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I run trains!![]() |
Had a primer only squib round (my fault, loaded a small batch before I had the powder check on the new-to-me Dillon) in my VP9. Bullet got farther into the rifling than I’d expected and as such didn’t want to pop out the chamber end after trying to drive it out from the crown end with a brass rod (hollow point round that started to deform). As a result flipped it around and was able to drive the bullet about half way down the barrel before it locked up tight. No amount of force would move it. Ended up putting it into a jig today on the drill press and drilling out the center of the round. Figured I’d give the jacket somewhere to collapse into once I started trying to drive it out. This time the dowel I was using (bigger diameter than the brass rod) started deforming throught the now drilled-out bullet and eventually broke off inside the barrel. Where the heck do I go from here? Success always occurs in private, and failure in full view. Complacency sucks… | ||
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my existence, while grotesque and incomprehensible to you, saves lives |
Get a bigger hammer. ***************************** "I don't own the night, I only operate a small franchise" - Author unknown | |||
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Member |
correct diameter rod and hit it harder than you expect. Not a dowel a brass rod. “So in war, the way is to avoid what is strong, and strike at what is weak.” | |||
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For real?![]() |
The barrel is tougher than you think. Hit it with a bigger hammer and stronger rod. Not minority enough! | |||
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semi-reformed sailor![]() |
bigger hammer bigger "dowel"-read that as a piece of drill rod or a 8mm brass rod don't be afraid to really WHACK it "Violence, naked force, has settled more issues in history than has any other factor.” Robert A. Heinlein “You may beat me, but you will never win.” sigmonkey-2020 “A single round of buckshot to the torso almost always results in an immediate change of behavior.” Chris Baker | |||
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Member |
Driving it back down the barrel in the original direction of travel was the first mistake (after the squib). Soak it in kroil from each end for a day. Heat the barrel. Drive it back down the barrel using the brass rod (proper size) and adequate force. Use a mini-sledge or 48 oz hammer. Don't tap. Drive it out. | |||
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Raptorman![]() |
Heat the barrel until the lead melts. The 400 or so degrees it takes to melt lead won't harm the temper of the barrel. ____________________________ Eeewwww, don't touch it! Here, poke at it with this stick. | |||
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Avoiding slam fires ![]() |
Lead melts at over 600 degrees,For me I would soak in krowl over night and drift out with proper size drift pin. I have that equipment most don't. Go the ace type store and buy the proper drift pin,seems like a good investment for those pesky things that pop up from time to time with us reloaders. | |||
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Not really from Vienna![]() |
You know this now, but don’t try to use a cleaning rod or little wood dowel to drive a stuck bullet out of a barrel. You need something close to bore diameter, preferably a brass or bronze rod. | |||
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I run trains!![]() |
Yep, I thought I was good as I was using a 5/16" dowel, but it proved to just be too soft. Success always occurs in private, and failure in full view. Complacency sucks… | |||
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Member |
I had the same thing happen to me a couple of months ago. First I locked the barrel in my bench vice and sprayed WD40 down the barrel and let it soak in over night. The next day I pounded it with a wood dowel, not too long about 4" so it doesn't snap.....it took about 5 good whacks and came out. | |||
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Member![]() |
Don't feel too bad...some of us made that same mistake. I had it in a Sig P229. Use a brass rod...I still have mine from that boo boo. Oh, I quit reloading from that point on. Ruining a $700 handgun isn't worth saving a buck or two. I drove it back toward the breech. Luckily for me, it didn't require that hard of a hit. | |||
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Member |
My squic rod is an old Dillon aluminum primer pick up tube. I use a good heavy hammer. I wouldn't try to drill it anymore. The bullet may start to turn along with the bit and leave light rings in the barrel. | |||
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Doing what I want, When I want, If I want! ![]() |
Soak it with Kroil before continuing. Then correct size rod and bigger hammer, or a hydraulic press. ******************************************** "On the other side of fear you will always find freedom" | |||
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Member |
Agree, soak in Kroil. Fill it up, a tall skinny olive jar works or you can cork the barrel. Maybe a day, better three. Use the largest brass rod that will go down the bore - or tape a steel rod to protect the rifling and keep it centered. Support it the best you can. Since it is an automatic and you can get the barrel out, I would try clamping it in a vise with the muzzle against the screw housing. Padded to keep from scarring the barrel, but not padded a lot. | |||
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Member |
What's the update? Is it out and all ok? | |||
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I run trains!![]() |
It’s finally out. I got a dedicated 9mm squib rod and drove the bullet to the crown, however once there because it was a hollowpoint the lead was pushed out but the jacket got stuck in the barrel. Being narrower than the inside diameter of the barrel the squib rod wouldn’t push it out. Soaking in Kroil didn’t work, jacket was still stuck against the rifling. Finally got it free after heating it up with a torch; allowed me to pry the jacket away from the barrel enough that the rod could grab it and was able to drive it out. Success always occurs in private, and failure in full view. Complacency sucks… | |||
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Member |
If one knows for absolute sure it was a squib and not an oversized bullet, would it work to load a second case (NO BULLET), top it with a cotton plug and fire it through? I’ve never done it. Just asking. | |||
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teacher of history![]() |
I got a .45acp stuck years ago and made a tool for future use. I got a stout piece of dowel that almost filled the barrel. I stuck a .44 mag case over the other end and pounded it on. I can now stick the plain end into the barrel and beat on the case head to drive squibs out. I have only had one since I made the tool. | |||
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