I am a big 1911 fan but recently bought a Sig P220 Legion 10mm SA/DA. Love the pistol, it’s the best built 10mm I’ve seen. I think this pistol will handle whatever I’ll throw at it. I have 4 10mms and have bought and sold others. However the Sig is not without issues. Number one is the trigger. I didn’t expect it to have a 1911 crisp break, but this trigger has what seems to me a lot of creep in SA. It’s not gritty but once the pre-travel is taken up there is probably 1/8” of movement before it breaks. Is this a normal thing for a Sig trigger?
The other issue is the finish. Scratches easily. Just drawing it from a Kydex holster mars the finish, in some places all the way to base metal. Now if it were a 600.00 gun I wouldn’t worry about it but this gun cost almost 3x that.
I called Sig about these issues and was told they are going away from Ion bond and switching to Cerakote. Also they offered to do a trigger job but since I decided to take them up on that offer my voice mails and e-mails have gone un-answered. How is Sig customer service in your experiences?

Does it have the SRT kit installed?

If not, I'd buy an SRT kit and the Grayguns dual adjustable trigger on sale for $35 right now. https://grayguns.com/product/s...able-curved-trigger/

Paired with a 19# mainspring and you will notice a big improvement.

In my experience, SIG Customer Service has been very good. No complaints here.

It does have the SRT.
I’ll give their customer service another call tomorrow.

quote:

Originally posted by Montana10:
It does have the SRT.
I’ll give their customer service another call tomorrow.

Welcome Montana!

If you are a 1911 fan, why didn't you get the SAO version? They have a better trigger and operate in the same manner you are used to.

Welcome to Sig triggers.

Bob

I have never had a bad experience when dealing with SIG customer service.

If you really want a great DA/SA trigger I would suggest using Robert Burke, The SIG Armorer.

I wanted th DA/SA because this is primarily a woods gun and I like having one in the pipe and not having to worry about a safety coming off if I take a header or in a stressful situation, one less thing to think about-just pull point and pull. Just have to keep the two pull actions in the right order haha. Also my 1911 triggers are only 3-3.5 pounds but they break at the same point shot after shot. The Sig breaks at 4.25 to 5 pounds. I like the heavier pull for woods situations but I’d like it to be consistent. Also when I backpack I carry in a shoulder holster with people behind me. I just think it’s a safer setup for that situation.
I’m just learning this setup, I have no experience with Sig. l’m really impressed with the P220/10mm though, quality build.
So, with what I’ve described, is this a normal Sig trigger? I don’t want to sink any more money into this with any kind of kit or anything, if Sig can make it better, that’s my preference. Oh, and thanks for the replies.

I have a feeling you're just too used to series 70 triggers. There is gonna be some resistance and travel after take up, it's the firing pin block being pushed up. Kinda unavoidable, and will be found on just about any modern pistol. I just dry fired all of my DA/SA SIGs and they're all minimal travel. The longest was the SP2022, then the P230. And they're both different triggers than classic SIGs.

Not saying yours isn't longer, just that it just won't be a break like a 1911. You may not be satisfied even after a trigger job.

ETA: as for the finish, yeah most reports are the PVD isn't as durable as most would like. I doubt cerakote will be any better. Personally, I don't care about finish on any of my pistols except two: my anniversary 1911 and my P230 stainless. So those never see holsters and I even remove my ring.

Welcome aboard!
Sig customer service is exceptional and have turned around a problem gun for me in 2 weeks.
If you want a truly great trigger, ship it to Robert Burke, The Sig Armorer. He recently turned my 20 year old W. German P226 trigger into a really great trigger with a good turnaround and reasonable cost. Sigs custom shop does great work too.

Thanks Buddy, Yooper, I looked at the sear/hammer engagement, and can see the sear slide across the hammer sear catch. I think a guy who knows what he’s doing could make that a fairly crisp release. I’ll call Sig and find out what they think. Maybe all it needs is a polish. The pin and trigger bar area which rides across it could definitely use a polish. I’ll report back after I talk to Sig. Cheers

If SIG is offering a free trigger job, you've got nothing to lose. But if you are paying, you're better off paying someone that's known for their top-notch work, like Robert Burke or GrayGuns. Not that SIG is gonna hack-job you, but for $75-100 more, I think you'll get better results. But then, I've never been willing to drop $200-300 to work on triggers that are good enough for me.

I would recommend Robert Burke over the SIG Custom Shop any day. The action enhancement from SIG does not give you a better trigger pull, it’s smoother but still heavy. I just don’t think it’s worth the money you pay.

You’ll be very happy with Robert’s work.

I got in touch with Sig today and explained what my issue was so we decided to send in for a trigger job which basically amounted to a polish because I already have the SRT. There may be something else involved that the rep didn’t know about but that’s how it sounded. Everything was a go right up to the point where he asked for a credit card number Ok not a warranty freebie? Nope $270.00.
So I disassembled the pistol tonight and cleaned everything, polished sear, hammer, trigger bar, trigger bar pin sear pin and hammer pin.
Still has a little creep but breaks at 3.75 pounds consistently on single action and from reset.
I still think this trigger could be a little better but it’s not a target pistol. It’ll do great. It is very easy to disassemble and reassemble and the only tool I needed was needle nose pliers for the decocker lever spring. I’m impressed with the design.
Thanks again for the replies.

The SRT sear was designed to have have more engagement. This is why you feel creep in the trigger pull. You have to be very careful working with that mim SRT sear. Contact Robert Burke.

quote:

Originally posted by Montana10:

The other issue is the finish. Scratches easily. Just drawing it from a Kydex holster mars the finish, in some places all the way to base metal. Now if it were a 600.00 gun I wouldn’t worry about it but this gun cost almost 3x that.
I called Sig about these issues and was told they are going away from Ion bond and switching to Cerakote. Also they offered to do a trigger job but since I decided to take them up on that offer my voice mails and e-mails have gone un-answered. How is Sig customer service in your experiences?

I've been very unimpressed with Sig, who has managed to drop my orders entirely, get them mixed up, send the wrong items, etc. Slow responses, or no responses, incorrect information.

Their turn time on the P320 "upgrades" was fairly good, and the returned pistols have all been good. That's the best customer service I've had there.

The Legion finish, in my opinion, is beyond poor. Each of mine went to silver showing on the pistol with a few holster presentations and wore through quickly from handling. It's a nice looking finish so long as one doesn't actually use it. After that, it's worthless.

That Sig wants 270 to look at a new pistol that should have been their flagship model with an advertised "Bruce Grey Trigger" out of the box, speaks volumes about customer service. It's volumes of negative feedback, unfortunately for Sig.

Sigs break in pretty nicely, I’ve had my 229 for about 11-12 years and I got it used and it has a very nice trigger. But end of the day it’s still a da/sa service pistol. I think you’re just too used to a nice 1911 trigger.
And the legions are just over priced pimp versions that aren’t worth the money honestly.. you can put all same goodies in them yourself and save money. My Nitron slide on my well used 229 that I carried exclusively for at least 9 of the years I’ve owned it looks perfect to this day.

I dont know all the geometry of fire control parts in Sig pistols but, this I do know, from experience, one needs to do, so called polishing of critical parts, such as sear engagement surfaces, in a correct manner to maintain the weapons safety features. I'll offer some advice to the OP concerning home pistol craft. If you dont know about the criticals of parts geometry and, you see over half the posts in your topic referring to a professional like Robert Burke, you might consider the Members giving you the best advice you could get. Robert Burke has a serious reputation among the Members here. I'd be willing to bet Sig does not have a Armoror so qualified. Food for thought sir.

I agree you don’t want to fool around with the geometry of a sear/hammer interface. Like I posted above, I polished the parts - didn’t remove metal or change any angles, that’s for someone with the knowledge, experience and tools to do that kind of job. What I did was what should have been done at the factory, and it accomplished exactly what I wanted, made the break consistent. I’ll admit I’m spoiled by good 1911 triggers, and they’ve made me really picky about triggers on all my weapons, the other thing they’ve done is foster real enjoyment of working on guns. I just finished rebuilding a 1911 10mm Commander Bobtail, replaced and hand fitted everything but the sear and disconnector. Love working on guns. When I retire my wife won’t have to worry about me being in her way. Haha.
Anyway, this Sig P220 is a good pistol and it won’t be a safe queen. I wanted a rugged reliable heavy hitting 10mm woods gun and this is it. I only wish I’d not paid for a Legion, really not worth the extra money. The platform is great, easy to work on, everything fits well and is built to handle 10mm power.
So thanks for the welcome to the forum seems like a good knowledge base here.

The trigger as described sounds about right, at least as what's typical. Our P220 Legions (both 45AUTO and 10mm) both exhibited that kind of creep beyond the stack point. Same with our P226 and P229 Legion DA/SAs when they come through the shop. I've NEVER understood all the fawning some have shown over these guns. GrayGuns may have been involved with the development of these guns and trigger actions but it truly does not seem that any of that has translated into product, or with the guys who actually slap these things together.

Frankly it's only annoying when you stage the trigger but it's also sort of typical of P-SIGs in general, especially when a gun has the SRT installed. But I'm not at all sure you'll find relief. Indeed SIG CS can be maddening; if you can finally get them to respond again, I suppose allowing them to assess and tweak the gun couldn't hurt. But I strongly suspect that they'll find that the trigger is 'within acceptable tolerance' and will do nothing to improve it.

Sending the gun to The SIG Armorer (Robert Burke) has been the de facto response if what you want is something close to perfection. I know GrayGuns has long had a great reputation, and they would be another alternative over the factory to sort out what's ailing your gun. They were supposed to have had a hand in developing the Legions (as well as other recent SIG pistols), but to me any of that effort hasn't shown particularly well in the actual product that makes it to store display cases. It takes time, effort and patience to do it right, and quite honestly I don't believe that SIG's own people have that sort of commitment, not when they have to virtually PUMP these guns out in the face of production quotas; 'Mastershop' these are not. Both outside resources are extra cost, but IMHO unavoidable because you're unlikely to get the kind of relief you're seeking out of SIG themselves.

As for their take on the PVD finish; I rightly can't say what ails it since I don't personally own any of the Legions (nor do I particularly want one, quite bluntly). So I have no ownership experience with them. But I DO KNOW that we have to be more careful when handling and showing them at the shop. Any gun finish can be damaged, but the Legion PVD seems exceptionally intolerant to rougher/careless handling. IMHO, nothing was inherently wrong with the old tried-n-true Nitron finish, except color of course ("Why yessir, you can have it in any color...as long as it's black").