easy enough to just set it again when I'm done cleaning.