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I kind of bought a few revolvers. I want to put a U notch rear and tritium front on the 610 I picked up. Does anyone have experience with D&L products? I'm gonna reach out to them as I can't find a price anywhere on their site. They look well made though. Is there a clear winner in moon clips? I'm seeing speedbeez are considerably cheaper than TK customs. If I plan on carrying the 610 occasionally, is the lock delete a "must"? Does it have any drawbacks for operation or getting debris in the action? OP: Local pawn shop has a nice little M36 for 469$ sticker price. But no box or anything. Looks pretty good compared to online sites. But how much does the box and what not add to these pistols? 10%? I’m kind of got a hankering for some revolvers lately.This message has been edited. Last edited by: OttoSig, 10 years to retirement! Just waiting! | ||
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I bought a M19 S&W that was very minty. The seller intially said he had the original box and tools. Just before I was to pick it up, he called me and said he couldn't find the box. We agreed on $60 deduction for the box. More rare guns would probably be considerably more. M36 is fairly common so 50-60 IMO. Good luck. JEREMIAH 33:3 | |||
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36 is a rather common model, so besides the box, there are other questions Round or square butt? 2 or 3 inch barrel? Original grips numbered to gun? Flat latch cylinder release? The box is nice to have, but really only matters I would say in older guns ( mid 70’s or older) If buying to carry and shoot, not a big difference. Not a bargain, but not a bad price either | |||
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Lost, but making good time |
Just saw this - sorry! Captain brought up the questions I have. For me, I'd say a box for a Chief's Special or Model 36 made in 50's, 60's, and early 70's generally adds about $75 to $100 to the value of the package. Vapor paper, cleaning tools, and manual would add another $50. But that is only if the gun was in 96% or better condition and I wanted a prime example to fill a hole in my collection. If the gun was in "shooter" condition to be shot and carried, the box wouldn't be worth that much to me. The Model 36 is right next to the Model 10 as being the most common and prolific S&W made. Finding one in pristine condition with the box and docs isn't as rare as finding one of the less common models. Bye for a while, guard the fort. - My Dad | |||
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Hop head ![]() |
If you have doubts on these prices, go look at what tools, empty boxes etc sell for on eBay, https://chandlersfirearms.com/chesterfield-armament/ | |||
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Lost, but making good time |
No kiddin. I actually have two shelves in one of my safes for just my really valuable boxes. I used to keep them in big totes until I started accumulating more and realized some of them were worth more than some of the guns in my safe. The same goes for history letters. They are $75 to $100 a pop and would be very expensive to replace. I have them in a safe too! Bye for a while, guard the fort. - My Dad | |||
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Just mobilize it |
I’d get it. Maybe talk them down a bit more if you can. I just found beautiful example of a 1965 M36 flat latch at a gun show a few months back. Did not have a box or any papers though the near new condition was enough for me to pick it up. Gave 5 bills for it so I feel I got a decent deal. With the new release of the classic no-lock versions (I believe they retail for $850 ish), the older ones may go a little lower than they have been as unless one could find a nice vintage example, might as well just grab a new one now. Here’s mine that I’ve posted a short while back as well. Grips are not original though in excellent condition like the rest of the revolver. ![]() | |||
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Page late and a dollar short |
Maybe a little high, I’d try for the $400 range if it was me but I wouldn’t walk away if push came to shove. Two years ago I bought a ‘59 Flat latch with matching grips but my price being an store employee shouldn’t be used as a guide. I waffled a couple of months later about 6” 66-1 for a week. When I finally decided to buy it was gone, a friend bought it. Well I finally ended up with it about six months later, it cost me a hundred dollars over my employee price, he bought it at full retail. I considered it the prognosticator tax. -------------------------------------—————— ————————--Ignorance is a powerful tool if applied at the right time, even, usually, surpassing knowledge(E.J.Potter, A.K.A. The Michigan Madman) | |||
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more questions in OP. 10 years to retirement! Just waiting! | |||
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Prepared for the Worst, Providing the Best![]() |
I can only speak to the lock question...I don't imagine a steel gun shooting 10mm would have any issues with the lock. Typically the problems are brought on by heavy recoil in the airweights. A steel N-Frame is a heavy gun, and the 10mm isn't particularly stout compared to most magnum revolver cartridges. I would shoot it some to make sure before I started carrying it, but I probably wouldn't feel the need to remove it on that gun. Unless, of course, you want to. | |||
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Spiritually Imperfect![]() |
Otto- You will love the 610. I shot a Steel Challenge match two weeks ago using Rimz polymer moon clips for the first time (in my 929), and let me say that they were simply awesome. https://ezmoonclip.com/page_7.htm | |||
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No experience with D&L, but I did find some Meprolight night sights for my 686 and my GP100 and put them on both 357s. They are 2-3 years old now and are still brightly glowing. | |||
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