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With all the discussion about long range precision shooting I took the plunge and bought a starter rifle.
I ordered a Savage 10 with the Ashbury precision chassis chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor.
I plan on mounting a Burris xtr 34mm scope.
I have been eye balling other rifles to see if rings or one piece based are favored for this type of rifle. I seem to see more rings used to mount scopes than one piece mounts. It appeares the high mount is required like a AR setup.
For you who are in the know, what is your suggestion for a mount.
 
Posts: 4622 | Location: Chicago, IL, USA: | Registered: November 17, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Two piece. 1.0 hieght will allow your scope/cap to clear. Hard to go wrong with Badger, Nightforce, Seekins. I personally prefer rings that use a nut vs several screws to attach to the rail.

Highly recommend getting a level. Basically two types. Scope mount or rail mount. I prefer the rail for a few reasons, feel it's in my line of sight better/lower, ease of install and can swap from rifle to rifle easy. Have 3 rifles, one level. Several rail mounts available, I have a fixed US Optics.
 
Posts: 3197 | Location: 9860 ft above sea level Colorado | Registered: December 31, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I prefer a one piece. Tried to use one of my AR scopes that is mounted on a LaRue 104. Two high. Went to a 2 piece Luepold with QD levers. My level is installed on my scope.
 
Posts: 605 | Location: DFW Area | Registered: January 12, 2015Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I was contemplating adding a section about mounting scopes to the Riflescope Primer thread just this morning. I'll answer here and expand more on that thread.

For mounting a riflescope on a rifle intended for long range, the important aspect for the height is the comfort of the shooter; they height above bore is not important, you just need to know it and use it in the ballistics program. There is NO real benefit to having the scope mounted as low as possible in a long range rig and it's debatable whether there is any in short range rifles.

What you need to figure out is where your eye will be above the receiver when you are comfortably in your position, and also the shape of your face (like where is that cheekbone?) Getting a good repeatable and comfortable cheekweld is crucial. With an AR, it is recommended that your face have a chipmunk look when looking through the sights. Ok, but with a riflescope it could be a little different. Remember, comfort and repeatability are key.

If your rifle has an adjustable cheekpiece you have a lot more flexibility to adjust it for you, a "Monte Carlo" stock is also a way to get some proper cheekweld for a scope, because usually, factory rifles have stocks with a comb that drops off whereas others have straight combs.

I shoot long range from prone, not seated at a bench. I spend a lot of time looking through the riflescope and the spotting scope, so comfort is key for me. Also, I have a long face and I'm quite tall. Spend some time behind the rifle and find where your eye should be for the most comfort. Have someone measure how high from the comb or the bore line your eye is. With either of those measure figure out how high the centerline of the scope needs to be.

Now that you know where you need the centerline to be, let's make sure it's not too low. On most scopes, the objective bell will be the widest part, at the front of the riflescope. You know the size of the objective lens, add 6mm to get the filter size (something else I'll talk about later,) and usually 2mm more for the OD of the bell. So my 56mm scope has a 62mm filter size and a 64mm OD. This means that the centerline of the scope needs to be above 32mm to clear the receiver. If there are further high points above the receive that will be near the objective bell, you need to account for those.

Dimensions for the rings are usually available at the website of the ring manufacturer, but those will usually be in inches. For a 56mm bell, you need the middle of the right to be greater than 32mm or 1.26inch. Rings will usually come in factors of 1/8 (.125) inch and if you have a Picatinny rail, that distance will be from the top of the rail to the middle of the ring. They can start anywhere from .750or similar and go up from there. So, 1.00 inch then 1.125 then 1.250 and so on. Looking at the Burris optics site in their XTR series, the 34mm rings come in 1.00 and 1.50 inch. Remember this is measure from the top of the rail, but you need to verify this with the vendor.

I hope this helps.
 
Posts: 3398 | Location: Texas | Registered: June 20, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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armored,

I apologize. Posted w/o looking at the chassis, thought it was open front.

With or W/O the rail on the top of the handgaurd?

With needing that high of rings, take a look at the Sphur mounts. Pricey, but very well built.
 
Posts: 3197 | Location: 9860 ft above sea level Colorado | Registered: December 31, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by offgrid:
armored,

I apologize. Posted w/o looking at the chassis, thought it was open front.

With or W/O the rail on the top of the handgaurd?

With needing that high of rings, take a look at the Sphur mounts. Pricey, but very well built.


https://www.savagearms.com/fir...0SavAshburyPrecision
 
Posts: 4622 | Location: Chicago, IL, USA: | Registered: November 17, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I got to thinking further on this.

If you're setting up for long range, you will need to provide a canted mount, 20MOA is good. There are several options here. You could get a canted Picatinny rail to sit on top of the existing rail and then add rings that are lower.

Brownells has a set up that will do that for about $100 plus the rings.

LaRue offers one piece mounts with integrated canted rail. The LT111 is 1.535 inches above the rail (plenty for your setup.) and the LT745 (which I have for my AR-10) places it at 1.5 inches above.

http://www.larue.com/larue-tac...l-obr-qd-scope-mount

ETA: If the Savage rail is already canted, then no need to look for a canted rail setup. It doesn't mention it in the description.
 
Posts: 3398 | Location: Texas | Registered: June 20, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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A very popular (and spendy!) mount in the long range precision-rifle-type community is the Spuhr. They come in a multitude of sizes, both 0 MOA or with a cant (I know for sure 20 MOA, not sure about more).

They cost almost half as much as you spent on that rifle, though.


Me? I like Seekins rings. Work just fine.
 
Posts: 15665 | Location: Location, Location  | Registered: April 09, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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On a .308 semi-automatic have the Nightforce Ultralight one-piece 20 moa mount and am happy with it. I don't plan on taking the scope off my rifle but I do admit that every time I watch an Accuracy 1st video and see them moving scopes around using the LaRue lever mounts, I am a little jealous that I don't have that capability. Why? No good reason.

On a reasonably accurate .223 AR-15 I have a QD Burris PEPR mount that holds a Sightron SIII scope. Compared to the gear NikonUser and offgrid are talking about this is very inexpensive stuff but it works exceedingly well at maintaining sub MOA groups at 100 yards and facilitates reliable hits on steel out to 500 yards.

Henryrifle
 
Posts: 491 | Location: Atlanta | Registered: November 11, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by henryrifle:
On a .308 semi-automatic have the Nightforce Ultralight one-piece 20 moa mount and am happy with it. I don't plan on taking the scope off my rifle but I do admit that every time I watch an Accuracy 1st video and see them moving scopes around using the LaRue lever mounts, I am a little jealous that I don't have that capability. Why? No good reason.

I haven't watched any Accuracy 1st videos, therefore I can't comment here.

I have one of those NF mounts, and I have QD mounts from LaRue and GG&G. They all work pretty well in removing the scope from the rail, putting it back on the rail in the same position, then maintaining a pretty close zero. Not perfect, but pretty close. The QD mounts are of course a little quicker than the NF bolt-on mount.

But in reality, who cares. Moving a scope around on a given gun should be a really rare event, possibly when some serious barrel or action work is required.

Moving a scope from one gun to another might be more common in training courses, where some students don't have much time on their equipment. Say if one scope's turret adjustments are in question, or if the scope was seriously damaged. But this should still be rare, QD won't save all that much time, and the scope change will require a whole new zeroing process.
 
Posts: 7867 | Location: Colorado | Registered: January 26, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Finally on the same page.

Had a XLR chassis few years back. Pictured is a 1.34 height mount/rings. 34mm tube, 56mm end bell on the scope.

 
Posts: 3197 | Location: 9860 ft above sea level Colorado | Registered: December 31, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I can receive a significant discount on Burris and Vortex products.
Not that this would limit my purchase to these two product lines, but saving some money always enters into the decision.
Any thing in these lines that would compete in quality with the brands mentioned above?
 
Posts: 4622 | Location: Chicago, IL, USA: | Registered: November 17, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by armored:
I can receive a significant discount on Burris and Vortex products.
Not that this would limit my purchase to these two product lines, but saving some money always enters into the decision.
Any thing in these lines that would compete in quality with the brands mentioned above?


I would jump on the Vortex rings! Going by the link you posted to the rifle and comparing it to the XLR.... Appears on the Savage the hand guard is lower then the XLR relative to the scope rail. Might be able to use Vortex 1.26 rings.

If your goal is precision, change the rear stock to a adjustable stock. Will be virtually impossible to get a consistent cheek weld/consistent POI with the factory rear stock. Magpul PRS or the XLR Industries rear stocks are two good options.
 
Posts: 3197 | Location: 9860 ft above sea level Colorado | Registered: December 31, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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+1 for the expensive vortex rings. They are made by seekins.
 
Posts: 15665 | Location: Location, Location  | Registered: April 09, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by offgrid:
quote:
Originally posted by armored:
I can receive a significant discount on Burris and Vortex products.
Not that this would limit my purchase to these two product lines, but saving some money always enters into the decision.
Any thing in these lines that would compete in quality with the brands mentioned above?


I would jump on the Vortex rings! Going by the link you posted to the rifle and comparing it to the XLR.... Appears on the Savage the hand guard is lower then the XLR relative to the scope rail. Might be able to use Vortex 1.26 rings.

If your goal is precision, change the rear stock to a adjustable stock. Will be virtually impossible to get a consistent cheek weld/consistent POI with the factory rear stock. Magpul PRS or the XLR Industries rear stocks are two good options.


The rear stock does adjust. The hand grip also adjusts back and forth. The stock also folds.
 
Posts: 4622 | Location: Chicago, IL, USA: | Registered: November 17, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by armored:
I can receive a significant discount on Burris and Vortex products.
Not that this would limit my purchase to these two product lines, but saving some money always enters into the decision.
Any thing in these lines that would compete in quality with the brands mentioned above?


Vortex PST line. Gen II is the most recent scopes. But I heard good things about the Burris XTR.
 
Posts: 605 | Location: DFW Area | Registered: January 12, 2015Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by armored:
I can receive a significant discount on Burris and Vortex products.
Not that this would limit my purchase to these two product lines, but saving some money always enters into the decision.
Any thing in these lines that would compete in quality with the brands mentioned above?


I mentioned the Burris XTR in my earlier post, I would certainly look there first. Also, with their insert technology, you can set up for long range very easily. Look at the Burris XTR Signature ring, item 420211 34mm 1.50 inch.
http://www.burrisoptics.com/mo.../xtr-signature-rings

It comes with the required inserts to set up a cant directly in the rings.
 
Posts: 3398 | Location: Texas | Registered: June 20, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Thread drift, for us new to the subject, what is the "cant" you mention? I can guess but I would rather hear it from NikonUser.
 
Posts: 1253 | Location: Northern Nevada | Registered: December 22, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by ACP1:
Thread drift, for us new to the subject, what is the "cant" you mention? I can guess but I would rather hear it from NikonUser.


Described in the antepenultimate paragraph of:

https://sigforum.com/eve/forums...370004024#7370004024

If more info is desired, just say so.
 
Posts: 3398 | Location: Texas | Registered: June 20, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I like the Aadland mounts. Built like a tank but not a pricey as the Sphur.
 
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