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| Like a party in your pants  |
I have a new Savage rifle in 6.5 Creedmoore. I want to start things off right and that will start with breaking in the barrel. My primary purpose is target shooting. What do you do to break in a new barrel. | ||
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Ball Haulin' |
First you must start with the right seasoning... Personally, while I started with a blend specifically for beef, Ive found DilloDust and coarse ground premium black pepper to be my favorite. And with THAT I will let the party begin. (Hold on...you WILL get your answer...  )BTW...half planning on a trip to Buffalo Rock this coming Friday to test some load development for the .308 if youre interested in linking up. -------------------------------------- "There are things we know. There are things we dont know. Then there are the things we dont know that we dont know." | |||
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| Alea iacta est |
I swear you used Lawry's... As for OP's actual question, I used to pay attention to that shit. Never seemed to matter, all the little steps. I've shortcutted it a bit. Shoot 5. Wet patch. Shoot 5. Wet patch. Shoot 10. Clean with copper killer. Then shoot the piss out of it and clean it maybe every 6-700 rounds. LOL | |||
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Certified All Positions |
Barrel break in, is unnecessary. Just shoot it. I say this as someone who has religiously done break in on some expensive rifles, and not done it on some expensive rifles. You're more than welcome to break in a barrel, it won't hurt the gun. But, it's not going to hurt it to not break it in either. Just shoot it. Arc. ______________________________ "Like a bitter weed, I'm a bad seed"- Johnny Cash "I'm a loner, Dottie. A rebel." - Pee Wee Herman Rode hard, put away wet. RIP JHM "You're a junkyard dog." - Lupe Flores. RIP | |||
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Member |
I had a custom bolt rifle built a couple years ago. Spent a bunch of money on it. I've probably put 300-400 rounds through it. I think I'm going to clean it for the first time soon. | |||
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Member |
Everybody likes to break in the barrel on their super expensive, custom, fancy rifle, but they just go and shoot their el cheapo factory rifle. Ironically, the more expensive the rifle, the less likely it needs a break-in because the barrel is higher quality and was likely hand lapped. A new barrel can have tooling marks. In theory, this can increase the rate of copper fouling. The break-in is essentially just fire lapping those tooling marks out. "Breaking in" is just an increased rate of cleaning to prevent the increased rate of copper fouling from building up. Some say to just shoot and enjoy, like Arc is saying. The other extreme says to shoot one, clean, shoot one, clean, for 10 rounds, then do 3 shots and clean, until you aren't seeing any copper. BTW, you should be using a copper solvent, like Benchrest, Sweets, Montana Extreme, or one of the bazillion others out there that smell of ammonia. Because I am a hand loader, I use my own loads and generally use a powder that is copper reducing. This seems to negate the need to worry about much copper accumulation. I have gone out and run 20-30 rounds out of a new barrel, and have almost no copper showing after getting home to clean. If you don't hand load, maybe try some Federal factory ammo to do your break-in. I understand they use Alliant powders, and most of Alliant's (rifle) powders have included copper reducers for some time now. WRT Alliant powders and decoppering agents, see this post from Alliant Powders: http://forum.accurateshooter.c...l26-powders.3861546/
Demand not that events should happen as you wish; but wish them to happen as they do happen, and you will go on well. -Epictetus | |||
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| Alea iacta est |
The idea behind cleaning the copper out every shot is to expose the toolmarks, giving the next bullet the opportunity to wear them down just a little more. In theory. In practice, I just shoot the damn things anymore. I go through barrels too quickly to worry about break-in. I'd spend half my life cleaning. LOL | |||
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| Steel banging beer snob  |
Once upon a time I used to follow a break in procedure. Hell I used to even have my barrels painted. Now I look at barrels as "shoes" for rifles. They are an expendable item on the rifle. Now I simply clean when done on the first few range trips of a new tube. This is the pressure hunt, OCW and fine tuning phase. After the load is dialed in not so much. I've not noticed any difference so I see it as time I could be spending on the loading bench. Happiness is having to climb in your car to change your target. | |||
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Member |
Every time this subject comes up I Get a fond Memory of Dad (R.I.P.10-27-01) My first time buying a NIB Rifle I was researching barrel Break in, And He Laughed at me and Said Just shoot the dam thing and keep it clean. And I pretty much do as my Dad says, OP Thanks for Bring this up and giving me a Sunday Morning tear in the eye, And Making me want to go Shoot DADS Model 70 Winchester | |||
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| Like a party in your pants |
I feel the same way when I take my Grandfathers Winchester Mdl 12 out to the range. Can't beat that feeling sad and happy both at the same time. Sure cleanses the soul. | |||
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| Member |
This is what a local barrel maker/gunsmith has told me. He's been making cut rifle/5R barrels for 40yrs, one of the top barrel makers in the country. Shoot one, clean using a copper cleaner..... until no copper is coming out. Might take 3 rounds might take 17rds... A bore scope shows me Boretech Copper remover and Boretech Carbon remover are excellent products. I believe the days of the ammonia based cleaners are behind us. | |||
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Hop head  |
Clean the barrel, infact clean the gun 100%, scrub that barrel with a good bronze brush and the lube per mfg instructions, then, shoot, shoot shoot, saying to clean first cause I have actually had folks bring back rifles and handguns that 'did not work,, must be broke' when asked if they cleaned them first, esp the bore,,, blank stare,,, 'was i supposed to do that?' https://chandlersfirearms.com/chesterfield-armament/ | |||
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| Alea iacta est |
There are top barrel makers NOT in WI? | |||
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| Ball Haulin' |
WI= Cheese curds, adult toy stores, a Culver's every 10mi and gun barrels. Thinking about it...thats not so bad. Lol -------------------------------------- "There are things we know. There are things we dont know. Then there are the things we dont know that we dont know." | |||
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| Member |
Ya, it's interesting how several barrels makers are in Wisconsin or ties to Wisconsin.... Chanlynn grew up in Wisconsin, trained by Obermeyer in Wisconsin... So you either ice fish or make barrels to past the time in the winter, what else is there to do? | |||
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| Member |
What seems to be some type of "consensus" or perhaps just observation in F-class circles is that stainless steel barrels (not really any other kind in F-class,) seem to get to their best precision at about 150 rounds, give or take and break-in or no-break-in. So what we do is start developing a load right off the bat and then then fine-tune it if needed after that milestone. The 6.5X284 crowd change their barrel at some point north of 1000 rounds. The 7mm do that north of 2,000 to 2,500 rounds and the .308 crowd will do that north of 4,000 rounds. So 150 rounds or so has a greater impact on the hot rods as compared to the slowpokes. So, do whatever break-in procedure pleases you or none at all, but after 100 to 150 rounds, that will be as good as it gets. Barrel treatments have a great impact on that number. | |||
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| Alea iacta est |
Drink? https://www.wpr.org/wisconsin-...-country-study-finds | |||
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| Member |
Drunken cheese heads ice fishing with a thick stainless steel rod. Now there's a picture. | |||
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Alienator |
I just shoot them and clean them after. SIG556 Classic P220 Carry SAS Gen 2 SAO SP2022 9mm German Triple Serial P938 SAS P365 FDE Psalm 118:24 "This is the day which the Lord hath made; we will rejoice and be glad in it" | |||
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crazy heart |
Me too. | |||
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