If this is the right company there is a PDF link on this page.

http://www.nearmfg.com/purchasing.htm

quote:

Originally posted by JD2177:
If this is the right company there is a PDF link on this page.

That was the one I found. Although the page that links to the form and other pages on the site mention scope rings, the form itself doesn’t list them. Only the bases are listed and the form doesn’t seem to have any options for describing custom riser slopes/cants, or anything else. I suppose it could all be free form, but that’s not clear. The topic starter later said that he wasn’t planning to remove the factory rail, so I don’t see how Near’s offerings would do him any good, or—frankly—why he would want to make the change. If the factory rail is removed, there are other pretty cheap sloped bases available.

Because the first reference here to Near Manufacturing mentioned Spuhr, I assumed that there would be an option for elevation-increasing rings that would go on the factory Tikka mount, but that doesn’t seem to be true.
I would be interested in seeing other rings that mount directly to Picatinny style rails and that increase the elevation of the system, but thus far the Burris XTR rings mentioned above seem to be the only such option.

Added: And in thinking about it, one of the other reasons I like Spuhr mounts is because they’re available in versions that add elevation without having to change out the mounting rail. Not counting the ARs (that, admittedly, don’t require sloped bases), I’m up to five rifles now with mounting rails that I can’t or don’t want to remove (especially after my experience with the 300 WM Tikka). The Burris rings seem like good options, and I’ll keep them in mind for the future, but the Spuhr mounts have advantages I like as well.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: sigfreund,

quote:

My adapters are the Command Arms Accessories UPR, but unfortunately that item seems to have been discontinued by the manufacturer

I found one of these adapters here, and it arrived today. Of course, no instructions came with it and I haven’t been able to find anything helpful on the web. Sigfreund, I assume I take the sling swivel off, and use the hole for the center screw (screw head out, through the bushing that sits in the rail and screw into the nut that comes with it, with the nut on the inside of the fore-end. The screws on either end of the rail look like tension adjustments. How tight do you make the center screw befor tightening the end screws to lock it down?

Bipod is on its way.

Yes, the way you describe it is how I’ve attached the rail adapter. It might be possible to use the original sling swivel stud with something like a roll pin driven through the holes in the adapter and the stud, but I didn’t.

I removed the stud and replaced it with a flat (or “countersunk”) head screw on the outside and an appropriate lock nut on the inside of the barrel channel of the stock. I used a Phillips-drive stainless steel screw (hex-drive screws are also available), but because the head was smaller than the opening in the adapter, I also used a 1/2 inch nylon finishing washer under the head. Although other size screws might work, the original sling swivel stud thread is M5-0.8, and that’s what I used as a replacement. As I recall, though, I couldn’t locate nylon insert lock nuts in that metric size at my local hardware store, so substituted 10-32 nuts; I believe they’re a little loose, but worked okay with the nylon insert to hold firmly. If the sling swivel stud already has a bushing and nut, you could use them with the M5-0.8 screw (assuming Tikka still uses that size for the stud, of course).

After the rail is attached with the screw and nut tightened down as much as I felt comfortable with and the rail didn’t move with moderate finger pressure, I then turned the setscrews into the stock. With the bipod in place and maneuvering the rifle around for panning and forward pressure loading, just the screw through the stud hold won’t prevent it from rotating in my experience. As I originally mentioned, the setscrews will make impressions in the stock in order to hold everything tightly enough.

Here's the site for the Alpha Mounts:

http://trg42.com/alphamounts/

quote:

Originally posted by Alpine:
Here's the site for the Alpha Mounts:

Thank you, Alpine.