I bought a .308 (Browning Hells Canyon Speed), matching Talley rings, and a Leupold Vx-6 2-12 scope.

Last weekend a buddy and I took it out to do the barrel break-in and get a rough sight-in. At the end we both confirmed it was consistently low and slightly left.

Yesterday I went to ShootersCalculator.com and plugged in the load data from Hornady's website on the MPBR and ballistic trajectory pages. The results were as follows: 25 yards = .57" low; 50 yards = .22" high; 100 yards = .98" high.

This morning I headed to the range with some hunting ammo and started at the 25 yard line. Still shooting low so I started adjusting upward (2 or 3 shots between adjustments.

I finally ran out of adjustment on the scope and it's still too low.

Anyone have a guess what's happening? The scope has a zero reset controlled by a set-screw which I haven't touched. Will loosening that screw, and setting the dial to a lower number then tightening provide for more internal adjustment? Could I then continue to sight in with my hunting ammo and then adjust the zero reset once the gun is shooting correctly?

Thanks,

Dan

Leave the zero stop loose until zeroed, but that wouldn’t prevent you from going up

I left it as it was in the box and had planned to set to zero once it was sighted in. I'll loosen it and see if anything happens.

Thanks.

I loosened the set screw, set the reset to zero, then tightened the set screw. It allowed the dial to be turned upward but stopped at just over 18 MOA, about where it stopped before.

I'll have to go back to the range to confirm but I'm assuming I now have more internal adjustment on the scope.

My next question please: is it common for a new scope to need so much adjustment for zero? I've already run it up by 18 MOA and it needs a bit more.

Dan

I doubt that you will have any additional upward elevation available. The zero stop keeps it from going down, not up.

I'm not familiar with the rifle you have, but are you sure the front and rear rings are the same?

Doesn't the VX-6 have about 70 MOA of adjustment?

Not saying the scope can’t be defective but it sounds like a mounting issue.

Will the scope track correctly other than not reaching the correct poi?

Rifle is Browning X-Bolt line. Rings are different front and rear but positioned correctly. Yes to 70 MOA adjustment.



Scope moved in the direction when turning the dials both last week and this week. Only turned them up and right last week since it was firing low and left. Didn't try moving left or down.


This morning the up dial stopped turning at just over 18MOA. Since I still needed more up I left the range and posted here. Since my original post I loosened the set screw and set the reset to zero then tightened. Dial started turning but stopped again at just over 18 MOA. Will have to head to range again next week to see if more internal up was gained by the loosen/adjust/tighten of the reset. If that makes sense.

quote:

Originally posted by KBobAries:Since my original post I loosened the set screw and set the reset to zero then tightened. Dial started turning but stopped again at just over 18 MOA. Will have to head to range again next week to see if more internal up was gained by the loosen/adjust/tighten of the reset. If that makes sense.

That's not how any zero stop I've encountered works. It limits the DOWN elevation so that you can quickly find your reference zero (often, but not always 100 yards). You work up from that according to your dope chart. The upper limit is not governed by the zero stop, but by the internal scope mechanism. Once it hits the end, you're done.

With the zero stop loose, can you get the full 70 MOA stop to stop? If not, there is something wrong inside the scope. If you are getting the full range of adjustment, but don't have enough adjustment to zero, the mounts are not aligning the scope properly to the bore.

Often you may have to use shims under the scope rings to get the amount of adjustment you need. There are scope rings on the market that have adjustment capability built in. Try this; reset scope cross hairs to dead center as they were set in factory. Using a large sheet of paper with a target placed in the center fire a shot from sand bags. while still holding dead still with the cross hairs on the aiming point adjust the cross hairs to bullet hole. " Do not let the rifle move while doing this " If done correctly you will be zeroed at what ever yrds you shoot from. 100 yrds is best. Now just raise how much Elev. you want and deal with the windage as needed. It works for me! ( ONE SHOT ZERO )

A relative had a similar issues two years ago with a newer Win Mod 70. He was thinking scope problem, I was thinking mounting issue. In about 99% of these cases, the scope is fine, all the more so with a quality scope.

His was a mounting issue, scope was tested by me, on another gun.

I would go back to square one, maybe even try a different mounting system.

quote:

Originally posted by smithnsig:
Not saying the scope can’t be defective but it sounds like a mounting issue.
- - - - - - - -
Originally posted by MNSIG:
If you are getting the full range of adjustment, but don't have enough adjustment to zero, the mounts are not aligning the scope properly to the bore.

^^I'm betting on these being correct^^

It's been awhile since I've sighted in a Leupold with a zero stop, but the concepts should be similar to other scopes.

First, eliminate the zero stop as a factor. However you loosen/disengage the zero stop mechanism -- do so. Scopes should be sighted in on the gun first, before the zero stop mechanism comes into play.

Determine if the scope has its entire 70 MOA (or whatever) of elevation movement. Bottom out the elevator, dial up to the top. Assuming it's 70 MOA total, dial back to midpoint -- 35 MOA. Assuming your rifle has a flat scope mounting base and there is no cant to your rings, you impact at 100 yards will theoretically be low by the scope-to-bore offset plus your bullet's drop from 0 to 100 yards. A canted base or rings will change this point of impact noticeably.

If you are uncertain that the scope tracks properly, mount the scope on the rifle and clamp the rifle in a solid vise system. This may sound strange, but something as simple as a Black and Decker home bench vise works. Not that I would have any experience here......

If you're at a range, great -- you'll have a longer distance to see if the scope tracks. But even in my basement with maybe 40 feet of space from wall to wall, I can roughly confirm scope tracking. To do this, look through the scope and place a sticky dot on the far wall at the POA of the crosshairs. Now dial up and down all the way. The crosshairs will move, and you can put sticky dots on the top and bottom POA. Calculate the distance between the top & bottom dots, then compare to the distance of the scope to the wall -- it will give you a ballpark if the scope tracks within its advertised range.

Other options:
- Put a different scope on the gun. See where its POA/POI is.
- Mount your Leupold on a different gun. See how it works for dialing and POA/POI.
- If you rings can be swapped front to rear, do so, then see how the Leupold works for dialing and POA/POI at the range. This can determine if there's a canting on the rings, and if they're mounted backwards.

quote:

Originally posted by KBobAries:
Rings are different front and rear

Here's where I'd start.