Flork's Lubrication Recommendation

September 30, 2013, 03:55 PM

Was successfully using a light viscosity oil on my purpose built 1911. Had a red dot sight installed and was collecting lube splatter on the lens. Changed to a heavier viscosity oil (both wilson Combat products) - problem solved.
When you have seen one combination that works - you have seen one combination that works!

October 07, 2013, 03:27 PM

krycis

Just took a dip for some Slide Glide Red, we'll see how it shoots...because it smells like a dirty old man.

November 03, 2013, 11:21 AM

RogB

Sorry if this question has already been posted, but why is it that in the Sig manuals that come with the gun (at least for my 239 and 226) nothing is said about grease. Just oil for lube.

I use Militec and I follow flork's guidelines, just wondering why Sig is silent on grease.

One other thing, I know the bore should be cleaned from chamber end not muzzle, but if you're using a brush as Sig recommends, should you remove it before pulling it back out?

November 11, 2013, 06:08 AM

hk_shootr

Oil is good, but grease is better.

I have been using SlideGlide and Gunbutter for years.

January 04, 2014, 07:19 PM

I started using fire clean. Should grease be added on top of it on the slide rails?

January 05, 2014, 08:17 AM

Brewer3401

quote:
Originally posted by RogB:
Sorry if this question has already been posted, but why is it that in the Sig manuals that come with the gun (at least for my 239 and 226) nothing is said about grease. Just oil for lube.

I use Militec and I follow flork's guidelines, just wondering why Sig is silent on grease.

Didn't your guns come with a little tube of TW25B ?

The Sig site video only mentions oil - so why do they ship guns with the grease ?

One other thing, I know the bore should be cleaned from chamber end not muzzle, but if you're using a brush as Sig recommends, should you remove it before pulling it back out?

January 18, 2014, 01:20 AM

1boredguy

quote:
Originally posted by campbed:
quote:
Originally posted by ptmccain:
...

I use Ballistol and TW25 on all my weapons.

....

We think alike. I was a Ballistol/TW25B guy until I ran out of TW25B. Now I run Ballistol/Lubriplate SFL-0. SFL-0 is food grade, $1 per oz, and is the SAME as TW25B as far as I can tell. Did I mention it is $1 per oz, and you can lick your fingers?

YMMV.

I clean the recoil spring with CLP lightly, I've never greased it.

Oil the bendy bits, Grease the rubby bits, with wahtever makes you happy in both cases. Ignore the interwebs and their religious wars.

Thanks for the tip on SFL0, non toxic is a high priority for me and at that price its worth trying.

January 18, 2014, 07:47 AM

4859

Wet and sticky. Run then autos that way.

January 19, 2014, 08:32 AM

Eric357

Ok I'm going to have t go through and read this whole thread. I've read the first few pages. I bought my Sig 229 last spring. Started off using Shooters choice all weather (its red) and in a syringe. Last couple of range times I decided to use the tw25 that came with the gun. After reading the first few pages it sounds like I might be better off going back to the shooters choice. I guess I have a lot of reading to do this afternoon.

January 20, 2014, 11:49 AM

bobward1

Well, I just spent an afternoon reading through this thread as well. A lot of different opinions to consider.

I just bought a Sig P238 with the black nitron slide and alloy frame, have not fired it yet, but have given it a complete FrogLube treatment.

I have a P229 Elite Stainless & P232 Stainless on order.

Now, my question is, after reading all these posts, should I continue with the FrogLube on all my Sigs or use the TW25B grease that comes with the guns?

Sounds like most people are really lathering the grease on the Sig rails. Will the standard Froglube treatment provide an adequate amount of rail lubrication, or, do I need to add grease on top of the FrogLube?

After applying the FrogLube to a heated gun and allowing it to sit for 15 minutes and then doing a wipe-down, there is no visible FL left on the rails. Sounds like most people are saying that you need to have visible grease on the Sig rails. So, I am inclined to think that I need to spread some TW25B (or some other synthetic grease) on the rails after doing the FL treatment.

Am I going down the wrong path here?

January 20, 2014, 12:06 PM

alwitz

About the only really wrong lube practice is to mix lubes. Pick what you like, change it if you want, experiment forever - but DO NOT USE TWO DIFFERENT LUBES AT THE SAME TIME ON THE SAME PARTS. sorry for shouting.

January 20, 2014, 12:16 PM

Brewer3401

quote:
Originally posted by alwitz:
About the only really wrong lube practice is to mix lubes. Pick what you like, change it if you want, experiment forever - but DO NOT USE TWO DIFFERENT LUBES AT THE SAME TIME ON THE SAME PARTS. sorry for shouting.

Is a light coat of oil (CLP) on the slide and rails OK if I am using TW25B grease on them ?

January 20, 2014, 12:51 PM

bobward1

Yes, I was aware of the comments about using 2 different lubes on the same gun. Since TW25B is a synthetic, non-petroleum mixture, I thought it might co-exist with FrogLube without any bad consequences.

So if I stick with FrogLube, which is already on the P238, would it be recommended to add an extra, visible coating of FL on the rails?

January 20, 2014, 12:56 PM

Deqlyn

In case anyone is wondering thought I'd report been using EEZOX only my 239 228 cleaned them yesterday and report no galling or any wear on the rails.

January 20, 2014, 03:13 PM

alwitz

I would not. FrogLube is a "complete" product that should not have anything applied over it, even if it is another synthetic. If you like the results with it then apply a little each time you use the gun (notice I said use rather than clean)

January 22, 2014, 02:24 AM

TXLe

Damn...20 years of shooting and I been lubing my guns all wrong.

January 24, 2014, 02:34 PM

xraysur

To follow up on the discussion about the Lubriplate 105 white grease, I called Lubriplate and talked to a guy on their technical support phone line. He said that the two different part numbers for the 10 ounce (5/8 of a pound) tubes of grease are the same product. They are just named differently and therefore have different part numbers:

C-105 Outboard Gear L0034-092
C-105 Motor Assembly L0034-094

I was able to find a 10 oz. tube of the Motor Assembly Grease in stock, on the shelf at my local NAPA auto parts store. It is white in color. The NAPA part number is 765-2651 and it says Lubriplate No. 105 on the tube.

I figure that $7.99 bought me enough grease for several lifetimes. The tube is fairly large – about 9” long. The pictures I saw of the tube did not give me a good sense of how big the tube actually is.

February 15, 2014, 10:17 AM

Eric357

quote:
Originally posted by Brewer3401:
quote:
Originally posted by alwitz:
About the only really wrong lube practice is to mix lubes. Pick what you like, change it if you want, experiment forever - but DO NOT USE TWO DIFFERENT LUBES AT THE SAME TIME ON THE SAME PARTS. sorry for shouting.

Is a light coat of oil (CLP) on the slide and rails OK if I am using TW25B grease on them ?

That's a good question. I started using CLP for cleaning after buying my Sig. I honestly never thought about a problem arising from using 2 different lubes.

February 27, 2014, 12:26 PM

HawkeyeJohn

I've recently purchased a used P226 (a nice KA from iAMMO) which arrived in a pretty clean/dry condition... Should I detail strip this baby to be sure it's properly lubed?

I've read through Flork's lubrication thread several times (and have searched with as many keywords as I can think of) and have yet to find information on the benefits/drawbacks of - a little drop/dab of oil or grease here and there. (I know-not on the firing pin).

trickedtrix posted this question on the lube thread back in Aug '09 - "Flork, I'd love to hear your advice for oil points on a SIG - generally I put a drop of break-free on the hammer and wipe it around the entire mechanism with a q-tip. Any other areas you recommend?"

As far as I know - Flork never responded.

Does anyone put additional oil or grease on the parts of the pistol exposed by just field stripping and removing the grips?

What about new pistols?

This message has been edited. Last edited by: HawkeyeJohn,

February 28, 2014, 11:04 AM

DBS

I am not an expert by any stretch, but I can tell what I do with used Sigs when I buy them.

I do a full detail-strip and then hit everything with Gun Scrubber for a deep cleaning and degreasing.

Then I use my fingers to rub a thin coat of grease on all the internals, taking care to leave the firing pin, firing pin channel, and breech face dry.

Then I reassemble the frame and hit it inside and out with CLP, then wipe away excess.

Next I reassemble the slide and hit it all over with CLP, wiping away the excess. Again, avoid the firing pin, FP channel, and breech face.

Next I coat the inside of the barrel in a light coat of oil, and the outside of the barrel in a light coat of grease.

Finally, I grease the rails per Flork's recommendations and reassemble the gun.

After a final wipedown, I'm good to go.

The end result is that essentially every surface of every part on the gun is lubed with either grease, oil, or CLP, except for the FP, FP channel, and breech face.

Again , I am not a pro so take my advice for what it's worth.