I am looking at an S&W revolver for sale at an online dealer. This is a "Performance Center 442 Pro."

My question: What does the Performance Center Pro model offer, as opposted to a plain old 442?

IIRC it's cut for moon clips, and doesn't have a lock. I could be wrong, though.

ETA: Is this the one? https://www.smith-wesson.com/product/j-frame-178041

Give the Lipsey's 442UC a look, too, if you haven't already:

https://www.lipseys.com/itemdetail?itemno=SM13996

This message has been edited. Last edited by: 92fstech,

A PRO Series firearm is not actually a Performance Center offering

A Performance Center revolver is manufactured start to finish in the PC. Among other things the CNC code is specific to the PC. The PC replaces tooling more often to keep the tolerances tighter and the offer things that you just can't get from the production of S&W. This also makes them far more expensive than production revolvers

Both Smith and Wesson and their various distributors wanted a firearm that had some Performance Center features but without the big performance center cost. The solution was to take firearms made on the production side of Smith and Wesson and give them 2 or 3 or 4 Performance Center touch

So pro series firearms can be purchased for just a small price more than their total production counterparts

A quick look at the Smith and Wesson factory website and the complete product description and listing for the 442 pro is available Poduct code 178041 442 Pro web page



I see that 92fstech edited his post as I was typing mine

quote:

Originally posted by 92fstech:

IIRC it's cut for moon clips, and doesn't have a lock. I could be wrong, though.

ETA: Is this the one? https://www.smith-wesson.com/product/j-frame-178041

Give the Lipsey's 442UC a look, too, if you haven't already:

https://www.lipseys.com/itemdetail?itemno=SM13996

I should have been more specific. The one that I'm looking at is used, $505 shipped. The Lipsey that you mention is half again as much; I really don't want get into it for more than $750, plus FFL fee.

Is the Pro trigger any better than the standard 442? When we were shopping for a revolver for my wife, we found the standard 442 trigger to be heavier, and not as smooth, as the Ruger LCR.

My buddy just bought a 442 Pro. Trigger was horrible--very heavy. I replaced it with a Wilson spring kit--much better, still in the 7-8 lb pull. The original spring was way too stiff and long on the 442 Pro.

Another option is to just buy a "regular" 442 & install an Apex spring kit. IMO, it really slicks up the trigger pull & saves you the extra price of a PC 442 & gives you a much better action.

quote:

Originally posted by Delta-3:
Another option is to just buy a "regular" 442 & install an Apex spring kit. IMO, it really slicks up the trigger pull & saves you the extra price of a PC 442 & gives you a much better action.

How hard is this kit to install for someone who generally does no "work" on firearms?

quote:

Originally posted by redwood25:

quote:

Originally posted by Delta-3:
Another option is to just buy a "regular" 442 & install an Apex spring kit. IMO, it really slicks up the trigger pull & saves you the extra price of a PC 442 & gives you a much better action.

How hard is this kit to install for someone who generally does no "work" on firearms?

I did it on my 642. If I can do it, anyone can.

quote:

Originally posted by redwood25:

quote:

Originally posted by Delta-3:
Another option is to just buy a "regular" 442 & install an Apex spring kit. IMO, it really slicks up the trigger pull & saves you the extra price of a PC 442 & gives you a much better action.

How hard is this kit to install for someone who generally does no "work" on firearms?

It’s not hard, but you will need to buy 2 tools to do the job. Brownells sells a S&W revolver screw driver kit which has the exact right sized flat head bits for removing the side plate. Buy that so you minimize the chance of boogering up the slotted screws. You will also need the rebound slide tool that they sell to get the slide in and out of the frame. The first time you do one, it will be a total PITA and will take you a few tries to learn how to compress the spring to get it in/out. The tool makes it a lot easier.

There is a short video on YouTube that Apex put out that shows the whole process. Watch that 2-3 times and then decide if you wanna do the job. I’ve done 5-6 of them now and it’s not hard, as long as you’re careful and take your time. The first time you open up a revolver can be a little daunting but if I can do it, anyone can.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jjOg8AnG_R4

Be very careful working with the rebound spring on an aluminum J-Frame. Do NOT pull the trigger with the side plate off and the springs installed. If you do you risk bending the pins and destroying your revolver. Also, don't pry the side plate off...tap the starboard side of the grip frame with a plastic screwdriver handle or delrin hammer and it'll pop off.

quote:

Is the Pro trigger any better than the standard 442? When we were shopping for a revolver for my wife, we found the standard 442 trigger to be heavier, and not as smooth, as the Ruger LCR.

I don't have a 442 Pro, but my 640 Pro has the best trigger of any J-Frame I've ever owned. That said, it still has nothing on an LCR for weight and smoothness. I hate the double-click false reset of the LCR trigger, but I've gotta admit that the pull on them is incredibly smooth and light for a DA revolver.

Stormin & 92fstech pretty much covered it. The rebound tool from Brownells I got, the "ears" were to short to go around the pin & fully compress the rebound spring. I used a Dremel to deepen the slot but the right sized flathead screwdriver can work easily too.
There are a few vids online to show you how. I knew nothing about revolvers when I did my first one on a 642. I've done 5 more since & it gets easier.
Like the others If I can do it, anyone can.

https://www.smith-wesson.com/p...nce-center-model-642.

good luck finding one used..

I ended up putting a wilson spring kit in mine and it is close to the LCR