I always put a small dab of blue Loctite on scope screws, but only after I'm satisfied with the eye relief and reticle alignment. Then, I'll remove one screw, add the Loctite, and replace it (firm but not gorilla firm) then move on to the next screw.
Posts: 7484 | Location: Idaho | Registered: February 12, 2007
Originally posted by Expert308: ...(firm but not gorilla firm)...
In the case of small screws as used on scope rings, the proper torq (12-14 "#) is almost akin to "gorilla firm".
Using Blue and tightening to "firm" may result in under torq'd rings, and the Locktite isn't going to solve for that (except you'll have loose rings with tight screws).This message has been edited. Last edited by: JRC,
Posts: 1407 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: March 05, 2009
It wasn't until I got an inch pound torque wrench that I realized I had overtightened EVERY screw in both rings and mounts my whole life. Using too much force and loctite they never came loose.
Now I use the wrench and loctite.
-------- After the game, the King and the pawn go into the same box.
Posts: 3911 | Location: Central AZ | Registered: October 26, 2006
I use Vibra-Tite VC-3. This is a rubbery thread locker, not the concrete-like Loctite. You can remove and re-seat screws several times with one application of VC-3. This stuff is great.
Para turned me onto VC-3. Its the best solution that I've tried for stuff like this. I used to use green Loctite (and still do on some things) but this is better. Due to the issues I was having on RMR screws I bought a very accurate inch pound torque wrench and its trivial to put too much torque.
“So in war, the way is to avoid what is strong, and strike at what is weak.”
A few of my buddies even use a very small amount of blue loctite to sort of bed the bases t the receiver to keep water out because they hunt in constantly wet conditions. I’d never heard of that until I picked up a used rifle and saw it.
Posts: 5083 | Location: Alaska | Registered: June 12, 2010