I used this method to remove the blind pin.

https://youtu.be/l-KeHK_e9xY?si=XpU-ZvcZzrzo-pX7

The two dots on a piece of tape 5/8” apart worked perfectly and was dead on for knowing where to drill. Used a hand drill and was able to knock the pin right out with just a couple of light taps. Then it all went pear shaped for the reasons explained previously. I still may send my factory barrel to TROS and have it cut down since there is more than enough left to have it cut down and threaded. Unlike the CMMG barrel I’m using, the factory one is chrome lined.

I bought mine in January 2006, s/n 031XXX.

Yeah, that's the same video I used for a guide.

About 90k and a dozen years between yours and mine. Not insignificant.

I just dug my original barrel and shroud out of the parts bin and unthreaded the shroud. Lots of oil, but not a hint of threadlocker on it anywhere since it doesn't need it the way they changed it. I can more easily picture what you and the guys in the thread are talking about now, and it looks like those of us with the "Gen 2" guns definitely have an easier go of it. Some guys are saying that the two ribs forward of where the flash hider widens and tapers up from the shroud is the tell for the Gen 2 barrels. I have that, but then again, I would - my gun has the newer trigger pack also. Hrcjon, if yours is as old as Dwill's, you might be in for the same fun he dealt with. Unless you think you'd somehow revert it to the 16" version, it might just be easier to cut it right at the pin if that one guy's picture halfway down the Reddit thread is anything to go by.

What a headache.

quote:

Originally posted by Dwill104:
I still may send my factory barrel to TROS and have it cut down since there is more than enough left to have it cut down and threaded. Unlike the CMMG barrel I’m using, the factory one is chrome lined.

I keep forgetting about the chrome lining. Honestly, it's not a bad idea and I should probably have it done also.

Some pics of my barrel shroud/flash hider for reference. They are clearly two separate parts and the threading ends before the flash hider. As a note, the gap between the two parts was a bit smaller when originally assembled. I have no idea how the flash hider is attached to the barrel. I assume it’s threaded internally and screwed onto the end of the barrel, but there must be thread locker or something else more than just the pin.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Dwill104,

Yikes. my PS90 the shroud was one piece... maybe a design change. if that "Shroud" is sandwiched between the receiver and that flash hider...yeah getting if off is almost impossible without cutting the barrel....

for supressor use, im gonna try my huxwrx ventum as to see if it sounds worse.
ive only used my rugged micro30 and oculus and they both sounded pretty good as far as suppression. THey are traditional cans though. I didnt know that the suppressor use could crack the stock or affect the magazine retention. good to know. wonder if thats another use case for this "rate reducer"?

https://eliteammunition.com/PS...e-Reducer-p241934190

If the SHORT bill goes through and FN offers factory 10.3” barreled models, I’ll add a second PS90 to the lineup!

quote:

Do you mean the original white ring sight? It’s probably around in a box somewhere, but I hated it. Very hard to see and I replaced it with the black ring sight (aka the USSS sight) soon afterwards, which was a little better, but not as good as a RDS IMHO. Later on, I got a pic rail to mount a RDS, and my current setup is the HBI optic rail with a Holosun 503 green recticle, which I’m happy with. The factory pic rail is pretty high, but there are aftermarket ones that are a little lower. The HBI rails are direct mount made for specific optic footprints.

I have a Holosun 510 for mine, so the lower rail , like you said, won't work for mine. Thanks