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If your gonna be a Bear, be a Grizzly. |
Hey all, I just picked this up and put it on my SIG 716 DMR. It looks really cool, but I have no idea how to read this thing. Is there an idiots guide on what to do and how to use it beyond pull the trigger and make a lot of noise? I have shot rifles and cheap non info scopes, but am a relative newb to the "precision rifle & scope world". Thanks | ||
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Member |
Are you meaning the reticle? | |||
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If your gonna be a Bear, be a Grizzly. |
Yes please. | |||
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Freethinker |
I assume this is it. What are your questions? This message has been edited. Last edited by: sigfreund, ► 6.4/93.6 ___________ “We are Americans …. Together we have resisted the trap of appeasement, cynicism, and isolation that gives temptation to tyrants.” — George H. W. Bush | |||
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If your gonna be a Bear, be a Grizzly. |
After doing a little browsing on the other thread Help understanding Mil dot Reticles, I have a better understanding of Mil. The scope came with basically no instructions at all, and like i said, I am a newb to scopes that have anything other than your basic cross hairs. Questions: 1. What are the gauges between three and five on both sides of zero on the horizontal line. 2. What is the gauge between three and five on the vertical line? 3. Is there anything to the white stepped point next to both of the 10's or is it just for looks. 4. I am guessing MRAD in the name, means Mil Rad. What does the DEV-L mean? | |||
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Freethinker |
Three common names for the same thing: milliradian (full name), mil, and MRAD. Your turret adjustments are at 0.1 mil intervals. No idea what DEV-L means. As you probably know, the largest hashmarks on the vertical and horizontal crosshairs are at 1 mil intervals. If there is one smaller hashmark between the mil marks, it is at the 0.5 mil interval. That reticle also has some mil marks divided into five sections (four small marks), or at every 0.2 mil interval. The vertical crosshair below the center appears to be divided into 0.2 mil segments. There are many different reticle designs among various manufacturers. It is probably most common to have marks at every mil out to some arbitrary limit; that can be 5, 10, or sometimes more mils from the center. Except for the old traditional mildot, most mil intervals are further divided. In my experience, it’s most common for them to be divided at 0.5 mil intervals, but often parts of the reticle will be divided into smaller sections (e.g., 0.2 mil) to permit finer measurements. There are some things I don’t know about the SIG reticle. It appears, though, that between 3 and 5 on the horizontal crosshair and on the upper portion of the vertical the marks are at 0.1 mil intervals. The increasing length vertical lines between 4 and 5 on the horizontal crosshair appear to also be at 0.1 mil height intervals. The small dots on the horizontal lines below the crosshair also appear to be at 0.2 mil intervals. All that is probably for maximum precision when measuring angles. I don’t know what the white tips on the horizontal crosshair are. I imagine they are also calibrated in mil segments, but the contrast may be to help pick them up quickly. ► 6.4/93.6 ___________ “We are Americans …. Together we have resisted the trap of appeasement, cynicism, and isolation that gives temptation to tyrants.” — George H. W. Bush | |||
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If your gonna be a Bear, be a Grizzly. |
Thank you much sir. | |||
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Member |
One would hope that SIG would give you a reticle dimensions chart. I don't see one on line, but maybe the manual has one. Here's an example.... https://www.nightforceoptics.c...t-focal-plane/mil-xt Shows exactly what every dimension is. You can with work probably figure it out on your own, but why would sig not give it... “So in war, the way is to avoid what is strong, and strike at what is weak.” | |||
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Member |
See the 3rd and 4th pages for details on the DEV-L reticle. There's this new fangled thingie called Google search...MRAD DEV-L.... sig reticles | |||
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Member |
Fritz if you dissing on me I have no idea why. I'm not going to bother to search extensively for this kind of question and my search engine didn't get this manual in the first part of the response. Google has serious issues and sometimes my alternative is different than google in specificity. Perhaps you should have posted this to the OP in the beginning of this thread and saved everybody a few posts...This message has been edited. Last edited by: hrcjon, “So in war, the way is to avoid what is strong, and strike at what is weak.” | |||
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If your gonna be a Bear, be a Grizzly. |
Thank you all. | |||
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Member |
I too was curious about this reticle and Sig had a shocking lack of answers for me at the time I called. When you have some time behind it I'd be interested to know your thoughts. | |||
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If your gonna be a Bear, be a Grizzly. |
I would be glad to post some information. Only problem is, been so damned busy with other things for the last few years, I haven't been shooting much. It took me 2 1/2 years just to by good glass for the damned rifle. I will see what I can do though. | |||
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