So I've been shooting pistols more than 20 years, and consider myself fairly well versed with their operation and can even do some simple gunsmithing and fitting on them depending on the job. Rifles, not so much. I've had an AR, 30-30, some .22's, and shottys, though never a centwrfire bolt gun. I just picked up an inexpensive one that came with a Vortex scope and some rings. Mounts are on top of receiver already from factory. Question is how do I do this right? Some of the videos make it seem like a very difficult process. The midway Usa one especially. Makes it seem like I need a lot more tools just to do this. I have some bubble levels and screw drivers and such, but what all do I really need? Seems like it should be easy, just tighten rings and then set scope in there and level. Am I missing something?

Don’t forget to torque to spec. All I do is rubberband a bubble level to the scope turret, another to a flat spot on the receiver, level them both and tighten it all down.

Depends on what level of accuracy you’re looking for. I align, lap, and torque my rings. I also use a level on my scope. However for the vast majority of people, leveling the top scope turret to a flat spot on the rifle suffices.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by JJexp:
Don’t forget to torque to spec. QUOTE]

This step is often ignored but do so at your own peril. You can get an inexpensive torque screw driver from Brownells. Problem is if you don't tighten the screws tight enough the scope comes loose but on the other hand tighten too much and you can ruin your scope because the rings can dent the scope if too tight.

I've been doing it myself forever, not complicated. I'm not surprised some videos make it look hard. Just go slow, & don't strip or overtighten anything.

Some people have a hard time changing a tire, so I can't vouch for everyone.

Does torque the rings mean only a specific tightness? Measured in inch-pounds? Wheeler makes a fat wrench I think for this. Should I get that?

quote:

Originally posted by LincolnSixEcho:
Does torque the rings mean only a specific tightness? Measured in inch-pounds? Wheeler makes a fat wrench I think for this. Should I get that?

Yes, measured in inch lbs and the FAT wrench is a fair enough buy. I use one myself and have never had an issue with it.

Is there something in particular you find difficult or isn’t clearly explained in the videos you’ve seen?

The things that must be considered and addressed when mounting a scope are
1. eye relief
2. leveling
3. proper screw torque (tightness)

Mounting the scope for the proper eye relief is just a matter of placing the scope in the rings with enough friction to hold it in place while moving the sight back and forth. There are several ways of holding the scope in place, from lightly attaching the upper part of the rings to using tape or rubber bands. If the scope isn’t actually secured, be careful to not tip the rifle over and drop the scope on the concrete floor of the garage.

Eye relief is the distance from the shooter’s eye necessary to see a clear image all around, with no “shadowing” when looking at the target. What makes this process a little tricky is that it’s necessary to check the scope location from all shooting positions. One’s eye may be closer to the scope in the prone position than when standing and shooting.

The forward/back scope position will be limited by the scope itself and the mounting system, but usually there’s enough flexibility in the parts to permit it to be mounted correctly.

Leveling the reticle with respect to the rifle helps ensure that the elevation and windage adjustments track properly. This is especially important in long range shooting.

There are many techniques for leveling the reticle. The easiest by far is if the rifle has a Picatinny rail to mount the sight to, or otherwise has a flat surface such as a one-piece scope mounting base. If so, then use the Arisaka LLC optic leveler. Spuhr scope mounts have a similar system that ensures the flat rail or mount on the rifle is exactly parallel with the flat bottom of the scopesight. That assumes that the flat on the bottom of the scope is parallel to the horizontal crosshair of the reticle, but that should be true with a quality scope. Using the optic leveler not only makes the job simpler because it eliminates the need to actually use bubble levels on the rifle and sight, but the tool prevents the rotation of the scope as the rings are tightened. (One should still use the proper techniques of tightening the right screws a little bit at a time and rotating from one screw to another. Otherwise rotational pressure may be put on the leveler tool, and that may make removing the tool difficult after the rings are tightened.)

If the leveler tool is not used, then it’s necessary to somehow level the rifle first, secure it in position to prevent its rotating, and then level the sight and keep it level while securing the mounting rings.

The traditional advice for leveling the scope is to sight on something like the vertical corner of a building, but that ignores the fact that the rifle must also be leveled properly. If the rifle receiver doesn’t have a convenient flat on top, it’s necessary to try to level it by eye or find a level that will somehow work on a rounded surface. Sometimes the receiver doesn’t have an accessible flat spot to level from but the stock does. Keep in mind, though, that the receiver can be rotated slightly with respect to the stock, and using the stock may cause a mounting error. The same is also true of the cover over the elevation turret on the sight. It may not line up accurately with the sight reticle. It may be adequate for less precise applications, but should be checked if the system will be used for long range shooting.

“Torque” refers to how much force is used to tighten the ring and base screws.
Tightening the ring and mount screws to the proper torque is obviously easiest by using a torque wrench. Other than development of the Picatinny rail mounting system, the greatest boon to anyone mounting a scope and performing other actions is the availability of reasonably-priced torque measuring tools. When I started out mounting scopes decades ago, the instructions were, “Make sure the screws are tight enough to keep the scope from slipping, but not too tight or they will damage the scope or the screws will break or strip out.” Yeah, thanks for that helpful advice.

And the screws all had slotted heads that hardware store screwdrivers didn’t fit properly, so it was almost inevitable that the screws would be damaged in the process. Somewhere along the line someone at a mount manufacturer said to himself, “You know, if we changed those screws to hex or Torx drive, I bet that wouldn’t happen so much,” but that realization was a very long time in coming.

Adjustable torque drive tools will do the job, but I have several that are set for one level of torque force because they’re so convenient to use. For example, most scope mount ring manufacturers recommend 12 to 16 inch pounds for their ring screws. I have a Seekonk 15 in-lb torque handle just for that purpose alone. They aren’t inexpensive, but they and the Arisaka Defense or Spuhr leveling tools make scope mounting so much faster and easier than the job ever was in the past.

I use a chalk line level. It's not that damn hard. Now when you become an NRA master across the course champion, you may want to get a bit more in depth.

Separate the upper and lower ring halves. Mount the lowers on the mounts, torque to spec (Wheeler Fat Wrench is handy here). Mount the rifle in something you can use to level it and hold it level. Level rifle.

lay the scope on the ring lowers, mount the upper ring halves and tighten to the point that you can rotate and slide scope within rings with a small amount of effort.

Adjust scope position for eye relief. Check rifle level and adjust if necessary. Put the level on top of the elevation turret and level scope. Proceed to torque scope ring screws checking the level of both rifle and scope as you do so. Adjust as needed.

It may take several tries to get it the way you want it, but it isn't brain surgery.

As I said, once you get into heavy competition, you may want to go a bit more in depth. But for general usage, this will get it done.

Good Luck,

RMD

quote:

Originally posted by rduckwor:
I use a chalk line level. It's not that damn hard. Now when you become an NRA master across the course champion, you may want to get a bit more in depth.
(snip)
RMD

Just because I'm in a teasing mood this morning...
Riflescopes have only just become accepted in Service Rifle which has across the course matches. And you can only have up to 4.5X maximum magnification.

On the other hand NRA Highpower, match rifles and F-class rifles, have been using scopes for a long time, but they never do an "across the course" match. Across the course requires rapid firing using rifles that are equivalent to current and past Service Rifles (M1 Garand, M-14/M1A, M-16/AR15.) In some of the stages, you have to fire 10 rounds in 60 seconds with a mag change. The vast majority of match rifles and especially F-class rifles would not qualify for Service Rifle matches.

Sigfreund covered it very well.

I also use a Wheeler FAT wrench. Note that attaching the rings to the rifle requires a lot more torque than the screws attaching the ring halves together. And keep the rings away from the objective bell, the ocular lens and the erector assembly housing (where the knobs are.)

Some good explanations. Just remember, it's really not rocket science. All you are trying to do is:

1) get the scope the proper distance to your eye when the gun is shouldered (eye relief)
2) level (Squared to the rifle). There are various methods to do this already mentioned.
3) torqued to the proper spec and tightened in a sequence that doesn't pull it out of alignment as you go. That is; tightening each fastener a little at a time going in opposing rotation like you would with a car wheel.

Check with the manufacturer for the recommended in/lbs of your particular rings and bases. 15 to 25 in/lbs is pretty much the range for ring to scope screws. 15-17 in/lbs is what Leupold recommends and you won't be too far off with that unless you're mounting a large heavy scope. Some people, especially with high recoil rifles, will use a bit of removable thread locker on the screws but I've never done that. I just check and retorque after shooting it a bit. Some say this will change the zero but I've never noticed that although I'm not a bench rest precision shooter.

quote:

Originally posted by LincolnSixEcho:
Does torque the rings mean only a specific tightness? Measured in inch-pounds? Wheeler makes a fat wrench I think for this. Should I get that?

Yes get a torque wrench/driver.
Wheeler will work fine or a Vortex ~ I use a CDI but it is a little pricey. YMMV

Thanks a lot guys for the well thought out responses. I appreciate your time to help me with this. I'll get a Wheeler wrench. I have a Tipton best gun vise so that should work for leveling for mounting.

quote:

Originally posted by JJexp:
Don’t forget to torque to spec. All I do is rubberband a bubble level to the scope turret, another to a flat spot on the receiver, level them both and tighten it all down.

This. I have both a specific inch pound torque driver and a set of tools called 'fix it sticks' that have specific inch pound fittings. Don't forget the Locktite. Anything threaded is going to back out on recoil, and you probably won't notice it until it's too late. Don't ask me how I know.

I bought one of these for the leveling. It won't work for every sight/optic combo but it is slick and easy. Really diot proof as far as leveling goes.

https://arisakadefense.com/col.../optic-leveler-combo

quote:

Originally posted by mbinky:
I bought one of these for the leveling. It won't work for every sight/optic combo but it is slick and easy. Really diot proof as far as leveling goes.

https://arisakadefense.com/col.../optic-leveler-combo

I do like this tool and have one for rifles with a continuous picatinny rail or one piece mounts with a flat.

As long as one doesn't break anything, you can try all sorts of stuff, plumbing, car repair whatever.

If there comes a time you get in over your head, enlist professional help. I go that route often, trying myself 1st.

Once you are on the cusp of damaging stuff it's important to know to STOP.

quote:

Originally posted by NikonUser:


Just because I'm in a teasing mood this morning...



Sigfreund covered it very well.

HA!

I knew that line would snag a comment from you!!

Gotcha!!

RMD

quote:

Originally posted by rduckwor:

quote:

Originally posted by NikonUser:


Just because I'm in a teasing mood this morning...



Sigfreund covered it very well.

HA!

I knew that line would snag a comment from you!!

Gotcha!!

RMD

You're just too devious for me; I took the bait.

quote:

Originally posted by NikonUser:

quote:

Originally posted by rduckwor:

quote:

Originally posted by NikonUser:


Just because I'm in a teasing mood this morning...



Sigfreund covered it very well.

HA!

I knew that line would snag a comment from you!!

Gotcha!!

RMD

You're just too devious for me; I took the bait.