I went to replace the battery on my Romeo1 reddot, and found the 1632 battery was stuck to the bottom of the battery lid that holds the battery in the Romeo1. I checked my second Romeo1, and the same thing is happening with it. I wasn't able to remove either battery off the lid. They are stuck as if glued. I have changed both batteries before with no problems. The batteries have been in the reddots for no more than six months.
Would greatly appreciate advice on how to get the batteries off the lids, and how to not let this happened again. Thanks!
"Ride to the sound of the big guns."
Posts: 7215 | Location: South Georgia | Registered: May 13, 2006
If they are decent name brand batteries, I’d send the units back under warranty.
If they are third world batteriesI would try a little alcohol soak to see if you can loosen up/free whatever is adhering them to the cover.
Either way aid call Sig and ask what they think.
I’m not familiar with that reddot, but if it’s truly a cover, as in just a flat interior surface and no spring that applies pressure to the battery, then you could simply scrape the battery off with a small flat blade screwdriver or chisel. But you don’t want to bend the cover. And I’d want to know why they got stuck.
Most likely the batteries leaked a little and it’s just sticky or corroded. Possibly there was a lack of coating on the cover and some sort of electrolysis took place.
Take a small knife and pry battery out. Look at the contact for battery acid if any clean off. Most CR batters are decent quality , they usually last quite a while (car remotes good several years). Make sure you don't cross thread those Sig covers as they are super hard to open again. Chris
[QUOTE]Originally posted by arfmel: All the 1632 batteries I have looked at are lithium and they supposedly don’t leak acid, because they don’t have acid in them. /QUOTE]
Sorry should have said corrosion, I have seen that with watches that use CRs. Could be the environment they are subject to. Chris
I assume they are made to be very tight in red dots. They have to resist breaking electrical contact under recoil and other shock else the red dot turns off especially with newer electronics where they don't turn on unless you press a micro switch or something. If the battery breaks the circuit because it's too loose after recoil or something, then the electronics defaults to the off state and you have to press the button to turn on again even if the battery makes contact again.
Posts: 4370 | Location: Boise, ID USA | Registered: February 14, 2003
Originally posted by RedneckRob: Put a drop of a good Super Glue type on the battery then place a used rifle case on it, base down with fired primer still in place, clamp it and let dry the full drying time. Then you can remove it. Worked for me.
YMMV
Posts: 128 | Location: Mississippi | Registered: February 29, 2012
Originally posted by Xer0: I assume they are made to be very tight in red dots. They have to resist breaking electrical contact under recoil and other shock else the red dot turns off especially with newer electronics where they don't turn on unless you press a micro switch or something. If the battery breaks the circuit because it's too loose after recoil or something, then the electronics defaults to the off state and you have to press the button to turn on again even if the battery makes contact again.
Seems logical to me. Certainly beats the dot flickering behavior that Type I RMRs sometimes exhibit.
