I have a Sig C3 CT. I took it to use at a shooting school. I was told my grip was not right. When I changed grips to the one I was taught, I could not always get the grip safety to release.

One instructor told me that I could have the grip safety worked over by a gunsmith so that it would work with the new grip.
I never had a problem using the gun with the way I gripped it before and I could shoot it accurately.
I wonder if it is that Crimson Trace grips that are causing the problem?

While in the class, I switched guns, and started using my Sig 1911 Traditional Match Elite.
I could use the grip they taught me on that gun, but cannot shoot that gun as accurately for some reason, regardless of how much alike they are.
So, should I have the safety work done or just sell the gun that I really like and am pretty good with?

In my humble opinion, if you were more accurate and/or more comfortable with your previous grip, go back to it. Use what works for you, not what a particular instructor favors. Try what they teach you, but only keep what works for you. I went to a shooting school several years ago that taught a particular grip, and I tried it and it worked better for me. Then more recently I went back to that same school and they no longer teach that particular grip, but I still use it 'cause it works for me. Now they teach a basic version of it, but not as specific. Their main point is to use isometric tension on the back strap with your strong hand and on the front strap with your weak hand (on your strong hand fingers) with no pressure on the sides of the grip. But however you achieve that is up to you, so I still use the hitchhiking thumb grip that gets me there. (Both thumbs stick straight up and to the left; it looks unorthodox, but it works for me!)

Anyway, you paid them to teach you, but it's up to you to figure out what works best for you. If you can attend different schools you can learn all kinds of variations or techniques, then use what you like and works best.

Just my two pennies...

You are probably right. This grip puts your strong hand thumb on the top of the safety and the support hand thumb on top of the slide release.
I usually had my thumb under the safety and had no problem with the grip safety or hitting my target.
I was trying to see if the new grip would actually be better for me. I have not shot the gun I actually used for the class very often so, I am not sure if it helped me.

I've never used laser grips on my 1911's, so I can't give you anything definitive there. Your specific problem could obviously be the laser grips, change in grip style or a combination.

But WAIT...there's more! Here comes the free Ginsu knife! The following info is based on my own experience and what I've seen with other shooters in my group. Regardless of the cause, this may solve the problem. I do my own light gunsmithing and have always "tuned" the grip safeties if they didn't meet my specs.

1) All the internal nose of the grip safety does is block the full rearward travel of the trigger to release the sear/hammer. If the nose does not FULLY disengage from the trigger bow the gun obviously won't fire.

2) The distance the grip safety (GS) must be pressed forward to allow the gun to fire is highly variable, especially on production guns. Generally, the more expensive semi-custom and custom are properly tuned. However, I did have friend with a high-end semi-custom that had to send his back to have the GS nose properly tuned/adjusted.

3) What does "tuned" mean? My own preference is for the GS to disengage at about 20-25% forward movement. If I don't have a perfect grip, the gun still goes bang. Some guns require nearly full forward movement of the GS before it disengages. Hence, I tune mine for an early release, while still retaining the original safety function. The angled nose of the GS (internal) is carefully stoned to provide the desired disengagement. It's not difficult, but it is time consuming, since it's a stone, install, try process. Each time you stone a little and repeat until you are satisfied. Note that if you screw it up, you'll end up with a non-functioning GS.

4) The problems started when the 1911 industry began "improving the original 1911 design. Extended thumb safety requires thumb high shooting position. Undercutting the rear trigger guard and raising the grip position of the GS aggravated the problem. Depending on the mechanical specifics, the shooter's hand size and the shooting grip, failure to fully disengage the GS can occur. That is one reason the "bump" appeared on the GS...to assist in positive actuation of the GS. Details aside, what can happen is a void is created in the palm below the thumb of the shooting hand. It then fails to provide enough contact and forward pressure on the GS. End of history lesson.

I started shooting 1911's in 1962. Personally, I've always used the standard (old style) thumb safety and my thumb is placed under it when firing.

5) Tuning the GS will usually solve most of these problems. With an unloaded gun, check the forward travel required of the GS for disengagement to occur. Gun on flat surface with thumb safety side up and hammer cocked. Hold gun dowm with left hand and use same for trigger release. Use thumb of left hand SLOWLY push bottom of GS. Press trigger while moving GS forward, repeat a few times. You'll get a rough idea of how much forward movement is required. I've seen 1911's where the GS had to be FULLY depressed before it would release - no desirable.

This may sound complicated, but it's easily rectified. Have the gunsmith tune the GS nose for a proper earlier release. If the GS has too much forward travel required to disengage, any change in physical grips or your shooting grip could cause the problem.

Wow..you have shot 1911s for a while, you diagnosed the problem exactly. There is a void between the top of the grip safety and my palm.
My brother bought a used C3 and the grip safety does not have to move much at all to release it. I suspect that someone reworked that.
I was concerned about finding a good gunsmith that will not ruin my pistol. Thanks for the input by you guys.

10-4