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SCAR 17 owners using Dead Air muzzle devices? Login/Join 
With bad intent
posted
Curious if you use an adapter ring to square off the shoulder or did you mount the device directly on? I know Dead Air makes a 17 specific flashider to match the shoulder but I want to mount a brake.


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Posts: 7933 | Location: One step ahead of you | Registered: February 10, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Can't directly answer but I don't mount anything without using the kba shoulder.
That pretty much cures the issue for everything.


“So in war, the way is to avoid what is strong, and strike at what is weak.”
 
Posts: 11259 | Registered: October 14, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
With bad intent
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Pretty much where I'm at..


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Posts: 7933 | Location: One step ahead of you | Registered: February 10, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Go ahead punk, make my day
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Sorry man, I'm still using at 51T mount on my 17 and really don't see that ever changing.
 
Posts: 45798 | Registered: July 12, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Middle children
of history
Picture of Brett B
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I used the standard thick Silencerco shim to mount my Saker brake. I checked it with a concentric bore rod and it worked perfectly. I have also used the Saker flash hider bottomed directly to the small barrel shoulder and it also worked great. I've never used one of those KBA shoulder adapters but would only try one if I had a bore rod to check it.


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SCAR forend upgrades:
www.regosys.com
www.instagram.com/regosystems/
 
Posts: 2599 | Location: Midwest | Registered: September 06, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
With bad intent
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Well I dont have a bore rod. I did order the KBA ring but now im wondering if I should have invested in a bore rod and and try mounting the brake without the adpater first. PMM recommends the use of the KBA ring so I figured it was GTG.

I also decided to mount my SiCo brake instead as the Hybrid is probbaly a better fit for the 17 than my Omega which is setup with the Keymo to use Dead Air muzzle devices.


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Posts: 7933 | Location: One step ahead of you | Registered: February 10, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
With bad intent
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quote:
Originally posted by RHINOWSO:
Sorry man, I'm still using at 51T mount on my 17 and really don't see that ever changing.


51T is so 2012.


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Posts: 7933 | Location: One step ahead of you | Registered: February 10, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Go ahead punk, make my day
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quote:
Originally posted by WARPIG602:
quote:
Originally posted by RHINOWSO:
Sorry man, I'm still using at 51T mount on my 17 and really don't see that ever changing.


51T is so 2012.
Yeah, but so is my SDN6. I'm done jumping through the hoops and waiting a year for my shit to get ok'ed Wink
 
Posts: 45798 | Registered: July 12, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Middle children
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Picture of Brett B
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This thread may help, I posted some pictures and measurements there a couple years ago:

http://fnforum.net/forums/sbr-...ty-measurements.html


Geissele makes alignment rods that are ready to go. I thought that $75 was pretty steep so here is what I did instead. I ordered several different diameters of 3 foot length precision ground rod from McMaster:

https://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/121/3732/=wjcntf

Of the ones I tried, the 0.2969” diameter, (part number 8893k219) seemed to fit the best:

https://www.mcmaster.com/#8893k219/=wjcoo5

It’s only $5.60 + shipping however I did have to modify it a little bit to work. Basically you have to carefully cut off about .25” from each end without deforming the rod. I just did it gently with a hack saw. McMaster had sheer cut the rod to length so the ends were deformed. Don’t clamp the center of the rod in a vice as it will deform it, only clamp the ends that you will be cutting off and discarding.

After I cut off the ends I spun the rod in a drill and used a file to fillet the ends. I then use 800 grit sand paper while still spinning the rod in my drill to give it a final polish. Since this rod is hardened steel you need to be very careful that it has no burs or deformity before feeding it down your barrel.

Overall it was pretty easy to do though and works perfectly. There is a tiny amount of free play with the rod in the barrel but one size larger was too big and would not fit without me spending some time turning it down some on a lathe so I stayed with the .2969” diameter and it worked great.

So if you are handy you can do this yourself and save quite a bit of money. I haven’t tried one for .223 yet bit I would imagine there is a size for that caliber that works just as well.


-------------------------
SCAR forend upgrades:
www.regosys.com
www.instagram.com/regosystems/
 
Posts: 2599 | Location: Midwest | Registered: September 06, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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