A peel washer is usually more fiddly, but might permit more precise adjustments.
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Posts: 47852 | Location: 10,150 Feet Above Sea Level in Colorado | Registered: April 04, 2002
trim the washer, if it will not go quite far enough (if I am comprehending your post) just take a file or sandpaper and take a bit off, try, repeat as necessary,
Originally posted by lyman: trim the washer, if it will not go quite far enough (if I am comprehending your post) just take a file or sandpaper and take a bit off, try, repeat as necessary,
be sure touch it up finish wise,
This. Or you could also place a piece of sandpaper on a flat working surface and sand a few thousands off the back of the flash hider.
Posts: 14178 | Location: Indiana | Registered: December 04, 2003
I only use FH's that don't need to be timed. Right now I've got a couple shorty Vortex's from Spikes Tactical. They are the length of an A2 and don't look so stupid long as a regular vortex on a 16" carbine barrel.
I actually put them on with copper anti-seize (lock Glock uses at the factory) and hand tightened them. They self-tighten as you fire due to the helix angle of the flutes.
So I would recommend an A1 flash hider and just torque it to spec...
Posts: 5022 | Location: Indiana | Registered: December 28, 2004
Originally posted by Lefty Sig: I only use FH's that don't need to be timed. Right now I've got a couple shorty Vortex's from Spikes Tactical. They are the length of an A2 and don't look so stupid long as a regular vortex on a 16" carbine barrel.
I actually put them on with copper anti-seize (lock Glock uses at the factory) and hand tightened them. They self-tighten as you fire due to the helix angle of the flutes.
So I would recommend an A1 flash hider and just torque it to spec...
I did the exact same thing after fiddling with crush washers. Just twist the Vortex on and fire away!