Thought this might be a fun conversation, nothing crucial but I'd appreciate the different perspectives.

Short version:

What's better than my current setup? Am I missing out by not using a more traditional WML?


Long version:

I have a couple of 10.3" 556 SBRs set up with Surefire x300s on Magpul offset mounts. The x300s are older (not 1000 lumen) versions but, based on a couple of night/light courses I've taken, they're sufficient for my purposes.

Speaking of purposes, this is primarily a HD rifle, with obvious short range outdoors usage.

The x300 switch can do a push for momentary on or flip for on. I think pressure pads, especially on a short rail, are more trouble than they're worth. Don't want strobe or tons of settings to deal with.

Here's the current setup:





What's better than my current setup?

Am I missing out by not using a more traditional WML?

Any way to bring the light in closer to the rail?

Any other thoughts?

12/31/22 Followup:

Thought I'd update this thread

After taking Para's advice about the Unity Tactical switch shield and another poster's advice about mounting the x300 at 12 o'clock for most of 2022, I've just upgraded to a couple of Surefire 600DFs.
I'm testing the first one out on my dedicated thermal/night SBR before I add them to my HD SBRs.

Wanted to see what you guys thought about the pictured WML setup. I don't want to go with a tape switch.
I went with the Arisaka mount but found that I like it best about where a regular Arisaka offset mount would put it.

The one concern is it's proximity to the can. It's an Omega .30 cal can with a silicone heat shield (works well BTW) and the light is pretty close to the can.

I see that the guy at TRex arms (love him or hate him) partnered with Arisaka to expressly make a mount that extends the light alongside the suppressor for a variety of reasons so I'm fairly confident that heat won't really be an issue. I doubt anything will flex enough to matter but I'll evaluate it for wear/rubbing after a few range trips.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: sjames,

The switch of the X300 is exposed and too easily activated on a rifle in my opinion. If you can afford it, a Surefire Scout light would be a better option, because the switch is shielded.

Streamlight scouts kit are about a benjamin. If you want a step up, a Cloud REIN is a great choice and of course Surefire is terrific as well.

I've got a few Streamlights and a few REIN's and I like the REIN Micro best for light carbines.

quote:

Originally posted by parabellum:
The switch of the X300 is exposed and too easily activated on a rifle in my opinion. If you can afford it, a Surefire Scout light would be a better option, because the switch is shielded.

Thanks, Para. Good point. I can shake out the cash and repurpose the x300 to HD pistols.

I’ll look into the scout.

Edited to add:

The shorter Surefire mini scout pro looks like a pretty awesome fit for these short SBRs.

Only 500 lumens for an hour but appears very compact and adjustable

This message has been edited. Last edited by: sjames,

I agree, scout, or put the x300 at the front of the top rail, sight behind it. It will be tighter to the gun and not dangling out in space.

That's very close to the setup I use on my rifles. I put the light at the front of the rail and put the front sight behind it. You can easily actuate the switch with either hand.

However, as you probably also have found, that light with a suppressor creates a hell of a lot of shadow and lots of bounce off the can itself.

I'm keeping that setup with the gun I don't run suppressed at all, but am going to eventually invest in something like an Arisaka or Modlight on a T-rex light bar to clear the suppressor more easily.

A company called Unity Tactical used to make this X300 switch shield but it looks like it's discontinued.

quote:

Originally posted by parabellum:
A company called Unity Tactical used to make this X300 switch shield but it looks like it's discontinued.

Thanks for sharing that. That’s a slick fix. I’ll look around…you never know what might turn up.

I’m a big fan of Cloud Defensive stuff. There’s a small version of the Rein that would be optimal on an SBR. Pic below is the OWL on one of my sbr’s.

There's nothing saying an SBR needs a small light. I see the appeal of keeping the small gun small, but you can actually get away with a bigger light on a short gun, due to how that extra weight and bulk is closer to you. I have an older millennium series SF light on one of mine, and it doesn't seem nearly as unwieldy as it does at the end of a sixteen-inch gun.
If looking into a Scout, I'd consider sticking with the legacy body, as opposed to the pro. The pro's swingarm can be really handy, in dialing in a nice fit with other accessories, but doesn't seem nearly as tough, and I have had them move when bumped on something.
The above comment about the light being shadowed by the can is very valid. The industry is obsessed with things being as tight to the gun as possible (mostly for good reason); the closer the light is the the gun, the more shadow you get. Kicking it out forward is a good approach, but then you're presented with a strength compromise, snag hazard, and potential aesthetic issues (if that stuff bugs you). Unless it's really bad, the shadow likely won't bother you, when you're actually shooting; it's something that you just won't pay attention to, like a fixed front sight in front of a RDS. However, the fact that it illuminates your silencer is a potential problem, when you're considering your signature. Of course someone you're pointing at is seeing you anyway, because you're shining a light, but the lit-up can is a beacon from almost every other angle.

Here's another, a 13.7" SOLGW with Streamlight installed on an Arisaka mount with Cloud Defense pressure pad mount. I don't put WML's on all my rifles but I do have a few.

PGT, that looks like a Streamlight, maybe an HL-X? The switch is in a cloud defensive mount, but that doesn’t look like a CD light.
The Streamlight is a great light, in fact, I have it on my work gun!

Oh, dang...you're right. I'll edit. I forgot what I put on that one and my mind it was a REIN as well (due to the mount up top) but now I recall; this has the mount up top that was much harder to deal with than the REIN pressure pad.

quote:

Originally posted by Oat_Action_Man:
That's very close to the setup I use on my rifles. I put the light at the front of the rail and put the front sight behind it. You can easily actuate the switch with either hand.

However, as you probably also have found, that light with a suppressor creates a hell of a lot of shadow and lots of bounce off the can itself.

I'm keeping that setup with the gun I don't run suppressed at all, but am going to eventually invest in something like an Arisaka or Modlight on a T-rex light bar to clear the suppressor more easily.

I may try putting the x300 at 12 and hit the range at night to see. I just swapped into the G MK8 rail so I still need to confirm zero on irons anyway.

Clearly, with the light I'm currently using I'm not planning on shooting at night at great distance. If that's a need, I've got other rifles I can set up for that.

I like the thought of the x300 at 12 and being able use from either side and, in reading elsewhere, the 12 position mitigates light backsplash from barrier if leaning around and the light is offset at 3 or 9.

quote:

Originally posted by KSGM:
There's nothing saying an SBR needs a small light. I see the appeal of keeping the small gun small, but you can actually get away with a bigger light on a short gun, due to how that extra weight and bulk is closer to you. I have an older millennium series SF light on one of mine, and it doesn't seem nearly as unwieldy as it does at the end of a sixteen-inch gun.
If looking into a Scout, I'd consider sticking with the legacy body, as opposed to the pro. The pro's swingarm can be really handy, in dialing in a nice fit with other accessories, but doesn't seem nearly as tough, and I have had them move when bumped on something.
The above comment about the light being shadowed by the can is very valid. The industry is obsessed with things being as tight to the gun as possible (mostly for good reason); the closer the light is the the gun, the more shadow you get. Kicking it out forward is a good approach, but then you're presented with a strength compromise, snag hazard, and potential aesthetic issues (if that stuff bugs you). Unless it's really bad, the shadow likely won't bother you, when you're actually shooting; it's something that you just won't pay attention to, like a fixed front sight in front of a RDS. However, the fact that it illuminates your silencer is a potential problem, when you're considering your signature. Of course someone you're pointing at is seeing you anyway, because you're shining a light, but the lit-up can is a beacon from almost every other angle.

No doubt on the fact it doesn't have to have a small light.
In practice, it seems that light placement is key on a short 9" rail, especially with the Costa type grip. Not saying I do that, but the thought that the further my off hand is down the rail, the more leverage/control I have on the gun.

Thank you for the first hand account on the Pros. I wondered about the strength of the mount but figured it would be worth a test run.

As far as light on the can, I think that's a compromise too. If the light is super bright, the reflection can compromise the shooter's vision.

I have also considered a cantilever MLOK mount but I'm not wild about getting much further forward than the muzzle for obvious reasons, one of which is pulling the can off when I need to.

In regards to your comment on placement compromising your preferred grip, I'd suggest an outboard placement, with a remote switch. I understand the simplicity of the inboard placement, and it has appeal, but I find that inboard placement interferes with sling attachment, and can fall victim to sling interference and/or accidental discharge. That all depends on your sling preferences, of course. With the outboard and remote setup, you just need to make sure you still have a constant-on function, and you'll need to tidy up your cable(s). Zip ties and boot blousing bands do quite well, and are cheap; Larue index clips are fantastic as well, and are quite affordable. There's all kinds of weird stuff out there nowadays, for "cable management", but I find it all quite unnecessary. PGT's setup is a good example.

I just got in an Inforce WMLx.
Easy activation and out of the way.
No rounds downrange with it yet but so far I like it.

I have an Ariska similar to surefire scout on my 10” Scar and my 13.7”s both have Modlite PLHv2 with Modlite modbutton lites.

I agree with Para about the chance of accidentally hitting the button.

quote:

Originally posted by powermad:
I just got in an Inforce WMLx.

After experimenting with a couple of other types, I really like the INFORCE because of how easy and uncomplicated it is to operate.