Reading elsewhere there is not much love for the Savage precision trigger with the red blade. I was at my FFL yesterday and had the chance to handle a Ruger Precision in 6.5 Creedmoor.

I was surprised that the trigger had a blade which, at least on the surface, seemed much like the Savage.

Upgrades for the Ruger trigger though, do not have blades. Anyone know how this Ruger stock trigger is the same or different from the Savage LRP Rifle.

What are the advantages and disadvantages of these blade triggers. Most upgrades seem to dispense with the blade.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: SIGWolf,

I believe they call it the Ruger Marksman Adjustable Trigger.

SIGWolf, these triggers have a "blade" type safety device in the middle. They effectively act the same way the Glock does. Disconnects the sear and will not allow the gun to fire without first depressing the "blade". They will keep you from "accidentally" firing the gun, but that was never really an issue in the first place if you are keeping your finger out of the trigger guard until you are ready anyway. It is a lawyers trigger, through and through, no matter which manufacturer produced it. This is another case of catering to the lowest common denominator in regards to the function of a gun. Idiot Proofing if you will.

All of the upgrades get rid of it for a reason! I can't stand them and will never consider a gun that has one because of the additional cost to fix the issue. Normally $100-250 to get a drop in replacement, so I just add that to what I am willing to spend and get a better gun all the way around.


Are you looking to buy something soon or just looking and curious? If you are going to buy, what are you going to be looking to do with it? Hunting? PRS? Paper punching/Steel shooting (shits and giggles )? Plenty of guys here that can help with all of those aspects.

Thanks for the information. I was wondering if it was like the Glock Trigger. No one seemed to like it but it wasn't all the blade either I understand now.

Looking to do some precision shooting at which I am largely a novice. I had a Remington 700 LTR with a Bushnell Elite 10X40 for a while.

I'd like to replace with and step up. My range though has only about 300' so it's not really long range.

I've considered one of several, Remington 700 Magpul, Tikka T3x CTR, or perhaps the Remington PCR or Tikka TAC A1 for the higher end, at least for me, the higher end.

I know the more hardcore spend thousands of dollars and often build thier own, but I'm not really at that point.

As for caliber either .308win or 6.5 Creedmoor. This all started with a Savage 12 LRS at my local FFL used for $700. They also have a Savage 10BA Stealth for around $800 used, both in 6.5 Creedmoor. They also have a Ruger Precision rifle in 6.5. So, it got me to thinking about getting back to where I started with the Remington LTR.

I will likely only punch paper and probably not beyond 300' but I might shoot beyond that at some point. I"m thinking a 22" or 24" barrel.

quote:

Originally posted by mutedblade:
They effectively act the same way the Glock does. Disconnects the sear and will not allow the gun to fire without first depressing the "blade".

The blade on the Ruger and similar rifle triggers may disconnect the sear (I know nothing about them), but the tab on the Glock trigger only keeps the trigger from moving far enough to cause a discharge unless it is depressed first. There is no connection between the Glock trigger tab and the sear.

The Ruger bladed trigger works fine for me. When I am ready to break the shot, the "blade" sort of acts like a two-stage trigger. When I feel the blade, I know I have some take-up to reach the main trigger body and from there, is is only a little bit more pressure to release the sear. Timney makes a trigger for this rifle as do others by now I believe.

I suppose it is all what one is used to in terms of equipment.

RMD

quote:

Originally posted by sigfreund:

quote:

Originally posted by mutedblade:
They effectively act the same way the Glock does. Disconnects the sear and will not allow the gun to fire without first depressing the "blade".

The blade on the Ruger and similar rifle triggers may disconnect the sear (I know nothing about them), but the tab on the Glock trigger only keeps the trigger from moving far enough to cause a discharge unless it is depressed first. There is no connection between the Glock trigger tab and the sear.

I stand corrected. Thanks sigfreund You are absolutely right, the Glock tab only allows the trigger to be moved if the tab is depressed.

quote:

Originally posted by SIGWolf:
Thanks for the information. I was wondering if it was like the Glock Trigger. No one seemed to like it but it wasn't all the blade either I understand now.

Looking to do some precision shooting at which I am largely a novice. I had a Remington 700 LTR with a Bushnell Elite 10X40 for a while.

I'd like to replace with and step up. My range though has only about 300' so it's not really long range.

I've considered one of several, Remington 700 Magpul, Tikka T3x CTR, or perhaps the Remington PCR or Tikka TAC A1 for the higher end, at least for me, the higher end.

I know the more hardcore spend thousands of dollars and often build thier own, but I'm not really at that point.

As for caliber either .308win or 6.5 Creedmoor. This all started with a Savage 12 LRS at my local FFL used for $700. They also have a Savage 10BA Stealth for around $800 used, both in 6.5 Creedmoor. They also have a Ruger Precision rifle in 6.5. So, it got me to thinking about getting back to where I started with the Remington LTR.

I will likely only punch paper and probably not beyond 300' but I might shoot beyond that at some point. I"m thinking a 22" or 24" barrel.

For what it's worth, I have a T3X CTR in 6.5 Creedmoor with a 24" barrel and it's easily one of my favorites to shoot. 2 of it's best assets are the action (damn near ball bearing smooth) and the trigger. I changed the trigger spring for $5 and now I have an absolute gem. You'd have to put in an aftermarket Timney, Calvin, Jewel, or other aftermarket trigger to get anything close to how nice it is. I am consistently shooting 1/3 MOA with handloads (1/2-3/4 MOA with Hornady Match ammo) and the barrel really isn't even broken in yet. I have exactly 161 rounds through it from 100 yards to 1250. It makes me look like I know what the hell I am doing

Am I suggesting that you go buy something like that though? NO!!!

If I can offer any advice to you, I'd say that you should get a CZ 455 Tacticool in 22 LR and practice, practice, practice. You'll do just fine with it @ your 100 yard range. These guns are capable of 1/2 MOA or better at 100 yards with match ammo. Focus on the fundamentals. You'll be surprised at how much fun you'll have and how much money you can save by getting into 22 LR vs a centerfire. However, if there is any chance you will be shooting past 100 yards, you might be better served with something in 6.5 CM or 308. Personally, I like the 6.5 better because it has marginally less recoil and is pretty cheap/easy to find now, but 308 is cheaper and easier to find.

Good luck on you choice. It's hard not to buy one of everything

Thanks for the recommendations.

I'm pretty sure Ruger hired the guy that designed the Savage accutrigger.

The “blade” triggers on Rugers and Savages are a form of drop/ inertia safety just like in the Glock.

They allow a lighter (or at least potentially adjustable to lighter) trigger pull at low cost with a stock out of the box trigger while maintaining the extra margin of safety.

You may recall complaints from the late 70’s through the early 2000’s about factory bolt guns coming with overly heavy and rough “lawyer” triggers. The blade trigger is the answer to that while still keeping costs competitive.