Looking for some advice here.

I have an LMT Defender 2000 AR with a fixed front sight. I'd like to add a FF handguard, but don't know if it's worth it to modify a perfectly good AR or just buy a new rifle with a FF handguard installed from the factory. I'll admit, I really don't *need* a FF handguard, but it's hard to be tacticool with an olde-timey front sight.

What would you do?

Well, can either go the route of the some of the handguards that leave an opening for the fixed front and extend out past (Troy and Daniel defense each did them), or grind it down and krylon it with high heat grill paint and put on whatever you want. Personally, I'd just cut it down and grind it. Did them on quite a few rifles for customers that had fixed front sights.

What’s your objective?

If you plan to bench-shoot tiny groupings at 200 or 300 yards, a free-float handguard *might* help assuming the rifle itself is up to the task.

If you just want a certain look, there’s no need to free-float. A clamp-around “tacticool” handguard, whether aluminum or polymer, will suffice.

quote:

Originally posted by smpsmp:
Well, can either go the route of the some of the handguards that leave an opening for the fixed front and extend out past (Troy and Daniel defense each did them), or grind it down and krylon it with high heat grill paint and put on whatever you want. Personally, I'd just cut it down and grind it. Did them on quite a few rifles for customers that had fixed front sights.

I'd be looking to remove the front sight to be able to take off the barrel nut and replace it with whatever comes with the handguard (unless I went with something that uses the standard barrel nut like a Troy Alpha).

quote:

Originally posted by striker1:
What’s your objective?

If you plan to bench-shoot tiny groupings at 200 or 300 yards, a free-float handguard *might* help assuming the rifle itself is up to the task.

If you just want a certain look, there’s no need to free-float. A clamp-around “tacticool” handguard, whether aluminum or polymer, will suffice.

I really don't have an objective, other than, like I said, changing things up.

Removal of the front sight isn’t that big of a deal. I’ve done a few. Of course you’ll have to pull the flash hider, also not an issue. If you have a new crush washer (or two) on hand, it’s an easy job.

The way I do it: clamp barrel (*not the receiver*) tightly with thick leather pads. Looking at the muzzle, the flash hider unscrews counter-clockwise. A 3/4” combination wrench with a 2-foot piece of rigid pipe slipped over the box end will remove the hider.

Lay the upper on its side with the FSB fully supported on a block of wood. Using a punch, drive out the two tapered pins.

I usually will spray some oil on the muzzle end of the barrel before trying to slide off the FSB. Wiggle the FSB slightly, don’t kink the gas tube, and slowly work it off.

Depending on what you’re doing next (type/brand of FF rail and low profile gas block), you’ll need to remove the barrel nut and delta ring, and separate the tube from the FSB by driving out the roll pin. It’s a good excuse to order an armorer’s or multi-function wrench, which will have the correct barrel nut wrench and some other handy things for AR work.

I'm pretty much going to the opposite side of striker1. I have removed dozens of front sights. They vary from really easy to 'are you kidding me'. On the bad ones, broken punches, used hydraulic presses, made special tools, jigs, milled parts, etc. etc. Yea eventually I win, but I'm guessing the average joe doesn't have access to my tool kit.
For someone asking about just one, I say either cut the sucker down or preserve the upper and build another one.

quote:

Originally posted by hrcjon:
I'm pretty much going to the opposite side of striker1. I have removed dozens of front sights. They vary from really easy to 'are you kidding me'. On the bad ones, broken punches, used hydraulic presses, made special tools, jigs, milled parts, etc. etc. Yea eventually I win, but I'm guessing the average joe doesn't have access to my tool kit.
For someone asking about just one, I say either cut the sucker down or preserve the upper and build another one.

The first time I tried to remove pins, I used a 1/8” punch. Bad idea.

I learned to used a 1/4” or 5/16” punch and a 3 pounder to drive the pins flush to the FSB, then finish with a 1/8”.

Yes, I actually agree, it can be a pain especially on “properly made” ARs, and in the OP’s case the effort may not be worth it.

I haven’t researched whether there is a free float hand guard, either 1- or 2-piece, that clamps around the barrel nut when the delta ring is still in place. If so, that’s the easiest solution.

EDIT: just noticed this thread on the subject.

Leave the upper alone. It's a freaking LMT! It's good shit!

Buy a BCM upper in your favorite flavor, and slap it on your LMT lower. Done!

Then you'll have a spare LMT upper sitting there. And you'll notice that complete lowers, ready to go, are $129 complete, from PSA. And you'll buy one of those and slap your LMT upper on it, and then you'll have two complete guns.

Wash, rather, repeat, until Black Rifle Disease is afoot, and incurable.

The tapered pins on the front sight can be a real pain. I put some oil on them and let it penetrate overnight. They come out pretty easily the next morning.