Just curious what my fellow SF members think about the anti rotation sets?

Most of my ARs have Wilson Combat TTUs dropped in.

Although Wilson says the anti-rotation sets aren’t needed in their trigger groups I thought the point of anti-rotars was for drop in triggers?

Anyway- I’ve got one set installed on the AR I can’t stop putting money into. Kicking around putting them in a few others.

I have them installed on my AR’s, but are they necessary? I don’t believe so. If I recall correctly they are for those that have burst/full auto giggle switches to avoid any potential wear to those with a registered lower.

I believe I have 6 lowers with Wilson TTU single stage triggers. I don't have anti-rotation devices. Combined round count across the lowers is a little more than 25,000 rounds. All my ARs are quite accurate and perfectly reliable. The lowers show no abnormal wear -- meaning they look brand new, except for the outer surfaces scratches from being carried and shot.

I see no need for the anti-rotation sets. Spend your money on something that makes the rifles or you shoot better.

My primary training AR is a Colt LE6920 that I’ve fired nearly 20,000 rounds with (19,897 logged). The hammer and trigger pins are the standard type and as of this date there is no visible wear around the pin holes.

Ive owned and fired a Colt M-16 since the early 80s,no wear or egging the lower.I think they are unnecessary ymmv.

Thanks for the replies!

The theory is to reduce the chance of wearing out the pin holes on basically irreplaceable registered FA lowers.

I'd assume 2% of the people who use them, use them for that.

I use use, for unitized trigger groups. I did have a trigger pin (on a non united trigger) start to walk out during a match once. I know it shouldn't, but it did. I saw it mid stage and pushed it back in.

I have them on all my ARs & admit that they’re simply for the “cool factor”.
I liked the way they looked installed on the AR with the LaRue Tactical trigger so I put them on everything.

Not much point to them.

Completely unnecessary for drop-in "cartridge" triggers. For my 15-22's with CMC triggers, I use their longer 15-22 pins with the screws on the ends.

The AR trigger and hammer are designed for the pins to rotate in the receiver. Geissele specifically says not to use them, and if you do, the tension of the j-spring on the hammer pin will cause the hammer to bind up on the non-rotating pin. If the trigger group is properly installed, the pins will not walk.

Early unitized triggers came with extra long pins held in place by E or C clips. Ugly, not terribly secure, potentially sharp to your fingers.

quote:

If the trigger group is properly installed, the pins will not walk.

Unless they do. Sadly I've never lived in the world were things always work like they're supposed to.

(You know, if everything is right, your car won't break down either.)

quote:

Originally posted by cas:

quote:

If the trigger group is properly installed, the pins will not walk.

Unless they do. Sadly I've never lived in the world were things always work like they're supposed to.

(You know, if everything is right, your car won't break down either.)

Then get CMC anti-walk pins with the screws on the ends. They can still rotate and won't bind the hammer.

I don't use em on my ARs

I bought a Spikes Tactical ST22 years ago that had them. They look cool as hell to me. I don’t know if they do anything at all.

The only place they have merit in my opinion is on a transferable fullauto lower.

Didn't ever think I wanted or needed them.

Then I had a an AR go burst fire on me, big WTF moment. Trigger pins had walked out, this was on Spikes lower.

Ever since I've done anti-rotation pins.

A factory lower? with factory parts only? and a GI spec trigger components?

They're more of a liability than an asset.

None of the high round count full auto ranges that dump tons of rounds through post-sample lowers use them. The military with decades of use on receivers don't use them. The pin holes don't wear out unless you're using a steel punch to drive out your pins, or some other factor adds wear. The notion that these help in high round count full auto is false.

The captured pins don't rotate, which as mentioned can cause added binding, potentially to the point light fouling will prematurely stop the rifle. In the rare event you have a pin break they hide the indications and hold the broken pin halves in place, which CAN lead to damaging the pin bores if the rifle continues to function.

only use I can see is for 80% un-anodized holes

a solution for a very rare problem

quote:

Originally posted by JonDaddy82:
Didn't ever think I wanted or needed them.

Then I had a an AR go burst fire on me, big WTF moment. Trigger pins had walked out, this was on Spikes lower.

Ever since I've done anti-rotation pins.

I second hrcjon's question on that.