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| Member |
Hey guys. Relatively new to the forum here. This is my first post. Need some help with a k kote gun Never had one before, so I do not know how I should clean the outside of it. Are there any particular things I should avoid so that I don’t damage the finish? I clean all my blued german sigs with small amounts of soapy water on the plastics when they get really grimy. Sometimes i even wipe certain grime off of metal parts with acetone, which I know is not harmful to sig blue but I do not know anything about the k kote. Anyone who can help? Thanks!This message has been edited. Last edited by: MacGyver, Formerly known as tigerbloodwinning | ||
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| I'd rather be hated for who I am than loved for who I am not |
soapy water and acetone!? are you trolling? just use some standard gun scrubber or CLP of any brand. Save the soapy water for glocks  | |||
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Oriental Redneck |
I can vouch for tiger. He is not a troll. Q | |||
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Ammoholic |
I'd be more impressed if you vouched for soapy water and acetone. Welcome to the forum tiger, please find different cleaning products. As suggested gun scrubber and CLP is all you need. Jesse Sic Semper Tyrannis | |||
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| Member |
Soap and water for dishes. Acetone for removing paint. Welcome to the forum. | |||
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| Oriental Redneck |
I use soapy water for wound care. Does that count? Q | |||
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| Oriental Redneck |
Oh yeah, CLP for my K-Kote P228 works fine. Q | |||
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| Member |
Thanks for the welcomes And FYI, acetone is an organic solvent. As far as guns are concerned, It has no effect on anodized aluminum or blued carbon steel. It can however damage some, but not all, plastics. Water....is the safest solvent in existence. If it works, and you dry off after, I don’t understand the flak Formerly known as tigerbloodwinning | |||
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Not really from Vienna |
You come in asking for advice, and get good advice, then get snippy? Good luck here. I agree that acetone is unnecessarily harsh for use on firearms. While it won't hurt blued steel or anodized aluminum it's hard on grips and it will strip all the lubricative/protective oil and grease from your gun. So you'll want to reapply that type of product. I've used boiling hot soapy water to clean corrosive primer and black powder residue from barrels but there are better products for general purpose gun care. But go ahead and keep using acetone and water. No skin off my nose. And welcome aboard. | |||
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| Not really from Vienna |
I apologize for hurting your feelings. | |||
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| Peace through superior firepower  |
Guys, this didn't have to turn out this way. Why did we jump so quickly to the conclusion that our new member is a troll? In all fairness, we have just a couple of members who introduced this into the thread. Everyone else was helpful and polite, so let's be fair to both sides. Our new member's response was not "snippy". He stated what he knows and said he didn't understand the response he was getting. If someone comes here to troll us, it becomes apparent over time- perhaps they are revealed quickly or perhaps it's a while. Either way, it's only a matter of time. So, why the need to jump on someone immediately? If you have suspicions, why not give it some time? You might have the best of intentions, but alienating new members who don't have their bearings is something I don't wish to see again in this forum. If there's any ass-kicking to be done, I'll do it. At the bottom right hand corner of each post is a link to report your concerns about a post to an administrator. Use this tool if you have concerns. I get an email immediately and I read every one of them. Your concerns will be heard, even if I don't act upon them. tigerbloodwinning, please accept my apology for this. If you're an associate of 12131, you are welcome here any time. Let's not do this again, guys. ____________________________________________________ "I am your retribution." - Donald Trump, speech at CPAC, March 4, 2023 | |||
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Member |
I’ve never used Acetone on gun parts, but I use it all the time on fishing reel bearings. Makes quick work of factory gunk in shielded bearings. Never gave me any issues in the 10 plus years I’ve been tuning them. Every polymer framed weapon I’ve ever owned got a dunk in soapy hot water with a tooth brush then rinsed off with hot water and let air dry. Welcome man! | |||
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| Member |
Acetone will work just fine on a lot of parts; the original poster's concern was for a coated surface. Acetone will break down a lot of things, including powder residue and build up above the barrel in a revolver, or the front of a cylinder, very well; it dries clean. Not good for rubber, and it will dissolve or craze certain plastics, but is overall a very safe solvent to use. Another, though less aggressive, is stoddard solvent and mineral spirits. Kroil works really well for deposits that don't want to come free, and it won't hurt your firearm or finishes. I even use kroil to take the sticky residue off used books when removing a price sticker. Works great; a little bit on the surface, scrub it with a fingernail, polish clean with a red rag...doesn't even hurt a glossy cover paper back. | |||
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| I'd rather be hated for who I am than loved for who I am not |
Sorry If I offended you.....guess I didn't realize it came across that harsh. | |||
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| Peace through superior firepower |
I'm not offended. I'm saying we need to give people a chance get their bearings. ____________________________________________________ "I am your retribution." - Donald Trump, speech at CPAC, March 4, 2023 | |||
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| Frequent Denizen of the Twilight Zone  |
I've had a couple of k-kote guns. I didn't treat them any differently than my other firearms. I used Gun Scrubber (polymer safe version) by Casey, Rem oil on the outside to wipe it down. I wouldn't say any of my guns ever got grimy on the outside, nothing that wiping them down with rem oil didn't clean. I also have used FP-10 when it came as a sort of CLP as a general cleaner, looks now like it's changed and all I see is a Lubricant. For the barrels, I used Hoppes 9. I've changed the products I use from time to time. I've used M-Pro 7. Now, I'm using Lucas Oil products, MPro-7, Hoppes 9 and Rem Oil. I've never considered using soap and water on any part of any of my firearms, even on just the outside and never heard of anyone doing that before. I have heard of people using Simple Green as a gun cleaner before. Bottom line, none of the solvents or other products I ever used ever harmed the k-kote finish, or Nitron finish or the Ilafon finish of any of my guns.This message has been edited. Last edited by: SIGWolf, | |||
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Member |
Welcome back tiger. Ultrasonic cleaners typically use soap and water. And I think Carbon Clean is also water soluble. After using either/or water solutions I typically remove any residue water with brake cleaner. Ezzox is then applied to all parts. Typically Butch’s Bore shine to the barrel with patches. Finish off with a Teflon based product patch. Lube rails and barrel. Always worry about rust- thus Ezzox. | |||
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Frangas non Flectes |
Kroil is great stuff and safe for most cleaning uses I can think of with a firearm if there’s any kind of rust or corrosion or such. It made a few of the antique hand-me-downs in my safe look almost new again after decades of neglect prior to my ownership. ______________________________________________ Carthago delenda est | |||
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| Member |
I've used Eezox for the best part of 30 years. Simply the best rust preventative I've ever found and a good lubricant to boot. Outstanding stuff. | |||
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| 7.62mm Crusader |
Didn't acetone make big news years back for causing cancer ? I've used it in parts washers for automotive and machine shops but, I was under the impression it was replaced by a cleaner less harmful to health. I personally never allow water in or on firearms unless I had been hunting in snow country. With all the quality chems on the market intended for cleaning and preserving gun finishes, I cant grasp the use of acetone or water. I would rather clean interior and exterior with a fine lube like Breakfree or something similar. | |||
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