Let me see if I can describe this in a way that makes sense, because it doesn't make sense. After firing two, at most three, shots, the trigger freezes up. In normal operation, when cocked and the trigger pulled, there is a little bit of slack or creep, then a fairly light pull. If the action (a rotating bolt) is not in battery, the trigger is disconnected and has considerable movement, so I think that eliminates "short-stroking" the action. When the problem occurs, the trigger does not move at all, not even a little. After about 15 seconds, the trigger can be pulled, but with difficulty, and the gun will fire. The "freeze-up", when it happens, has zero movement and feels identical to having the action cocked and the safety engaged. Being a push button in the front of the trigger guard, the safety cannot be engaged inadvertently. Also, the action lock, normally retracted when firing, is extended. The problem cannot be duplicated in dry fire.

Although purchased in 2022, it only has ~30 rounds through it. (Long story.)

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My guess is something is jamming the components of the trigger mechanism that occurs only when firing. Since it has only 30 rounds through it, possibly a metal fragment from the manufacturing process, a piece of brass or plastic shot buffer materiel or a stray piece of plastic from the receiver. FWIW, my Nova Tactical has been run hard without problems.

quote:

Originally posted by YooperSigs:
My guess is something is jamming the components of the trigger mechanism that occurs only when firing.

That makes sense. Can you disassemble and clean the mechanism?

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My guess is something is jamming the components of the trigger mechanism that occurs only when firing. Since it has only 30 rounds through it, possibly a metal fragment from the manufacturing process, a piece of brass or plastic shot buffer materiel or a stray piece of plastic from the receiver.

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That makes sense. Can you disassemble and clean the mechanism?

That makes total sense. I went ahead and broke it down. The trigger group removes as a unit after pushing out two pins. This is normally done by using a little peg on the magazine tube cap. The front pin pushed out easily this way, but the rear pin - next to the trigger - needed some "persuasion", i.e., struck. I couldn't see anything wrong, but took the opportunity to lightly oil everything, as it only had a little bit. I worked over a clean towel just in case anything fell out undetected. I did find a little tiny sliver, maybe a quarter inch long, that did look like black plastic. I have a hard time believing this would have stopped up everything, but it's all I have to go on for now.

I would hesitate to take the trigger unit apart but I guess it could be carefully done. You might try blowing it out with a high pressure cleaning spray, like Gun Scrubber.

I'm trying to remember if I've had the Nova trigger group apart?? I've done M1/M2/M4,SBE1&2.. all similar, nothing particularly difficult about them (if you have any business taking guns apart lol)

Well, I don't know WTF is going on with it. I took it out to the range today. The first magazineful (4+1) was fine, but on the second, the trigger locked up after two shots. After a few seconds I was able to pull it with difficulty and fire. Another magazine load, same thing, locked up after two shots, wait, fire. In other words, no change.

contact beretta I guess?

What type of grip are you using?

If you are using a pull/pull grip with both hands, that could be the cause. The Benelli pump has a
"feature" that prevents the trigger from being pulled if it is even slightly out of position.

Try using a push/pull grip and see if that resolves the issue for you.

I don't understand what this means, nor do I find no reference to any of it in the manual, just to be sure the trigger is returned fully forward so it will reset. I'm sure I'm doing this already.

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Something is binding. Could the stock be smooshing on the trigger group? My mossberg does that and I have to back off the stock screw a full turn before I can remove the trigger group. (Mine operates properly, it’s just hard to remove the trigger due to the stock pressure)

If it's a Nova, the stock and receiver are all one piece.

Super Nova would be two pieces, same stock as the M2.(even then I can't see it)

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I don't understand what this means...

I assume he's talking about the bolt stop not disengaging due to the forend not being far enough forward. (or something being out of spec) There is information out there about them being fussy.

I am not sure if you were referring to my question about the grip, but I can definitely explain the push pull grip that I am referring to.

Instead of pulling back into your shoulder with both your dominant hand and your off hand, try the following:

Pull with your dominant hand, bringing the stock in contact with your shoulder. Then place your off hand in its normal position. Instead of pulling back into your shoulder with the off hand, push out towards your target. This will also reduce your felt recoil, allowing you to increase your ability to return to target and fire faster follow ups.

I had a SuperNova tactical that did the same thing as your are describing it. It drove me nuts trying to diagnose, or replicate it on demand when trying to show others what was happening for me. I had the same random time before the trigger would "unlock" and allow me to shoot. This disappeared completely when I switched to the push/pull method. I disliked it so much, that I sold it.

There's a TFB youtube video with a well-respected shotgun instructor teaching and demonstrating the technique much better than I can.

https://youtu.be/r3ZNJe1f0F8?si=MJlAu3A7bbHKYjNy


I hope this helps.

^^^ OK, I understand the push/pull technique now. But it looks like more of a recoil control technique. Also, the guys in the video - who are younger and fitter than I - are firing semi-auto shotguns with fixed forends.

But I think you might be onto something. I just noticed that with the action cocked and the bolt stop engaged (protruding with red dot visible), there is a little bit of play or slack in both the forend and between the bolt housing and bolt head. With the forend pushed fully forward, the slack in the bolt is taken up and there is no play. There is also a slight difference in trigger feel (lighter pull and less "creepy") with this slack taken out. It makes little difference in dry fire, but under recoil forces, who knows. The next range trip will tell me if we're right ... and whether I want to keep the gun. I really want to like it due to the slick action, rifle aperture sights and the magazine stop device, handy for single-loading shells directly into the chamber.

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You are absolutely correct about it mitigating recoil.

And you are describing exactly what I was feeling when I was dry firing my sample in trying to diagnose what was causing the issue.

I had a standard SuperNova that was purchased before 2010, and I never experienced the same issue. I don't know if they changed something in the bolt, but I couldn't rely on the new tactical version for its intended purpose.

I sold it and used the funds for the Beretta A300 Patrol in the launch Smoked Tiger Stripe version. It has been an incredibly reliable semi with everything from the light target loads to some stout 3 inch slugs.

And with being able to get the A300 Patrol in the grey version for just under 800$, it makes it tough for me to justify the Tactical SuperNova.

I hope it works out for you, as it is a sweet set up. Definitely let me know how it goes under live fire.

I think the biggest hurdle I had with learning this push/pull technique, was just simply figuring how much pressure I needed in the shoulder, as it was a lot less than I thought it would be.

I found 2 big benefits for me with learning the technique. The first is that when I became more proficient, I found it made transitions to other targets unbelievably easier than before.

The second benefit is that it translates to any long gun. I even used it in a PRS competition that had a stage with a standing off hand series of required shots.

OK, fired a box of 25 shells (target/game loads) today. There was a balk on the first magazineful, but when I paid particular, conscious attention to pulling the stock into my shoulder and forcing the forend forward, it functioned normally. Link much Italian machinery (be it cars, motorcycles or even sewing machines), it looks great but is fussy. Surely not all pump-actions are like this.

This is only the second defensive pump shotgun I have owned. The first was a Mossberg 590 almost 35 years ago. I was younger and stronger then, but I don't recall it being fussy about how I held it. Also, the buckshot I handled just fine back then kicks too hard today. Fortunately, I did find some milder and reasonably priced buck, Fiocchi Defense Dynamics, 9 x #1 buck @1250 fps. This gun will not handle the 1¾" shorty shells, but in fairness it wasn't made for them anyway.

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Now, maybe related, maybe not. Back when those guns were newer and became popular in Heavy Metal 3 gun, there was a modification called the "Arvid grind" (IIRC). I did it to my gun.. almost 20 years ago now(?) so I don't remember what was involved, but since I don't remember it, it couldn't have been bad. The purpose of that mod it to let you load the tube without the forend being in the extreme forward position. Since it involves much of the same parts, I'm wondering if it would help.

Not saying it will, but it's something to look into (if you can still find it out there under hundreds of pages of ads. LMAO, quick Google search found ME mentioning it)

quote:

Originally posted by egregore:
OK, fired a box of 25 shells (target/game loads) today. There was a balk on the first magazineful, but when I paid particular, conscious attention to pulling the stock into my shoulder and forcing the forend forward, it functioned normally. Link much Italian machinery (be it cars, motorcycles or even sewing machines), it looks great but is fussy. Surely not all pump-actions are like this.

I'd like to introduce you to the Winchester Model 12.

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Surely not all pump-actions are like this.

There not. Neither the 500 series or the 870 do what you're describing. While I'm sure the Nova is a nice gun, I'd have a hard time depending on something for self defence that's so dependent upon a specific technique to run reliably.

Force may not be really necessary and overstating it a little, but you definitely need to apply enough pressure to the forward stroke to close up that bolt gap.

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... I'd have a hard time depending on something for self defence that's so dependent upon a specific technique to run reliably.

Me too. In a real situation, however unlikely, you can't always depend on this. But replacing it, if I decide to at all, is not a priority. Not only do I have an AR and a PCC for long guns, but my gun budget, with another rifle on the way, is spent for a while. At least I know I can get off the first shot.

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