I've never built an AR from parts. I have dabbled with the idea, but never actually took to task to get it done. A buddy is on me to do a build so I am seriously considering it.

I know there are tiers of production ARs. Does the same exist with the quality of stripped lowers? If one could find a stripped DD lower, would it be subsequently "better" than $35 Andersons? Or is it as I suspect as long as the tolerances are good, the Anderson will work just fine because I am assembling it and responsible for the QC?

If I am wrong about how I think of this, please let me know. I'd like to start out on the right foot.

Some of the nicer/fancier lowers look prettier or cooler, have better QC, or have nifty but unnecessary secondary features built in (like a hex screw retainer for the rear takedown pin detent and spring, a built-in trigger guard, etc.).

But functionally, as long as a lower is within spec, it'll work the same.

I imagine QC and finish are probably better with "Tier 1" mfgs, but I've assembled several ARs (to included two SBRs, see below) on Anderson lowers and they've been fine. I think people just don't like the roll mark.

For the most part, its exactly as you suspect. There are only a few big aluminum foundrys in the US. Any forged lower you get will have started its life at one of them. The metal quality will likely be the same regardless of brand.

The machine work and finish quality can differ, but Anderson does a surprisingly good job despite the price. An cheap lower from Anderson Arms will work just fine.

More expensive lowers may have nicer finish machining, better tolerancing, brand recognition, etc. Its just a matter of what you want and are willing to pay for.

Outside of forgings, there are a lot of receivers machined from "billet". With these, i would try to buy from higher end brand names. A billet can be anything from an extrusion, casting, forging, etc. After the machine work is finished, theres no way to tell which it was.

I just built an AR for a coworker and he had a $30 Anderson lower and I built a $70 Aero gen2 lower. Both worked fine with no issues. Fit and finish was a little nicer on the Aero and it had the set screw for tightening upper to lower fit. I ordered a PSA MAGA lower to try.

Thank you fellas.

I appreciate it. I'm only worried about function and not finish.

I personally would not build one using the most inexpensive of lowers or parts.

At this point in time it is very hard to justify building when you can buy an assembled PSA complete lower for as little as all the parts cost or maybe cheaper. It is crazy. I had some Mega lowers sitting from years ago and built them out using Tom's tactical parts that I would rate those as all quality including the no longer available mega lowers.

I would not go the ultra cheap route in a build. But you can and yes they would work. I would just do not want that moniker on a build myself. I understand many go that route.

quote:

Originally posted by old rugged cross:
I personally would not build one using the most inexpensive of lowers.

At this point in time it is very hard to justify building when you can buy an assembled PSA complete lower for as little as all the parts cost or maybe cheaper. It is crazy. I had some Mega lowers sitting from years ago and built them out using Tom's tactical parts that I would rate those as all quality including the no longer available mega lowers. I would not go the ultra cheap route in a build. But you can and yes they would work. I would just not want that moniker on a build myself. I understand many go that route.

So, what lowers would you build on?

I prefer an Aero stripped lower for my builds.
I have assembled ones with Andersons and they worked, but my preference is an Aero.

PC

I've gotten good results over the last year-and-a-half with several PSA lowers, assembled with PSA kits, and attached to PSA uppers. Everything fit together and worked 100%. They just work.

quote:

So, what lowers would you build on?

Again JJ, I would just buy a PSA complete lower. My latest purchase was a pistol lower with SB3A brace as you can just snap a 10" or 11" complete upper and be all set.

If you try to buy a SB3A brace package or similar it will cost more than a complete PSA lower with one already on it.

But if you are going to do a build I would look at something like a Spikes, RRA, maybe a Cmmg or stag. If you want to spend a few dollars. Look at Noveske, colt or LMT. Even if some of the ones I mention might be made by one of the A"s I would still go that route.

quote:

Originally posted by old rugged cross:

quote:

So, what lowers would you build on?

Again JJ, I would just buy a PSA complete lower. My latest purchase was a pistol lower with SB3A brace as you can just snap a 10" or 11" complete upper and be all set.

Yes sir, I get that. But, in this instance, I want to actually get the experience of building. I've never had the time or the inclination to do it before.

For what I buy Daniel Defense rifles for, I'd just pick up another completed rifle if it was about ease, or whatever. Now, I want to make time to do a build just because. Maybe build a few guns. The next one maybe I build with my 16 year old son after I get the first one under my belt.

It's that kind of thing.

I've built up a few PSAs and Andersons. No real difference I have noticed. I'd recommend everyone build one up because it's good experience and boringly simple. Gives you a solid understanding of everything going on in the lower.

Then I would buy one from PSA or one off of the two list's I previously mentioned versus buy the cheapest from one of the A's.

I was sorry to see Mega close as they made great lowers and we had a seller on here that made them regularly available for a fair price regardless of the market situation. He even did group buys.

Go ahead and buy two lowers right up front. As soon as you finish the first you'll want to do it again.

My lil Poverty Pony and what I used to assemble the lower.
PSA upper kit and an Anderson lower. I think I had $460 into the upper kit and lower.




Still goes bang and zero issues.

I have done so many of these. the only problems I have had are on two anderson's a need to thread properly the pistol grip and drill/ream the takedown pin holes. Neither would I consider serious. Of all the low end choices I like aero.
PSA no experience to counter orc but I would think its probably one of the very low end vendors.
But based on the overall situation, its hard to imagine it makes much difference in a lower.
Lower parts kits for sure you can see quality differences.

The most common thing across AR lowers is the mag well being tight on some. Really though it's hard to buy garbage, as opposed to ban years or before.

For most of the guts of a lower, just get a standard bagged LPK. Then throw out the trigger and put a Larue MBT in that bad boy.

I've had way more bad parts in a cheap LPK than the trigger group which everyone should throw away * (or order one that doesn't have the trigger).

Problem areas include safety and springs.
I would always order the LPK from someone you have heard of and who might answer the phone/email to fix something...

If.. IF you could find a stripped DD lower, it's no better than pretty much any of the other lowers out on the market.

The other thing with a DD lower in particular, is that they are fitted to a DD upper when they're initially assembled. ( To the best of my knowledge, dd still doesn't sell stripped lowers. ) So, while they'll most likely hook up with just about any other AR upper, the chances of having a slightly sloppier fit are higher, than say a brand new Aero Precision lower, for example.

Personally, I prefer and recommend Aero Precision's stripped lowers.