What would you guys recommend for a WML for a truck rifle? I want something I can trust that would take the abuse, but I don't want to spend surefire money. Maybe a budget of 150 Max?
Id like to stay away from Chinese products but I think that will be impossible with my budget.
May 04, 2022, 02:05 PM
lyman
streamlight,
I have a couple I picked up in estates that work well,
granted, I don't mount them on a firearm, I keep them in my gunshow breifcase with tools and such and use them like a flashlight in dimly lit venues,
they have taken a beating and not failed
https://www.chesterfieldarmament.com/
May 04, 2022, 04:32 PM
RogueJSK
The answer could change depending on the specific type of rifle.
But in general, the Streamlight TLR RM1 and RM2 or the Inforce WML and WMLx are all excellent rifle mounted lights for well under $150 (~$120ish), with a slight edge to the Streamlight in overall quality.
I like my Sreamlight ProTac rail mount HL-X alot. Shown is with a Thorntail mount that really sucks it close to the rail but the pic mount that it comes with is very usable.
Haley Strategic makes some great mounts for them as well.
———————————————— The world's not perfect, but it's not that bad. If we got each other, and that's all we have. I will be your brother, and I'll hold your hand. You should know I'll be there for you!
May 05, 2022, 06:34 AM
walker77
quote:
Originally posted by RogueJSK: The answer could change depending on the specific type of rifle.
It will be going on an Aero AR-10 with a M-Lok rail.
May 05, 2022, 11:01 AM
RogueJSK
Than any of my suggestions would work well on that rifle.
You can stick them on a MLOK rail section, put them on top of the rail in front of the front sight, or if you want to get fancier invest in something like a 45* offset mount to put them on.
With a retail price of $120ish, you still have some money in your $150 budget for a mount or a rail section, if needed.
May 05, 2022, 12:03 PM
DaBigBR
Streamlight HL-X would be my pick. Includes a tape switch, click tailcap, and picatinny mount. Accepts two CR123s or rechargeable 18650s. Uses Scout pattern mounts if you want a better mount.
May 06, 2022, 07:51 AM
walker77
I appreciate the help guys.
I think I'm going with the Inforce. I don't really have a need for a remote switch. And the Inforce is a little cheaper.
May 06, 2022, 09:38 AM
RogueJSK
Good deal. I'm a big fan of the Inforce rifle lights. I have them on several of of my defensive long guns.
The early generation has a couple minor issues (like not being able to toggle between momentary and always-on on some models, and the controls not being as positive) and one major issue (certain runs of lights made with a bad batch of overly brittle polymer were prone to developing cracks in their cases), but Inforce listened to the user complaints and solved them with the Gen 2 lights, and they offer rapid replacement for any older lights affected by the brittle polymer that develop defects in the casing.
I like to put mine on 45* offset mounts, which positions in an area that I can naturally reach with my support hand thumb. The Haley Strategic Thorntail hangs off the rail on top of the handguard, or there are various options for Keymod/MLOK attached 45* rails that can be installed on the side. (You can also just install the Inforce directly on the top tail, and move your BUIS front sight partway down the top rail, if your handguard is long enough to allow such a placement.)
May 06, 2022, 03:31 PM
DaBigBR
I have never seen an Inforce that did not have parasitic drain. My sample size is only a half dozen or so, but includes a couple one cell HSP lights and several two cell WMLx models. They all eat batteries.
I like the form factor of the light, but it has been too much of an issue for me to be willing to keep dealing with. I also wish the rail cross bar at least was metal, but that's more of a shotgun issue.
May 06, 2022, 05:29 PM
RogueJSK
quote:
Originally posted by DaBigBR: I have never seen an Inforce that did not have parasitic drain. My sample size is only a half dozen or so, but includes a couple one cell HSP lights and several two cell WMLx models. They all eat batteries.
Interesting. I have four or five, and have had the oldest ones for 5+ years. None do that. Are all of yours from around the same time period? Gen 1 or Gen 2? Maybe they had a bad batch of circuit boards at one point, kinda like they had a bad batch of polymer early on.
The only lights that I've had consistent parasitic drain issues with were Surefire XC1s. Tried 3 of them, and got tired of it. The first one was the worst; it would drain a battery within ~72 hours. Oh well... Those switches suck anyway, so no great loss. The TLR-7A is a much better compact WML, and cheaper.
quote:
I like the form factor of the light, but it has been too much of an issue for me to be willing to keep dealing with. I also wish the rail cross bar at least was metal, but that's more of a shotgun issue.
If you don't trust the Inforce WML/WMLx due to your past experiences, but want a light with a similar form factor, try the Streamlight TLR RM-1/RM-2. Similar angled thumb activation button. Similar options for smaller sized 1 battery or larger sized 2 battery models. Just still no metal crossbar.
My main gripe with the RM lights is that there's no momentary-only setting, like on the WML/WMLx. Instead it's that dual-mode "press for constant/hold for momentary" type of button. So it's not the best for the "quick snapshot flash" style of momentary WML usage for low light indoor clearing, which is what I'm used to.
